2011 GT vert rebuild

Discussion in '2011+ Mustang GT 5.0L Tech' started by LikeabossTM, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    So two ish years ago I picked up a wrecked 2014 GT vert (see here - http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2266476) from a salvage seller for a song. Between then and now I've pulled the drive train and stored other incidentals that would need to be out of the way, while I reviewed and planned my repair options, keeping my eyes peeled for a cheap full front end donor of the most correct vintage (11-14) - easier said than found up here in the great white north.

    Fast-forward to today (through those efforts along with the many other priorities that vied for my attention) and I recently found myself in a position to buy a near-perfect donor match that my neighbor spied on a local buy-and-sell. So I bought it (see here - http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2400738).

    The donor is a 2011 vandalized write-off, that a fella bought just for the engine, trans, shifter, rad, and exhaust, leaving everything else for the next buyer (he's going with a FRPP controls pack in his Galaxy). Roof and interior were trashed, and the rear bumper cover was smashed, along with very slight RR frame damage. There's also some paint keying on all four sides and a cracked windshield. The rest of the glass, body and unibody is straight, intact, and complete.

    Needless to say, THIS clean-titled GT 'vert has now become the project, while the 2014 has been relegated to donor status.

    I'm not much of a documenter, but I'll use this thread to share progress, trials, and tribulations. There are a bunch of key details, along with decisions to make, that I hope to chat out with whoever is interested in tagging along. I value all input/suggestions...

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ValK

    ValK Junior Member

    Posts:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2017
    Location:
    Calgary, AB
    Good luck with the build. Sub'd for sure. What are you going to be swapping over from the other car to the new red vert?
     
  3. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Thanks, I'll need it.

    Here's the tentative plan, with notes. From the 2014 bring over the;

    -Interior
    -Dash (what to do about newer cluster functionality or leave 2011 cluster in)
    -Roof (swap control harness?)
    -Rear bumper and cover (and maybe RR frame section)
    -Sequential lights (swap harness/SJB?)
    -Engine (and injector/vvt harness)
    -Auto trans (swap battery/O2/trans harness?)
    -EPAS (no high speed shimmy potential)
    -Shifter (what to do about the manual button shift logic?)
    -Steering column/wheel (what to do about CC and other newer button logic?)
    -Windshield and mirror (what to do about dimming/microphone wiring differences)

    All I really need to buy other than some incidentals like a few TTY bolts and fluids, etc. is a trans mount bracket (cracked, will probably have to go to Ford for it) and a rad/fan (have a tentative line on this from a 2007 w/55,000 km).

    The 2014 PCM is smashed, leaving me with the 2011 PCM. The 2014 SJB is suspect due to impact, though I have the 2011 SJB.

    I'd like to end up with as much of the 2014 controls/functionality as possible. I'm not quite sure how to accomplish this, but I think it'll include swapping some or all of the harnesses or pinouts, and, getting ahold of a VCMII and IDS license and reprogramming the 2011 PCM with 2014 firmware and strategy, and then matching up the cluster and SJB to that with as-built/PATS info, while maintaining the 2011 PCM/cluster mileage.

    It's all the component/wiring/logic matching that I'm most concerned with. I think I'll first get the car running without codes with all 2011 stuff other than eng/trans, with the dash lightly installed. Then I'll really get into the nitty gritty of making the rest of the 2014 magic come to life, hopefully without ruining anything (ie bricking electronics). From what I've briefly read, the requisite reprogramming is possible.
     
  4. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Put the degreaser to the 2011 engine bay tonight.

    [​IMG]

    2014 for comparison... eheh

    [​IMG]

    Need to convert the rust spots on the k-member and friends, and then swap out the EPAS next.
     
  5. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    2011 EPAS out

    [​IMG]

    Rust converter/primer on

    [​IMG]

    After that dries I'll hit it with Tremclad and throw the 2014 EPAS in. That calls for new TTY bolts, if I recall correctly.
     
  6. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Taped and Tremclad sprayed

    [​IMG]

    Pick up some TTYs, and the rad/fan this afternoon. Might pull the 2011 dash wiring and compare with the 2014 if I'm feeling plucky.
     
  7. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Ooohh treats from amazon today. Time to retire the leaky old $29 mastercraft 2 ton.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. '14StangGT

    '14StangGT forum member

    Posts:
    213
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2016
    Location:
    Haslett, MI
    Good luck on your project
     
  9. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Dropped the EPAS in. Dry fit the replacement rad and fan, looks good, especially at $100 for both. Pulled the 2011 cracked windshield using a $30 (Canadian peso) kit from princess auto (instruction manual sitting on the driver headlamp).

    It was probably a little easier on my own with a vert versus what it likely would have been with a coupe. Glad I had one to practice technique on before I pull the good 2014 glass to swap back in.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Macman45

    Macman45 Resident Geriatric

    Posts:
    715
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2012
    Location:
    ATL, GA / NorCal
    2013+ Sequential taillights are plug and play with 2010-2012, just bring the attached harness (that's built into the lights). No need to mess with the SJB since both models had factory sequential.

    As for the mirror, I *think* lower optioned mustangs with plain mirrors without microphone or dimming or other electronics still has the proper harness stashed up in the roof liner, so yank that down and it might be plug and play.

     
  11. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Thanks for the tips, I'll add that to my notes. Much appreciated.
     
  12. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Vaccumed and wiped down the pans today. Rust checked and primed a few spots that had been rubbed/scratched down to bare metal.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Sky Render

    Sky Render Stig's Retarded Cousin

    Posts:
    8,723
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2011
    Location:
    Frederick, MD
    You might need a 2011 SJB for use with a 2011 PCM; I'm not sure about this. I know there was a change from the '12-13 model years with the addition of color screens on the dash, etc.
     
  14. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Yeah, or a reprogram of one or the other, if possible. I'll start off with the 2011 modules, which are all good and match up, and go from there.
     
  15. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Installed some more clean 2014 parts over the last couple of days - carpet, parking brake, centre console bracket, and rear seatbelts. Positioned the speakers in anticipation of the front belts swaps next.

    Also swapped out the ripped up roof for the mint roof. The workshop manual has a couple of links embedded that provide you with a removal video, and then an installation video. It was nice to have the visuals along with some audio direction. The roof assembly brackets have some intricate order of bolt operations, and there's a specific spot and maximum compression amount where you ratchet strap a bow in order to get the roof up and out between the quarter panel sheet metal.

    It was nice to be able to play, pause, next step, pause, repeat...

    Requisite pic

    [​IMG]

    As an aside, I think I'll mount the old roof back into the 2014 body and use it as a jig to fab up a FG hard top. But that'll be a future project after this car's complete.
     
  16. '14StangGT

    '14StangGT forum member

    Posts:
    213
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2016
    Location:
    Haslett, MI
    I'm curious

    Is there a way to adjust the top if its not lined up exactly as it seats on top of the windshield ?
     
  17. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    There is, you can loosen 5 assembly bracket bolts on either side, and after doing so you can slide either/both sides forward/backward, with about 3/4" travel overall.

    You can also spray the raised and latched top with water and let it sit in the sun for a couple of hours, if it's just a new tight top that needs a slight fabric stretch.
     
  18. LikeabossTM

    LikeabossTM forum member

    Posts:
    109
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2015
    Took a quick look at the dash harnesses last night. There definitely appears to be some differences between the 2014 and the 2011. I'll have to do a pin by pin compare with the diagrams to see what's what.

    I'm tempted to just sister the 2011 harness in alongside the 2014 harness that's already in there, and then cut out the one I don't need after all is said and done. I suspect there's not quite enough room in the stock run location for this plan.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'll have to do the same compare soon with the engine bay harnesses, I'd rather use each 2014 harness from the get-go, if possible, without Frankenstein'ing anything unless necessary.
     
  19. '14StangGT

    '14StangGT forum member

    Posts:
    213
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2016
    Location:
    Haslett, MI
    thank you
     
  20. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

    Posts:
    748
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Hahaha, because I'm a cheapskate, I lived with one of those cheapo auto parts store jacks for quite a few years, then when I finally opened up my wallet to get a decent one like the one you got, I was pissed at myself for struggling with the cheapo for sooo long, hahaha!
     

Share This Page