Anyone want to take a guess at my rwhp and 1/4 mile/trap speed? VIDEO: 40-120

RED09GT

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Keep in mind that Brian has been racing for quite a while now. Seat time is another very large factor in Brian's success.

Get it to the track and don't get discouraged if you don't hit your number. Message boards and youtube videos give people very high expectations compared to what you see at the tracks in real life.




Also, manual transmission is a big liability at these power levels
 

PaxtonGT05

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I asked myself the same thing with his minimal hp to weight ratio, even with his 20 min 'weight redux' b4 getting onto the strip. I couldn't fathom his..superb results.

http://www.s197forum.com/threads/14...results-from-a-few-simple-mods.113854/page-67 Scroll down to post 669..which continues onto the next page.

His 5 krpm stall converter has a 2:1 stall tq ratio. When the light turns green, off the brakes and mash the gas....and his 1.5 krpm flashes up to 5 k rpm..asap. His 400 ft lbs of tq now feel like 800 ft lbs. The tq converter now is a tq multiplier. That's the secret with auto's, the aftermarket high rpm stall converter. His high (5 k rpm) tq converter is about the closest thing to a free lunch. After the way they explained it's operation, then it all made sense. He gets a massive tq hit right at launch time. Typ they size them for just below max tq, so on a NA coyote eng, the 5 krpm is optimized. He's only 300 something feet above sea level too, and with proper track prep, and cooler temps in Wash state, he manages to pull it all off, with lower DA's.

When he launches at 1.5 krpm, he has already pre-loaded the suspension., that's a big part of it.
That's insane. I didn't realize a stall could multiply torque as such. Definitely explains the low ET with a stock engine. I still can't imagine how the launch manages to be so good that the trap speed ends up being that of a car with almost 100 more hp but hey if it's working for him, he clearly knows what he's doing!
 

PaxtonGT05

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I was talking to Pentalab!!

We're all just realistic around here. I'll be running a 3V until it inevitably turns inside out, then on to something else.
Lol my bad! And I hear ya, I try to remain realistic about the car as well. Still undecided on what I'll do if the engine pops. A 650whp 3V with weight reduction would be pretty awesome, if I found a shop I could 100% trust. Obviously the Coyote would respond better to boost, but with how much I have in this car, how little I'd get back, and the fact it's paid off, it would certainly cost a lot more to buy and boost a 5.0 rather than do a bottom end build on a 3V.
 

PaxtonGT05

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Keep in mind that Brian has been racing for quite a while now. Seat time is another very large factor in Brian's success.

Get it to the track and don't get discouraged if you don't hit your number. Message boards and youtube videos give people very high expectations compared to what you see at the tracks in real life.




Also, manual transmission is a big liability at these power levels
No doubt, there's tons of factors and it's easy to imagine the perfect run but it never goes exactly as planned it seems. As far as at the track I think an automatic would probably be more enjoyable as far as consistancy, but I just don't want to give up the manual for the street fun.

If you don't mind me asking... what power/weight were you at when you ran the time in your sig?
 

eighty6gt

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Lol my bad! And I hear ya, I try to remain realistic about the car as well. Still undecided on what I'll do if the engine pops. A 650whp 3V with weight reduction would be pretty awesome, if I found a shop I could 100% trust. Obviously the Coyote would respond better to boost, but with how much I have in this car, how little I'd get back, and the fact it's paid off, it would certainly cost a lot more to buy and boost a 5.0 rather than do a bottom end build on a 3V.

I will either be grabbing a GT500 engine or a truck 5.0 to mess with. Lots of stock parts either way.
 

Pentalab

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That's insane. I didn't realize a stall could multiply torque as such. Definitely explains the low ET with a stock engine. I still can't imagine how the launch manages to be so good that the trap speed ends up being that of a car with almost 100 more hp but hey if it's working for him, he clearly knows what he's doing!

For every 1/10 he saves at the start, he saves double that at the other end. Those 3-5 krpm stall converters are loose. If they launch just above idle they get a bigger tq hit. But if they launch at 1-2 kprm, the suspension is pre-loaded better, so it's a matter of experimenting. They say the max they could even launch at is aprx 2.2 krpm, the brakes will not hold any more than that. Loose, high rpm 2:1 ratio stall converters is something I have no experience with. And it all works on the street as well for DD use per the folks that have them.

If he didn't use the 5 krpm converter, and used the oem 1.5 krpm converter, with it's 1:1 ratio, the car would feel like a dog, as the NA coyote is making dick for Tq down between idle and 1.5 krpm. Takes too much time to get it up into the power band.

High stall converters are also used on the 3V auto cars. But toss in a blower, centri or PD, or nitrous, and it all has to be very carefully configured and optimized. I burn the tires off in 1st gear, but it throws me into the back seat in 2nd gear... up to 60 mph.... which is what I wanted for typ around town street use. 3rd gear it pulls a little less up to 90 mph, then into 4th, where the pull drops a bunch, but still pulls pretty good up to 110- 120 mph, then it's a slog up to 150 mph @ 6 krpm. I have seen plenty of higher tq 05-10 cars, where their 3rd gear pulls like my 2nd gear. Then the problems start up with wheel spin in 1-2-3, then back pedaling. You can only do so much with a street car, with typ street tires. I wanted some mileage from mine, and have to use it in the wet, so no DR's. DR's are not the best for cornering, which I don't do a lot of..except for hwy on ramps. I have seen 550+ rwhp Roush cars where they would almost turn sideways in 3rd gear on the hwy, the back end was all over the map.

Local prez of mustang club traded his 08 GT-500 in on a new at the time 14 GT-500. He can't get any traction in 1st + 2nd if he tried. They are > 600 rwhp out of the box, new. The 285 rears that come with them are not up to the task.
 

PaxtonGT05

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For every 1/10 he saves at the start, he saves double that at the other end. Those 3-5 krpm stall converters are loose. If they launch just above idle they get a bigger tq hit. But if they launch at 1-2 kprm, the suspension is pre-loaded better, so it's a matter of experimenting. They say the max they could even launch at is aprx 2.2 krpm, the brakes will not hold any more than that. Loose, high rpm 2:1 ratio stall converters is something I have no experience with. And it all works on the street as well for DD use per the folks that have them.

If he didn't use the 5 krpm converter, and used the oem 1.5 krpm converter, with it's 1:1 ratio, the car would feel like a dog, as the NA coyote is making dick for Tq down between idle and 1.5 krpm. Takes too much time to get it up into the power band.

High stall converters are also used on the 3V auto cars. But toss in a blower, centri or PD, or nitrous, and it all has to be very carefully configured and optimized. I burn the tires off in 1st gear, but it throws me into the back seat in 2nd gear... up to 60 mph.... which is what I wanted for typ around town street use. 3rd gear it pulls a little less up to 90 mph, then into 4th, where the pull drops a bunch, but still pulls pretty good up to 110- 120 mph, then it's a slog up to 150 mph @ 6 krpm. I have seen plenty of higher tq 05-10 cars, where their 3rd gear pulls like my 2nd gear. Then the problems start up with wheel spin in 1-2-3, then back pedaling. You can only do so much with a street car, with typ street tires. I wanted some mileage from mine, and have to use it in the wet, so no DR's. DR's are not the best for cornering, which I don't do a lot of..except for hwy on ramps. I have seen 550+ rwhp Roush cars where they would almost turn sideways in 3rd gear on the hwy, the back end was all over the map.

Local prez of mustang club traded his 08 GT-500 in on a new at the time 14 GT-500. He can't get any traction in 1st + 2nd if he tried. They are > 600 rwhp out of the box, new. The 285 rears that come with them are not up to the task.
Yeah I'm definitely not up to snuff on the auto stuff but it sounds pretty advantageous at the drag strip. And I agree with your assessment of how the boosted 3V feels, mine is similar. However with my 4.10s it feels like 3rd and 4th gear pull the same, 1st is useless on these all season 285s I have, and when second hooks it feels like a rocket. I went into 5th 1 time, so I was in boost from about 125-145 in 5th (bad for the engine I know) and while the speedo was definitely moving at a good rate, the "pulling" sensation compared to the lower gears was all but gone. Basically the car in 5th gear feels like what it used to in 4th gear with bolt ons, which isn't terrible with how long 5th is... I'd be interested to see the top speed at an air strip or somehwere, I think the power level should allow 180+ with good conditions and of course the bottom end holding together lol I think that's where 600whp starts to really seem to make a difference is 100-150mph such as the 14 GT500's.

My car launches straight as an arrow with the tire pressure and shock adjustments I made, so once I get a Mickey Thompson back there I'm really hoping 1st gear will be usable in higher temps.
 
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RED09GT

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If you don't mind me asking... what power/weight were you at when you ran the time in your sig?
It dyno'd at 489rwhp/441rwtq and it took about 10 track visits to get it down to the 11.40's. I did a bunch of boost controller tuning, which probably made a bunch more mid range torque than it did on the dyno.
Lots of datalogs, changes to the WOT box for both the shift timing and where the 2 step worked best with drag radials and several suspension adjustments.

First time at the track with this combo and 275/40 17" NT05 drag radials and 4.10 gears was a 12.14@118 mph, riding the limiter as the tires were just too short. Out of 8 runs, 3 were 12.teens, 1 in the12.20's, a 12.40's and 3 were throw aways from either spinning or blowing a shift.
I had been drag racing since 1999 and my car before this was a stroked windsor fox body that I had 2 hero passes in the high 10's but the car usually ran low 11's. The DA the day it ran 10's was something like 600 ft below sea level.
 

PaxtonGT05

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It dyno'd at 489rwhp/441rwtq and it took about 10 track visits to get it down to the 11.40's. I did a bunch of boost controller tuning, which probably made a bunch more mid range torque than it did on the dyno.
Lots of datalogs, changes to the WOT box for both the shift timing and where the 2 step worked best with drag radials and several suspension adjustments.

First time at the track with this combo and 275/40 17" NT05 drag radials and 4.10 gears was a 12.14@118 mph, riding the limiter as the tires were just too short. Out of 8 runs, 3 were 12.teens, 1 in the12.20's, a 12.40's and 3 were throw aways from either spinning or blowing a shift.
I had been drag racing since 1999 and my car before this was a stroked windsor fox body that I had 2 hero passes in the high 10's but the car usually ran low 11's. The DA the day it ran 10's was something like 600 ft below sea level.
Awesome, yeah it sounds like it took a ton of adjusting the car and driver to get the number you were after. My 4th revs out to about 125 mph at 6200 rpm so I wouldn't be on the limiter which is good.

Compared to your fox, how do you like the boosted 3V? More fun, less fun?
 

justinsstang

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Holy smokes you blew up over nothing.

Anyways

Car looks like it pulls good, much better than my old 3v with the M90. 11s should be achievable on a tire if you can drive well.
 

RED09GT

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Awesome, yeah it sounds like it took a ton of adjusting the car and driver to get the number you were after. My 4th revs out to about 125 mph at 6200 rpm so I wouldn't be on the limiter which is good.

Compared to your fox, how do you like the boosted 3V? More fun, less fun?

The 3v is a way nicer car to drive, it feels much more solid and the chassis is so much better.
I miss the fox as I pretty much built that car from the ground up. I lost that car in a house/ garage fire and I was discouraged. I had the car since I was 19 years old and had done everything myself on it, even the paint job. I just wanted something i could get back to the track with so I bought a brand new 09GT.
 

PaxtonGT05

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The 3v is a way nicer car to drive, it feels much more solid and the chassis is so much better.
I miss the fox as I pretty much built that car from the ground up. I lost that car in a house/ garage fire and I was discouraged. I had the car since I was 19 years old and had done everything myself on it, even the paint job. I just wanted something i could get back to the track with so I bought a brand new 09GT.
Sorry to hear about the loss. But it's awesome you're having fun with your replacement. I had an 01 GT before this car, which was similar to the Fox chassis, and I agree it was nowhere near as solid feeling as the S197.
 

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