BMR Launches New Product - 2010-2011 Mustang Handling A-arms (AA025, AA026)

BMR Tech

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BMR Suspension
Handling A-arms for the 2010-2011 Mustang



Correct the suspension geometry on your lowered S197 Mustang with a set of Handling A-arms from BMR Suspension. Based on our well proven traditional A-arm design, these Handling A-arms feature ¾” taller ball joints to raise the roll center height on lowered vehicles for improved handling. The BMR Handling A-arms are constructed from heavy duty 1.25” DOM tubing and feature laser cut double-gusseted reinforcement plates. The non-adjustable A-arms (AA025) include a combination of low-deflection, internally-fluted, polyurethane bushings and fluted, greasable, Delrin bushings. The adjustable A-arms (AA026) include Delrin bushings and Teflon-lined XR series spherical rod ends with stainless spacers. The result is a high quality tubular A-arm that minimizes bushing deflection, reduces un-sprung weight by up to 11 pounds, and improves handling by reducing body roll. Installation time is only 3 hours. Available in black hammertone or red powdercoat.

To preview all of BMR’s high-performance suspension parts, please visit www.bmrsuspension.com, email [email protected], or contact them at BMR Suspension, 12581 N. US Highway 301, Thonotosassa, FL 33592, 813-986-9302, Fax: 813-986-8055.

AA026_large.jpg
 

NickS

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Just out of curiosity, are these any different than the 05-09 ones, and wouldn't these bolt right up to a 05-09?
 

BMR Tech

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Just out of curiosity, are these any different than the 05-09 ones, and wouldn't these bolt right up to a 05-09?

2005 to early 2010 model S197 Mustangs feature an 18mm ball joint from the factory.

2010+ feature a 19mm ball joint.

We offer standard height ball joints, and 3/4" taller ball joints (Both 18mm and 19mm)

If you have any other questions, please let me know!
 

Boozshey

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Does this mean you are closer to having a K-Member for the 11+?
 

BMR Tech

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For those of you that are wondering about the roll center, and exactly what is affected when lowering your car...

When you lower the car, your chassis drops......however the spindles, and mounting points do not. The connecting points between the chassis/K-Member....and the spindle/strut/spring assembly are now placed at drastically different angles. The A-Arm will have an upward angle towards the wheel.

When you install a taller ball-joint, you are now effectively lowering the actual A-Arm back down, which improves the overall geometry and handling capabilities of the front suspension.

Hope that helps!
 

r.barn

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I officially nominate BMR for "2011 Most Posts in the Wrong Section" award.


Still waiting on that 2011 k-member - cough, cough.
 

BMR Tech

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I tried deleting post #6, but I did not see a way to when I tried to.

As long as we get the "2011 Most Tech Help" award, I am okay with any other awards. :beerdrink:

K-Member is coming, don't fret. :evillaugh:
 

r.barn

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K-Member is coming, don't fret. :evillaugh:

Hurry up --- I need some way to offset some added weight.

Really waiting for you guys to put together a complete kit for the '11's so I can do it all at once.

What else is left past the k-member ? not much that I can think of.

29whipl.jpg
 

BMR Tech

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Wow.....

What horsepower?

Better have a good suspension to put that massive amount of power to the pavement.
 

must007

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BMR Tech, how would we know on the 2010s if its an early 10 with 18mm or the later with 19mm with out taking it apart, Is it by date and or VIN ??
 

Sky Render

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What lowering amounts will these A-arms correct? Is it necessary/designed for only a 1" drop or for larger amounts?
 

BMR Tech

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BMR Tech, how would we know on the 2010s if its an early 10 with 18mm or the later with 19mm with out taking it apart, Is it by date and or VIN ??

The best way to check is to measure them. We have had customers with various build dates, before and after certain dates....that had the 19mm and the 18mm.

What lowering amounts will these A-arms correct? Is it necessary/designed for only a 1" drop or for larger amounts?

I generally recommend going with the taller ball joints when the car is lowered at-least 1" and lower (more).

Of course, if the car is "slammed" 2.5".....this ball joint will not perfectly correct the arm angle, however....it will improve it drastically compared to stock height ball joint. Anything 1" or lower, will see a benefit to upgrading to a taller ball joint.

I always tell my customers, if the car is lowered any amount....why not go with the upgraded taller ball joint, as it does not cost any additional amount.
 

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