BMR rear control mount frame position

[Yoyo1]

Hello. 2008 Ford Mustang GT.

I just bought BMR non-adjustable rear, upper and lower control arms, BMR rear upper control arm frame mount, and a BMR rear upper control arm differential bushing (the bushing attaching the rear upper control arm to the differential). The car is lowered only about 1 inch with Ford Racing P springs, and is running Billstein HD shocks and struts.

Was wondering. I had a shop put on the rear upper and lower control arms, differential bushing, and the rear upper control arm frame mount. On that BMR frame mount, there are three choices to run the attachment Bolt attaching the rear upper control arm to the frame mount. I was told the best hole choice to use was the hole that was closer to the top of the car frame, in other words, the hole closest to the flat surface of thr BMR frame mount since the car is lowered.

Turns out my mechanic ran it throught the middle hole choice of the three total hole choices. The car seems to work fine. But since I was informed the upper most hole should be used, you guys think that middle hole choice will cause any issues?

I just dont want any kind of premature wear and tear.

 

[RED09GT]

Just so I have this straight, the holes would be arranged like this:
1
2
3
Right now it is on hole #2 but someone told you it should be on hole #1?
If you did that, your instant center would likely be behind the car and you'd likely be battling wheelspin. The middle hole is probably okay but you may have better results with hole #3.

 

[Yoyo1]

Hello. Thx for response. Yes. 1,2,3. If u look at the attached photo which I pulled off the internet (only difference is my upper control arm is NOT adjustable as the one in the photo), the hole the bolt is running through would be the correct hole to use...lets call it position "1" of 3 possible, where position "1" would be the closest to the "base" of the rear upper control arm frame mount. At least that is what I was told by vendor.

Again, just hoping the "2nd" position (so the middle hole out of 3) my mechanic ran the bolt through would not cause premature wear and tear. I could just have it re-inserted but the labor takes some time.

Idk, one inch lowered car probably won't make make too much difference correct?

 

[RED09GT]

None of the holes will cause premature wear and tear, it will just have an effect on the way the suspension reacts.
I think my BMR mount is an older one as I only have 2 holes, one that was in the same position as stock and one that is lower than stock. I use the top hole (stock location) on mine.

 

[Yoyo1]

Thx Red09GT. The car feels ok now. But haven't tracked her since the mod. I think it should be fine tho since Im kind of a beginner anyway and not too sure I will feel much difference at my skill level. Just glad it won't add any premature wear tear. Again appreciate feedback.

 

[RocketcarX]

Most of the research I've done shows the stock location is the best location unless you're having some sort of extreme issue. A lot of upper control arm mounts don't have any adjustment for that reason.

 

[Yoyo1]

RocketcarX: i wonder if that stock position is still best if car is lowered, even just one inch? So what do you think about that #2 position my mechanic stuck that bolt in?

 

[RocketcarX]

RocketcarX: i wonder if that stock position is still best if car is lowered, even just one inch? So what do you think about that #2 position my mechanic stuck that bolt in?

BMR and UPR have both told me the stock location is best for most applications lowered or not, which is why the UPR mount only has the stock location

I would have him put the UCA in the mount hole where you told/paid him to.

 

[ponys197]

You should have bought the 2011+ Mount and UCA. It sits back an inch further and is better. You just have to buy the 18mm bolt to replace the other one. I bought it for my 2006. There was an article on here from the BMR tech about it.

 

[ghunt81]

RocketcarX: i wonder if that stock position is still best if car is lowered, even just one inch? So what do you think about that #2 position my mechanic stuck that bolt in?

My car's lowered an inch and a half, I have the J&M mount which just has the stock hole location, it's been good far as I can tell. Of course, I haven't raced the car or anything.

 

[07 Boss]

Have you called BMR? Their customer support is outstanding. The helped me with all of my adjustable parts and continued to help me find the proper adjustments for the shocks between street and strip. Most helpful bunch of guys out there. Currently working with them to find the perfect set up for my 2nd gen F-body.

 

[06StangGT]

You should have bought the 2011+ Mount and UCA. It sits back an inch further and is better. You just have to buy the 18mm bolt to replace the other one. I bought it for my 2006. There was an article on here from the BMR tech about it.

Where do I get the 18mm bolt and how long is it? I bought the same setup for my 2006 also but haven’t put it on yet

 

[Norm Peterson]

RocketcarX: i wonder if that stock position is still best if car is lowered, even just one inch? So what do you think about that #2 position my mechanic stuck that bolt in?

That might be the right logic for setting the LCAs in 3-hole relo brackets, but I don't think it is for the UCA in its chassis bracket.

If hole #1 is located in exactly the stock location, lowering the car an inch isn't going to cost you more than a couple percent antisquat out of about 30%. What that means in driving is that while launch bite may suffer slightly you'll never notice this once you get rolling. Hole #2 will give a stronger launch, if that's what you're actively looking for. But there might be some payback in terms of ride quality over bumps under much throttle or much braking.

Hole #1 is probably still better for normal driving, autocross, and road course driving, hole #2 for a street-oriented street/strip setup.

Your call.


Norm

 

[Pentalab]

For the UCA mount, ( on the 05-10 UCA's and mating UCA mount), mine was a 2 hole affair. Bottom hole on UCA mount used for stock ride height. Top hole used if car lowered.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Why would they suggest a lower anti-squat setting for a lowered car? Or are relo brackets assumed?


Norm

 

[Yoyo1]

Thx for response guys. So i got a response from BMR. Since I dont have LCA mounts, BMR was thinking position 2 or 3. Based on what i am reading above, and my desire for stronger launches, I am leaning towards leaving it in position two (middle hole). Maybe my mechanic surmised this...idk. I havent yet had a chance to get it back on the track to test it and really determine how it feels, but some hard street driving so far has yielded it feels good. As our friend from "Cheers" (haha Norm Peterson) suggested, the ride over bumps has been magnified. Oddly, I kind of like that "feel" every bump feel. So far, I haven't hit any bumps that sent me flying, knock on wood. It appears any position will work and as others indicated choice is based on individual preference. And if I am reading all input correctly none will prematurely wear or tear on car. Which was my big concern since I am keeping my Stang for life...haha.