Car hard to start or won't start when HOT...

Boozshey

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Stock gt500 dual pump fuel system, stock lines, fore fuel rails (shouldn't matter), and 95lb ev14 injectors.

The problem has just gotten worse which leads me to believe it's a "part" vs anything else. Even before i was running the exhaust this way it hard hot hard start issues. I mentioned it to john Lund and he said it was fine, I'd have to try and find what he actually said he thought it would be.

I think I will ship out the injectors. The company wants $8 per injector to check and said they can check them at different temps.

At least from there I have one more thing to rule out.

I did the cop check and they all seemed to be fine.

Would a leaky injectors relate the same to the random misfire codes.

I guess what I mean is how would a random misfire relate to the car not hot starting?
 

19COBRA93

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I think it's fuel system related too. What makes up your whole fuel system, and what injectors are they? Have you tried cycling the key a few times to maybe build up pressure? Once it start's, does it run fine, or does it stumble for a second?

If you have an injector/s hanging up, you'll have fuel in your oil. How does your oil look? Does it puff any smoke once it fires?
 

JeremyH

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Do you have a fuel pressure gauge. You say it has been steadily getting worse, has the temperature been getting hotter where your at.
 
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07calspecial

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I'm going to throw this out there and say maybe a bad starter that gets hot and doesn't like to turn. Easy enough to have checked at the local auto parts store.
 

psfracer

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^^^He has already stated the starter turns over the engine fine at all temps, it just doesn't start.
 

Boozshey

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Haven't had much time to dig into it. Thought the injectors would be an easy item to pull but I was wrong. The damn blower overlaps the driver side fuel rail so it's going to require a lot more to get to them than I suspected.

In the mean time I had some other things to take care of. In the midst of that I had the battery test, which tested bad. Don't know if that can cause some of my problems, but have a new one now. So we will see... :(
 

VectorPat

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It may also be possible during hot cranking there may be enough of a voltage drop that the fuel pump and or ECU is cutting off. You could check your cranking voltage at the fuse box, not sure how low on voltage these cars can go but with my experience its probably around 9v.
 

BlazinBoss302

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Might be crazy..... since you say this has always happened one its hot.... my sister had a Camaro that would act the same when it was hot. Turned out the fuel line was run to close to the block and would get the fuel in the line hot and it would cause vapor lock.
 

Boozshey

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So after datalogging the other night I discovered a possible bad o2. So tomorrow I am hoping to swap it's side and see what that does. Hopefully the problem follows to the other side.

datalog_zpsa35d94ee.jpg
 

Boozshey

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Sorry forgot to post. O2 problem followed when switched so a new one is on the way. Then I'll go back out and see if it continues.
 

Boozshey

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So, that didn't fix anything!!! I am so tired of this POS. My fault, but pulling back into the garage last night I was closer to the lift than I though, and screwed up the bumper and right front wheel...

Anyways, mechanically the car ran worse than ever. However it did start poorly.

I am going to pull the blower and send the injectors off to get tested. I just don't trust them right now. Wish I would have just bought the ID1000's.
 

GallopingFord

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Sorry to hear about the problems. I wish the best of luck with it... I know that feeling when you just want shit to work and there progress to be made.
 

tigerhonaker

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So, that didn't fix anything!!! I am so tired of this POS. My fault, but pulling back into the garage last night I was closer to the lift than I though, and screwed up the bumper and right front wheel...

Anyways, mechanically the car ran worse than ever. However it did start poorly.

I am going to pull the blower and send the injectors off to get tested. I just don't trust them right now. Wish I would have just bought the ID1000's.

Bruce,

Just got home and read your post.

Sorry big-guy about your on going problems.

I've had a few set backs so sort of know what your going through.

Hope things get better for you soon.


Terry
 

Boozshey

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So last night I was pulling the car back into the garage and pulled another mis-fire code. This happened during what I would call a cold engine condition, since I was merely moving the car from the trailer back into the garage. This time the codes hit cylinder 6 and 7. So I have now just about had a misfire on every cylinder. At this point, the only thing I can say is possible a fuel problem. The pump is the only thing that I can think of that would hit all 8 cylinders to have that effect.

Of course a vacuum leak also could hit all 8, but I've done a leakdown without any signs of a leak.

What's the best way to test the fuel pressure or pump pressure? datalog? These damn 2012 computers won't show fuel pressure on the aeroforce gauages... grrr!!!
 

Boozshey

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Suggesting 5 COPS or 5 Fuel injectors to be bad is hard to believe. I've thrown a code now for misfires in cylinders, 2,3,5,6,7

Seems to me that if it were a fuel related problem causing the misfires, it would have to be the lack of fuel. The only thing that would keep the fuel from reaching the injectors would be the pump.

Of course it could also be a computer problem. I've re-flashed in case of corrupt tune. But I don't want to chase wires yet.

I'm not a master tech and rely on suggestions from others experience or knowledge.
 

michael.konor

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When you described your problem, I immediately thought that you're having problem with what we call "blips". For a split second you either lose voltage, or a ground, and get random faults within some system on the same circuit. Could even possibility be a momentary short that isn't enough to pop your fuse, but doubtful.

No matter what, it takes time and patience to elminate the possibilities. The easiest to start with is checking your BEC on the COP circuit, along with removing it from the case and checking the underside, and grounds.

Are you running a Boost a Spark or equivalent?
 

psfracer

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Do all of the plugs look normal? I had a COP wire ground out on the valve cover before and that plug was black, like it was extremely rich.

I think its electrical. Electrical problems can have a mind of their own and be inconsistent, making them a real pain in the ass to find.

Did you check all of your grounds? Check all your wires, look for any evidence of something grounding out.
 

Boozshey

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No boost a spark.

I will examine that this sunday Paul, thanks for the suggestion.

Now that I think about it, the Kennbell install guide has you wrap some wires in a kevlar wrap for heat. The document says they've had people melt the wires that cross over the back of the motor. I will check those also and see if it's a problem.
 

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