Changing converter, auto trans fill

Maypo

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Looking for info on two fronts for my 2006 GT.
1. Bought a new TCI #456000 converter, I've heard mixed reviews about it. Before I install it does anyone have any experience with this converter? I already have 4.10 gears, COMP NSR cams, and a BAMA tune.
2. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to refill the trans after I change the converter?

Thanks!
 

Pentalab

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I used the oem converter, but a deeper Performance automatic tranny pan, holds an extra 4 qts, plus has a drain plug on the bottom. It also has a locking type dip stick that comes up next to the firewall on pass side. Big enough to add ATF. Then also installed the JDM engineering 5r55s auto tranny catch can, located on side wall, on drivers side, near the firewall. Then used RP max ATF synthetic auto tranny fluid.

I had the local dealer drain the oem ford auto tranny fluid. They used a vac hook up on one end..and a bit of pressure from a nitrogen bottle on the other end...to ensure getting all of the old crap outa there. Both hookups were done at the Auto tranny cooler. I also found that my tranny temps would go from 170 F up to 200 F, in a mere 4-7 secs with small M90 blower on, on the hwy. My fix for that was a 2nd auto tranny cooler, made by B+M. It's 3/4" thick, and is plumbed in series with oem ford auto tranny cooler. Problem now solved. Temps only rise from 170 F...to a max of 171 or 172 F.

The oem ford auto tranny pan filler arrangement is a goofy setup at best. With no dipstick on the oem pan, no way to check atf levels. The JDM catch can ensures no puking of atf all over the road when fluid gets hot. Works good. This is all on my 2010 auto, which uses the same 5r55s as the 05-09 cars.
 

Maypo

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The catch can is a great idea, ever since I went with a BAMA tune the trans does leak after I take a few WOT runs. What is the brand/item# on the trans pan?
 

Pentalab

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The catch can is a great idea, ever since I went with a BAMA tune the trans does leak after I take a few WOT runs. What is the brand/item# on the trans pan?

The tranny pan was made by performance automatic or PA. The version for the coyote 6R80 aut tranny holds and extra 3 qts, same deal, dip stick etc.

I bought mine from AM a few yrs back. (05-10 version) It's exactly 2.1 " deeper on the inside vs the oem paper thin steel pan. This PA version is super thick aluminum, with loads of ribs on the outside. Where the flange bolts to the underside of the 5R55S, its almost 5/8" thick. I will see if I can dig up the model number.. they only made one version for the 5R55S.

The catch can was the JDM idea. The pukes atf like crazy on the strip, or any time at wot. Without a dipstick, u have no clue how much atf u have lost onto the ground.
 

07 Boss

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You're supposed to fill it from the bottom of the pan. I have a little attachment that you add to the stock drain plug. It's basically like a nipple. You attach a tube and run it up into the tranny. I used a little tube thingy that screws onto and atf bottle with a one way check valve to make it easier. Checking the level is kinda weird. You lift the car, making sure it is level. Start the car and let it come up to temp. Then you undo the middle of the drain plug and drain until it starts to not come in a steady stream. Once it starts dripping instead of flowing you close up the plug.
 

Pentalab

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You're supposed to fill it from the bottom of the pan. I have a little attachment that you add to the stock drain plug. It's basically like a nipple. You attach a tube and run it up into the tranny. I used a little tube thingy that screws onto and atf bottle with a one way check valve to make it easier. Checking the level is kinda weird. You lift the car, making sure it is level. Start the car and let it come up to temp. Then you undo the middle of the drain plug and drain until it starts to not come in a steady stream. Once it starts dripping instead of flowing you close up the plug.

The oem ford drain + fill procedure is a bit of a screwball setup imo. Even with the eng up to temp, the auto tranny won't be, it only comes up a bit in temp, like 20 deg F above ambient outside air temps. I found you have to actually put a load on it, drive it, to get the tranny temps up to normal. With the PA pan + dipstick, when it comes time to topping it up, its just make sure the tranny is up to temp via the obd gauges, (170 F) then tweak the final level with car on level ground, and add via the dip stick tube ( + funnel of course), in eng bay. To drain, remove the locking dipstick in eng bay, (to allow some air in), then open up the drain plug on underside of PA pan. You won't get it all out, but most of it.
 

RocketcarX

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The factory Ford spec is between 80-120 degrees as shown on the scan tool, if you let it come "up to temp" it's already too hot. I hate these transmissions and their fill procedure.
 

Pentalab

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The factory Ford spec is between 80-120 degrees as shown on the scan tool, if you let it come "up to temp" it's already too hot. I hate these transmissions and their fill procedure.

Mine is a 2010. I checked mine and a few other's like 2008, etc, with my aeroforce gauges ( I have 3 of em on the A pillar, + a SCT-X3) and each vehicle displayed 170 F for tranny temp.... after it finally got up to temp. The folks at PA told me as long as it doesn't exceed 200 F, you don't have a problem at all. With the deeper pan, and extra 4 qts..and all of it now RP max ATF, synthetic, plus the B+ M tranny cooler ( which is a bar + plate design + T stat that operates off of viscosity) vs (tube + fin)... it takes a long time to get to 170 F. I can drive to the UPS office at the other end of town, and its only 155 F.. but that's all stop and go 30 mph. If on the hwy, it gets up to 170 F pretty quickly, but then it doesn't budge after that.

Where did you read the 80-120 F ford spec, that I have not seen. I checked a ton of stuff on line and typ auto trannys operate at 160-175 F, considered ..'normal'.

Regardless, the oem fill procedure is fubar. Not having a dipstick drove me nuts, esp with it puking ATF when the blower was on, and out for a romp. I could be down 1-2 qts easily, and never know it.
With the catch can in there, no loss of atf, levels stay put. I believe there are also aftermarket oem style pans available, that are same depth as oem, but have a dipstick..and a drain plug. Typ the atf levels drop a bit, when atf is at 170F, vs stone cold. Typ I will take it for a 20 mile drive on the hwy, then check level at a chevron gas station, since they are virtually dead level surfaces. Then leave eng on idle, while checking dipstick. Once level is tweaked, its never touched again.
 

RocketcarX

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Here is good reference of a 5R55 in an Explorer. 80-120* is the Ford recommend temp range, at least as far as I understand it. My 5R55 experience is mostly in trucks.
 

Pentalab

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That 80-120 F in the above video is after a 10 mins of the eng running, which is exactly what I get too. Then stick it into drive...and take it for a spin on the hwy at 50 mph, then it climbs to 170 F.
With the eng on idle, there is no load on the auto tranny, that's why the temps don't climb.

He wants a bit of heat in it, to do a better drain.

Its a silly procedure ford cooked up, really fubar at best. As far as levels go, check the level after it has come up to 170 F. Cold levels will a lot higher than the hot levels..as in higher than the high line mark.

If you drain it at the bottom of the pan, you will only get 1/2 to 3/4 of it out. The portion you don't get out resides inside the tq converter. Hence sucking it out at the tranny cooler connections, with suction on one side, and a bit of pressure on the other side. It's like 8-9 qts with oem pan, and 12-13 qts with the deeper pan.
 

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