Aftermarket wheels, wobble/vibrations, etc....

JTDSR

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So to preface this thread, I am the new owner of a 2008 GT Convertible. The car came with brand new 2010 style GT 500 wheels, wrapped in Nitto NT555 255/45/18's up front, and 285/40/18's in the back. The wheels are 18x9.5 with a +45 offset.

My previous car was a slammed 2007 Camry SE on Radi8 R8s5's, 19x10 on all 4 corners, +42 offset, and 235/45/19 Federal 595's all around.

I was thinking of reusing the Radi8's on the Mustang. I know that even with hubcentric rings, I was getting a bit of wobble in the steering wheel once I hit 65-70 mph and up on the Camry. This was after a balance and alignment, and was told this was because some aftermarket rims just did not have a perfect fit, no matter whether you added the hubcentric rings or not.

In looking for Mustang wheels, I see the Bullitts, Foose Legends, Foose Nitrous, STR 607's, etc. I thought to myself, why not just reuse my Radi8s? They have a good offset for my car, and should fit I would imagine ( possibly not in the front? ) I would then buy 19" snows for now, and in the spring go with an all season tire ( I am in NY BTW ). I understand the Foose/Bullitts/etc from AM.COM will bolt up directly, no problems with fit, according to the reps at AM. What I am curious about, is aftermarket rims. Do you think I would still need hubcentric rings with the Radi8's, NIche, STR's and aftermarket wheels such as those? Did anyone have any major issues with highway wobbling/vibration with wheels made for a wide variety of cars, as opposed to direct Mustang fitment?

Thank you in advance for your input and help. :)
 

fourdegrees11

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Those should fit okay, my 19x10s have a 40mm offset. Hub rings just depend on the inside of the wheel vs your hub. If they're vibrating that bad they might be out of round. I've never had that problem with any aftermarket wheel, and I usually buy wheels for every vehicle I own
 
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46addict

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These cars have a 70.6mm (or 70.3mm depending on who you ask) hub bore diameter if that helps. Also some aftermarket wheels are lug centric which would make hub diameters irrelevant.
 

redfirepearlgt

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Remove the wheels and inspect to see if the installation clips are still on the hub. This will be the washer looking device on one of the lug studs holding the rotor in place. This item believe it or not is simply to hold the rotors in place during assembly at the plant. The factory wheels have a relief cut on the lug nut holes in them so that this item does not have any effect on the operation of the vehicle. HOWEVER many after market wheels regardless of the quality do not mill this relief into the rear side of the hub on each of the lug nut holes. So when an aftermarket wheel is installed and that retainer is still in place, regardless of how proper the balance job was there can be vibration created because the wheel is not sitting flat against the hub.

This may be your problem. Remove it. I found this out the hard way from a friend of mine who manages a Tire center. It was effecting my car after I installed aftermarket wheels. Removing the retainers made the car drive much nicer above 65.

Hope this helps.
 

stkjock

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/\ he hasn't put the wheels on yet
 

JTDSR

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I can't get past this, smh

Why SYH? I got it as a deal from someone. Didn't look too bad at all.


Thank you BTW, to those who helped out. A lot of good information in this post.
 

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stkjock

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Because a 235 section on a 10” rim is silly
 

JTDSR

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Because a 235 section on a 10” rim is silly

Looked good enough. But then again, the purpose of this thread was not to childishly ridicule the previous wheel/tire selection, but to provide information on a purchase for my Mustang. I believe that was done sufficiently. Thank you again to those who supplied the information.
 

stkjock

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LOL, you think you were ridiculed..... this is a very matter of fact board, people don't pull punches.

as far as looks, hard to see how those tires looked in your picture, so I'll remain reserved on judgement.

the more typical debate would be can I fit a 315-335 mm tire on a 10" rim.
 

JTDSR

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It looked fine in person. I had to run 235's, because 245's would have rubbed the coilovers.

I laughed at the idiocy of ridiculing my previous setup, as this post was looking for advice on my Mustang. But hey, whatever floats your boat. ;)
 

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redfirepearlgt

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^^^ Most tire makers will specify rim width min/max/nom for a given tire size. To save yourself some headache, just look up the brand of tire on a site like Tire Rack and read the specifications. Its just that easy. It's not rocket science. Here is the link to Nitto. I simply used BING.COM to find it. All their specs are right there with the exception of rotations per mile. http://www.nittotire.com/

Further going to performance websites (Lethal, AM, LMR, etc.) one can easily look at all of the wheel/tire combinations they have and see what is commonly used together.That gives you a general idea along with using a tire maker's website what will fit safely without bulging, or stretching the safe limits of the tire to rim combination.
 

Norm Peterson

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It looked fine in person. I had to run 235's, because 245's would have rubbed the coilovers.

I laughed at the idiocy of ridiculing my previous setup, as this post was looking for advice on my Mustang. But hey, whatever floats your boat. ;)
Too late now to lose your Camry tire size information, but you'd have been a lot better off if you hadn't included it. Let's just say that the extreme-stretched look - where the wheels are an inch or more wider than the max end of Tire & Rim Association guidelines (what the tire mfrs are really referencing in their tables of dimensions) - hasn't made it over to the ponycar world from the import side. If you ever see a post where I refer to this as "Euro-stretch" . . . you'll know what I meant and it usually isn't intended as a compliment.

On the U.S. domestic side, you're way more likely to see discussions on the other extreme (wheels narrower than the T&RA minimum guideline). But I guess you haven't been here long enough to pick up on that.

If your R8s5's are undamaged and capable of being made to run smoothly, you're probably going to want something like 255/40-19 and 285/35-19 if you want to run staggered. Or 275/35-19's, possibly 285/35-19's all around if you want a 'square' setup. That's off the top of my head because it's an easy conversion from the GT500-size tires for both diameter and load capacity @ normal inflation pressures.


FWIW, I'll run tires on max-width wheels without thinking twice about it. This is a mild stretch relative to running the same tires on their "measuring width" wheels, enough to be visible. And that's more of a stretch than you're likely to see on any of the ponycar (Mustang, Camaro, and Challenger) forums. So even though I'm closer to understanding your 235/45's on 10's, 1" over max combinations like your Camry's are still about an inch too extreme even for me.

( the RF tire on the car and the tire on the GT500 wheel in the background are both max-width fitments per T&RA guidelines for their size and profile)
picture.php



Norm
 

JTDSR

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Very interesting, thank you for the detailed information. I had actually picked up the 19x10's because I was desperate for that style of wheel, and they were sold out online and locally at the time, so I went with it.

Actually yesterday, the guy who bought the Camry bought the wheels off of me, so it is a moot point now. I still want to get wheels, but I may just get the snows now, and hold off on the wheels until spring. No need to put new wheels on with snow coming. I can get a set of 18x9 Bullitts off Craigslist which are a bit worn, but in good physical shape with no curb rash, scratches, etc. I can get the set for $150 and then have them powdercoated for $350 near me. I would likely do the same Vista blue type color and see how it "fits" the look of the car. I could just just keep those for winters.

http://www.smcauto.com/detail-2008-ford-mustang-gt_deluxe-used-15567342.html

Above is a link to a similar Vista blue with that setup.
 

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