A couple well known vendors not to trust: Kenny Brown and Fluidyne

[tjm73]

They're converting the A6 into a 4-speed? I thought the A6 was plenty stout enough as it was?

They have a new 4R200 gearset that's a 4-speed, fits inside the 6R80's case, and it takes over 1,000 hp with easy drivability

Never heard of this setup before....

https://pbhperformance.com/shop/pbh-4r200-hub-6r80-transmission/

I can't figure out how this works. Interesting though.

 

[Gabe]

Never heard of this setup before....

Spend more time on Facebook, lol.

Seriously though, they advertise the fuck out of it, on every GT500-related page they can find.

 

[Pentalab]

I do have the Ford Racing Radiator Fan, but you as well as a couple others have made me aware of the backpressure thing and I have to get some shrouding back around the radiator.

This all comes back to my original start of this thread not trusting these vendors telling you this will bolt right in and improve things greatly.

Yeah, it will... 'bolt right in'... with the caveat that you have to do a ton of supporting mods / chopping / hacking /etc...
to make the damned thing... 'bolt right in'.

One thing I can't do right now, and that's measure eng oil temps...nor eng oil pressure. I highly suspect for road course duty, that the eng oil temps will exceed 300 deg F. Folks with the 11+ cars that run em on a road course
(and use a manual tranny) typ report eng oil temps > 300 F. Eng oil coolers are not cheap, however they come in a wide variety of widths, depths and heights.. they also have to handle the pressure..as well as high temps. 100% synthetic oil is good for > 300 F..barely. Semi synthetic + plane dino oil is done by 250 F. For a few 15-20 min track sessions, 100% synthetic should be ok, it can always be changed more often.

You might want to focus on how a custom shrouding job can be done, if at all possible, to increase your total airflow.
Depending on how much room you have in there, one or more of the B+M auto tranny coolers would do the trick. The mishimoto tranny cooler you currently have I suspect is gonna be fairly thick, including the fan. One of the bigger B+M units, like way bigger than what I use, in height and width.... and 1.5" deep would work. Dunno how many BTU the oem ford tranny cooler is rated at, but assume at least 10,000, based on it's surface area. You need another 10-13 K btu on top of that. The B+M model 70266 is 11 x 8 x 1.5 and is rated at 20,500 BTU. This would work. http://www.bmracing.com/products/70...tings-plate-type-black/?mk=&yr=&md=&smd=&eng=

The B+ M model 70274 is 11 x 11 x 1.5 and is rated at 29,200 BTU. Now this definitely would solve your tranny cooling issues hands down, bar none. http://www.bmracing.com/products/70...tings-plate-type-black/?mk=&yr=&md=&smd=&eng=

Flat out, blower on, you shouldn't be seeing tranny temps > 175-180 F.... IF you use the appropriate cooler. 20-30 K BTU is the window. Now whether that comes from one big cooler, or 2 x smaller ones is a moot point. In your application, one of the 2 x larger ones I listed above would do the job..... provided you have the room. Two of the slim line 3/4" thick ones, will also do the trick. 13,300 BTU..EACH, 26,600 BTU total. http://www.bmracing.com/products/70...13000-btu-rating-black/?mk=&yr=&md=&smd=&eng= But these are 11 x 8.5" tall x 3/4". 2 x stacked = 17". So you have some options to play with. Their bar + plate designs are far more efficient than the older tube + fin config. You don't need a tranny cooler with a fan, what you need is a bigger surface area, or more specific, total core volume. But the caveat is.. it's gotta fit. At speed, you will have a ton of air flowing through it, no fan equipped cooler required.

 

[tjm73]

Spend more time on Facebook, lol.

Seriously though, they advertise the fuck out of it, on every GT500-related page they can find.

I dislike Facebook very much.

 

[Gabe]

I dislike Facebook very much.

That's totally understandable.
It's super evil.
But it's an awesome advertising tool for so many businesses.

 

[Sky Render]

I dislike Facebook very much.

See, TJM and I do agree sometimes!

 

[tjm73]

See, TJM and I do agree sometimes!

Usually I do agree with lots of what you say. It's all good.

 

[Pentalab]

OP, which TB do you have on there... the oem twin 55mm.... or the FRPP twin 62mm ?

 

[JJ427R]

OP, which TB do you have on there... the oem twin 55mm.... or the FRPP twin 62mm ?

I have the oem 55. And I know your going to ask how I did it so here we go... We cut a couple inches off the end of my original Roush inlet and stuck it inside the larger 11-14 inlet to get it to fit on the smaller throttle body. Creating the PCV connector was the tricky part. The original one if I remember is a plastic fitting, and the 11-14 is metal (or vise verse) We had to carefully cut one end off the plastic fitting, and then pressed the metal one into the end of it carefully without breaking it.. and walla, the correct PCV. Wish I could post you pics of it. I'm willing to bet I've got one of the few if not only 2010's with this CAI...

 

[Pentalab]

I have the oem 55. And I know your going to ask how I did it so here we go... We cut a couple inches off the end of my original Roush inlet and stuck it inside the larger 11-14 inlet to get it to fit on the smaller throttle body. Creating the PCV connector was the tricky part. The original one if I remember is a plastic fitting, and the 11-14 is metal (or vise verse) We had to carefully cut one end off the plastic fitting, and then pressed the metal one into the end of it carefully without breaking it.. and walla, the correct PCV. Wish I could post you pics of it. I'm willing to bet I've got one of the few if not only 2010's with this CAI...

Points noted. The 2010 oem airbox flows way more than the 05-09 airbox. The 2010 oem airbox also flows more than the 11+ oem airbox. 800 cfm vs 760 cfm. That's with a ford oem paper filter. Put a K+N filter into the oem 2010 airbox..and flow is even higher, 960-976 cfm. At 1.5 cfm per crank HP, the 2010 airbox and K+N filter should be good for 650 crank HP. Knowing that, I could not see any point in replacing the oem airbox.

On the Roush 2010 540H, with it's twin 60mm TB, and TVS-2300..and oem 2010 airbox and paper filter, the airbox is maxed out after re-tuning. Huge HP gains across the eng rpm range... until you get to the top end.. that's where the old and new rwhp curves converge..... the eng has run outa air. The easy fix for that was use the K+N filter..and also chop out the vanes in the oem airbox lid.

On another note, VMP sells the TVS-1900 with it's high flow elbow for the 05-10 Roush M90's. It's a drop in swap, designed to fit the oem Roush manifold. On the 2010 M90, the crossover for the fuel rails is BEHIND the M90 blower.
( 05-09 cars, cross over is over the top of the M90). On a 2010 M90 car, the VMP TVS-1900 is an easy swap, just remove the 6 x bolts that bolt the M90 to manifold. Same fead belt used too. Beauty is, then the quick change blower pulleys can be used, or swapped. They come in 85-82-79-75-72-69-66-63 MM. The 85+ 82 mm use the oem 75mm idler pulley ( directly below the blower snout). The 79 and down pulleys require the larger diam 90 mm idler ( same 90mm you already have with your 2.49 pulley setup). The 66+63 mm pulleys require a 8 rib fead belt.

Even the largest 85mm pulley puts out more power than your 2.49....and does it with less boost. Blower discharge temps, pre IC, are way down. The TVS-1900 is way more eff vs the M90, uses way less hp to drive it. I'd be leery of the 5R55S auto tranny though, it's not a strong unit to begin with. The rods in the 4.6 are like pretzel sticks, I don't trust them.

The 09/10 M90 cars got the press on 2.55 pulley originally, if you wanted a smaller M90 pulley ( + mating 90 mm idler). Later came the 2.49 press on pulley for the 09/10. (The 05-08 cars got the 2.57 keyed pulley, then later on, the keyed 2.49 pulley).

Another option is LT's. M90 + Lt's + twin 62mm TB, vanes chopped from airbox lid..and a 93 tune = 460 rwhp on a manual.

My car is just a street car these days. The twin 62 mm + LT's + 94 tune made a huge increase in TQ. Previously I had the twin 62mm installed + 94 tune.... and not much difference really. Once the LT's went in, game changer. The increase in TQ across the entire range was substantial. Ran a hair too lean, so one final tweak on the 94 tune solved that minor issue. It's plenty adequate for my purposes.

 

[JJ427R]

I purchased this CAI when they first came out and was told it would fit the 55 tb, which was not the case (go figure huh) so we had to improvise. I had also purchased the JDM Engineering 427R upgrade kit at the same time. Jim Jr at JDM told me the stock air box is actually really efficient and I probably don't need to change it, but I liked the look of the Roush intake under the hood. With that open box and 2.49 pulley I can literally hear the air getting sucked in.

I initially started to build my car for the strip, but then became hooked on track days, so now I do a bit of both, more road course than strip, but still a street car, not designated race car, does not get trailered to the track. I' did the upgrade just after my 3/36 warranty ended and I'm just about to turn over 50,000 miles with no problems other than a sway bar bushing and the overheating, which is a problem I've recently created myself.... tranny is still hanging in there but that is my next biggest concern. Since I started track days 7 years ago I've gone thru 9 sets of brake pads, 1 pair front rotors and on my 6th round of tires, not counting a pair of drag radials.... I currently use Ferodo Racing DS2500 pads and Frozen Rotors, which I swear by. Tires I've tried several, my favorites were the Dunlop SP Sport MAXX I original had, I'm now trying Mickey Thompson Street Comps. 275/35/20 all 4 corners. Stoptech 4 piston calipers on the front with stock on the rear

 

[Sky Render]

I'm curious how you're doing with road courses and automatic transmissions. How are you shifting? If you're going into a corner and start to brake, won't the transmission immediately upshift?

 

[JJ427R]

I'm curious how you're doing with road courses and automatic transmissions. How are you shifting? If you're going into a corner and start to brake, won't the transmission immediately upshift?

Because I'm Paraplegic I drive with hand controls It's pretty tough for me to try to shift, my left hand is controlling my throttle/brake and my right hand is on the wheel, so I just leave it in drive with overdrive turned off. I have had my shift points modified in my tune so it shifts more like a manual. It's a lot harder on my brakes though not having that downshifting capability. I need paddleshifts....
Here is video of me at Road America, you don't really see my left hand but will give you an idea of how I do it.

 

[Sky Render]

That's awesome! What gauge pod is that?

Also, I wonder if you could get a tune that only shifts right before redline, sort of like how cars behave in racing games like Gran Turismo when you set them to auto? You could then switch tunes at the track.

 

[JJ427R]

That's awesome! What gauge pod is that?

Also, I wonder if you could get a tune that only shifts right before redline, sort of like how cars behave in racing games like Gran Turismo when you set them to auto? You could then switch tunes at the track.

Thanks.. It's the Ford Racing Boss 302 pod with Autometer Phantom II Gauges, Engine Temp, Voltage, Trans Temp. Thought about doing a separate tune for the track but what I have seems to work pretty well so I just go with that. If I got more competitive and actually went into say NASA TT then I would probably do it.

 

[JJ427R]

Interesting turn of events, this morning I received an email from Kenny Brown Performance allowing me to schedule a 15 minute tech session ($75 dollar value, HUH?) with Kenny to answer questions about my mustang. So I guess I get to ask him why his stuff isn't working...... this should be interesting.... tomorrow at 10:00 eastern....

Anyone else interested
http://campaign.r20.constantcontact...37334&ca=049792f5-b72a-43e5-b4b9-e5f7407b27a0

 

[RocketcarX]

Not be be a smart ass but the supercharger is over sped and we’re upset because a radiator attached to the engine is not cooling the transmission...Is that correct?
You need to make sure the car doesn’t have other issues and seriously consider reducing the boost pressure if you can’t get better tuning.

 

[JJ427R]

Not be be a smart ass but the supercharger is over sped and we’re upset because a radiator attached to the engine is not cooling the transmission...Is that correct?
You need to make sure the car doesn’t have other issues and seriously consider reducing the boost pressure if you can’t get better tuning.

No I'm upset because what KB sold me, and told me would fit my car without modifications, did not fit without major modifications and now is not cooling the engine, of which I had no cooling problems prior. The trans cooling problem is a separate issue and was the only issue prior to this. The two issues are somewhat related. If I can't keep the engine cool, it's going to affect the trans as well.

JDM Engineering did my tune and they are one of the best, nothing wrong with my tune.

The issue has become apparent that removing all my original radiator shroud to install the Fluidyne stuff is causing an airflow issue.

 

[JJ427R]

Interesting turn of events, this morning I received an email from Kenny Brown Performance allowing me to schedule a 15 minute tech session ($75 dollar value, HUH?) with Kenny to answer questions about my mustang. So I guess I get to ask him why his stuff isn't working...... this should be interesting.... tomorrow at 10:00 eastern....

Anyone else interested
http://campaign.r20.constantcontact...37334&ca=049792f5-b72a-43e5-b4b9-e5f7407b27a0

I received a call from Rich at KB shortly after booking my session. I just had a good venting session with him..... He claims I should not have had to remove any of the shroud to install the radiator, so need to talk to my mechanic and find out why he could not get that to fit back in.

Just spoke with mechanic , he claims it would not fit. I believe him. He wants me to bring car to him with the original shroud so he can refresh himself on why....

The plot thickens....

 

[RocketcarX]

Are you using a traditional repair shop or a shop versed in modified/modifying cars? Most techs can not handle parts that don’t just fall into place.
You had no cooling problems but upgraded the radiator anyhow...why are we talking about trans temp if the issue is engine temp? The cooler you added to the trans is one of the least efficent designs made, it’s oversized and bulky to make up for its poor cooling abilities.
The blower being over sped IS a factor in any form of racing, it needs to be considered as part of this equation.
Your car needs better intercooling and a larger blower if you want the power and a cool running engine.
JDM is not top of the line in the 3v world, mid grade at best. Lito, Lund, VMP are all top tier.
Lastly your car has a cooling issue, wether it be the thermostat, water pump, low coolant, air pocket, whatever. You may also have a mechanic issue as well.