they are hoosier a6's
yah i know that is all i would need i just don't have one i may go order one
so its not going to like kill the tires to just run stock C/C
do you know of any guides on what exactly to do
Nice! The grip you'll get off those tires will blow your mind...
Running "street" levels of camber, say-1.25* or so won't kill the tires outright, but you will wind up wearing them faster than you want, particularly on the outside edges. With the MM CC plates, though, it's so simple to change the camber, you might as well get set up to do it...
I don't know of any guides, BUT it really isn't hard at all...
1) Park on that level surface. If it's not level, all your readings will be off. Measure the camber on both sides, and write them down. Next, with a Sharpie marker, scribe a line on the top of the strut tower on each side of the strut shaft so that you have a reference for your street setup.
2) Next, jack up one side, just enough to unload the strut, and loosen the four strut mount nuts (the small ones), and from under the fender, shove it
all the way inboard, closest to the motor. Drop the car, repeat on the other side, and then roll the car back about 4', and then roll it up again, back to where it was. That will settle the suspension, and give you accurate readings.
3) Re-measure the camber on each side, and again compare the readings. Assuming that they DON'T match, which they probably won't, you'll have to adjust the side that has the MOST negative camber. Again, jack up that side, and pull the strut partway back out, drop the car, roll back and forth, and remeasure. Repeat as necessary until the two sides match. Now, scribe ANOTHER line on the tower that you adjusted, so that you can get back to that setting again.
4) Test-drive the car, and look for two things: First, is the steering wheel centered? Second, does the car tend to drift to one side or the other on a flat road? If the road has a crown, it will want to drift down into the gutter, I'm thinking more like fresh highway center-lane... If the wheel is straight, and the car doesn't drift, you're done.
A couple of notes on toe: When you change camber, toe will also change, and the more negative camber you dial in, the more positive toe you'll get. That said, however, a touch of positive toe will help with turn-in, and the change that you'll get will probably NOT be significant. If your wheel is off when you're done, go back to the street camber setting, and see if it centers up. If it does, then the space you're working in is NOT flat! If it doesn't, then it probably wasn't centered to begin with...
The nice thing about the scribe marks is that they are repeatable, in the field, without need for a flat pad. Go to the track, swap in the Hoosiers, and while the fronts are in the air, slide the CC plates to line up with the "track" scribe marks. Done. When you're done at the track, swap back to your street wheels, and again, while the front is in the air, slide the plates to line up with the "street" scribe marks, and you're right back where you started! Simple, fast, and easy.
