compression test results

Wes06

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tensioner should stay semi rigid with the spring inside it to keep the chain somewhat tight, did you happen to turn the crank counter clockwise when removing the balancer? because that would compress the tensioner via pulling on that side of the chain
 

rickf

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At least your guides aren't in pieces and jammed in the oil pump screen. But that RTV can jam up a screen even worse so be careful with that stuff!
 

702GT

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tensioner should stay semi rigid with the spring inside it to keep the chain somewhat tight, did you happen to turn the crank counter clockwise when removing the balancer? because that would compress the tensioner via pulling on that side of the chain

I agree. Need to give that crank a turn so the chains are loaded in the proper direction of revolution. The chain should not sag between the cam and crank opposite of the tensioner. As far as I know, there's no way to tell if you have a bad tensioner on these cars, because they actuated by oil pressure. I suppose you could measure spring resistance for static tension, but that won't tell you if it's doing its job while at operating and loaded oil pressure. It could be leaking oil passed the tensioner seal.

When I come upon such diagnostic challenges, I feel it's better to replace than to guess. Especially on such a cheap part. Replace both tensioners, make sure to RTV them properly, and allow more time than specified for proper cure time on the RTV, then run it. The guides and guide arm look pretty good. Doesn't look uneven or thin. Only way to check the chains (other than physical damage) is to remove them and measure them, or compare them to a new set. Only way to tell if they're stretched, but 4.6 timing chains are beasts, you'd be hard pressed and running some serious shit to stretch one.
 

Wes06

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Tensioners shouldn't require rtv iirc.
Just bolt em on with the supplied gasket
 

702GT

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Tensioners shouldn't require rtv iirc.
Just bolt em on with the supplied gasket

You're right. I add a bit to mine and torque to spec. I figure it certainly isn't going to hurt anything. I don't know why, it just bothers me if I don't. It isn't necessary though.
 

swflastang05

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You're right. I add a bit to mine and torque to spec. I figure it certainly isn't going to hurt anything. I don't know why, it just bothers me if I don't. It isn't necessary though.

I used to RTV mine but if you do that it's impossible to take them back off without effing up the orings, basically making them disposable. I always install new ones for a new build but I have had to pull them before for something stupid and would have reused them if the orings were't effed up.
 

702GT

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I used to RTV mine but if you do that it's impossible to take them back off without effing up the orings, basically making them disposable. I always install new ones for a new build but I have had to pull them before for something stupid and would have reused them if the orings were't effed up.

Those plastic tensioners make my eyes roll back anyway. I don't mind tossing them and buying another pair if I have to remove them. I figure I'd be doing myself a favor in doing so.
 

Gh0stRep0rt

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tensioner should stay semi rigid with the spring inside it to keep the chain somewhat tight, did you happen to turn the crank counter clockwise when removing the balancer? because that would compress the tensioner via pulling on that side of the chain



no, i did not go counter clockwise ... i replace the tensioners and re do the timing and even checked the chain to make sure everything was right, i hope this was problem and i get to enjoy the car


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Wraith

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Put 2v metal tensioners back in the oem style 3v one suck. I had a set go bad 8k miles after build and could compress with my thumb. Reluctor plate started moving around into chain or vice versa either way they aren’t supposed to meet lol
 

eighty6gt

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The tensioners could leak, as long it's not major nothing would happen. The entire oiling system is a controlled leak. On the back of the nice plastic tensioners is o ring like reusable sealant.

Good luck everybody!!
 

Gh0stRep0rt

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[emoji58] so decided to take it to the dealer since i couldn’t find a shop to do a leak test down on my car due to the mods it has. the mechanic said that theres no leaks on the passenger side at all, but number 5-7-8 intakes valves are not sealing and need to be replace. now i got to wait for the valves to get here, removed the head and replace the valves [emoji29]


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rickf

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I find it hard top believe that those valves were not sealing looking at those compression numbers.
 

Gh0stRep0rt

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I find it hard top believe that those valves were not sealing looking at those compression numbers.



thats what i say to my self, so im taking both heads out and ill take it to the shop that worked on them in the first place


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86GT351

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I think they might have mixed up the cylinders they are concerned with. With compression on that side of the engine being what it is, I doubt it is a valve issue. At least on that side. I could see possibly on the other heads.
 

Gh0stRep0rt

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[emoji23] so decided to use crc valve cleaning just so see if its make any difference, the day after i decided to erase the code and change the settings on my gauge so i can check the short and long trim on both side and drove around... funny, one side used to delay big time on both short and long trim and now they are both giving me the same reading equally. now that i checked the engine service light, it doesn’t show me that im stuck running lean anymore [emoji28]. [emoji848] so now im only stuck with the number 1 & 3 fuel injector circuit malfunctioning. ill do a compression check later on


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ChewyR

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Side to side compression numbers like that typically indicate a tooth off on one side of the cams or a bad phaser. The phasers can move about 30 degrees, so one tooth retarded won't make it not run. But it should throw a code about camshaft position sensor.
 

Gh0stRep0rt

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guess what guys and girls...
26b68e9884a5f3130ad46c86d96e48b5.jpg



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