CX Racing Intercooler Install

[Zoom-zoomhatch]

So I bought a used Vortech kit and decided to tackle installing it myself. The blower went on pretty painless but I cannot figure where the bottom support bracket attaches to the car. If anyone has this kit and could snap some pictures I would be forever grateful. Second issue is the MAF. There is a bung for the maf right behind the air filter and another in the pipe that connects to the throttle body. I’m guessing one needs to be plugged but which and what’s the purpose of it being in either place specifically. Thanks in advance for any assistance.


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[46addict]

The MAF placement will determine whether you'll be tuning for a blow-through or draw-through setup. Either decision will also affect where the blow off valve will go and how it will be set up. Blow through typically means you have a BOV venting to atmosphere and mounted before the intercooler but after the blower and the MAF goes to a straight section of pipe before the TB. Draw throughs have the BOV recirculating into the blower inlet and the MAF will go near a straight section near the air filter.

Whatever happens you should not have the BOV downstream of the MAF as that would be unmetered air going in or out.

 

[Zoom-zoomhatch]

That’s simple enough. So aside from ricer noises there’s no real benefit for going blow through?


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[o2sys]

Yes blow thru will have better iat readings as it will be measuring right before it enters the TB. You won’t have air turbulence wash back(that’s why the inlet hose is all s-shaped) so you will get better drieveability. You will have less restrictions on the intake with a smoother power pipe. You don’t have to recirculate the hot air back into the blower. Also if you blow a hose or have a boost leak the car will still be driveable (sort of like limp mode) until you get to it.


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[Zoom-zoomhatch]

Cool, ready to get this sucker sewed up so I can enjoy the fruits of my labor. Any input on fuel pumps? I have a BAP but at 130k I was just gonna to the Deatchworks pump or walbro, as far as I can tell they are plug and play and it’s piece of mind over using basically a crutch on an old pump.


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[o2sys]

GT500 Dual Pump

 

[46addict]

Definitely get a new pump. The Walbro 405 (TU-282) is a drop in and comes as an assembly so you don't have to worry about removing and replacing the pump from the stock hat.

If you get the GT500 pumps you may want the FRPP Dual Fuel Pump Kit (expensive) so you don't have to worry about replacing the female connector to work with the stock wiring harness. If memory serves me right I think the GT500 connector has 6 pins and the GT harness has 4. I don't know if an adapter exists. You could try getting the GT500 harness and pumps separately to save some money but that harness is not easy to find. The advantage to the GT500 pump hat is that it's made to support two pumps so you can upgrade them to dual 340lph or even dual 405s to get the most out of your returnless fuel system. Stock GT500 is rated for 255lph.

With that said I think the stock GT hat can be modified to accommodate two pumps. I'm not sure on this so you'll have to search to figure out what all is involved. Regardless of what route you go the stock pump should be upgraded and a BAP alone may not be enough. Also consider a 10awg-12awg power wire upgrade.

 

[Zoom-zoomhatch]

I hate to bump an old thread but as I’ve been working through the install I’ve realized this kit was either not on a 05-06 car or the guy kept/reused some of the parts as I’m missing a couple things. Primarily the PS relocation kit and the coolant re routing stuff. I know you can get most of the stuff from Vortech but does anyone know if all the important stuff can be sourced from say oriellys? Or would it be plain easier to get the stuff from Vortech?


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[46addict]

We like to see old threads bumped rather than separate threads on the same topic.

And yes 05-06 coolant routing is different from 07-10. For the PS relocation, if all you need is to have the reservoir moved somewhere else, it's a 5/8" ID rubber line that goes from the rack to the reservoir. You can get a couple feet of this at the parts store and cut it to the correct length. It will be a virgin stretch getting the hose on the reservoir outlet but it will fit.

Redoing the coolant routing involves getting a new crossover, and lower/upper hoses. If the stock coolant tank has been moved or replaced with an aftermarket tank, you'll need to measure the lower hose and make sure it will be the correct length. Be aware the OEM lower hose for an 07-10 is $100+ at parts stores so try to plan ahead and order online from Rockauto or something.

 

[Zoom-zoomhatch]

Alrighty. Got the factory coolant res so dodged a bullet there. I’ve put the coolant crossover modification kit on order with Vortech which was all that was not here or findable elsewhere. But the 05-06 portion of the install instructions. It says remove the steel insert, what piece is that? The pictures aren’t helping any. I got the bleed screw but not whatever the steel insert is.


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[RocketcarX]

Definitely get a new pump. The Walbro 405 (TU-282) is a drop in and comes as an assembly so you don't have to worry about removing and replacing the pump from the stock hat.

If you get the GT500 pumps you may want the FRPP Dual Fuel Pump Kit (expensive) so you don't have to worry about replacing the female connector to work with the stock wiring harness. If memory serves me right I think the GT500 connector has 6 pins and the GT harness has 4. I don't know if an adapter exists. You could try getting the GT500 harness and pumps separately to save some money but that harness is not easy to find. The advantage to the GT500 pump hat is that it's made to support two pumps so you can upgrade them to dual 340lph or even dual 405s to get the most out of your returnless fuel system. Stock GT500 is rated for 255lph.

With that said I think the stock GT hat can be modified to accommodate two pumps. I'm not sure on this so you'll have to search to figure out what all is involved. Regardless of what route you go the stock pump should be upgraded and a BAP alone may not be enough. Also consider a 10awg-12awg power wire upgrade.

The TU-282 is not really 405, its a 250LPH pump is disguise, they are also known for fuel level sender issues.
The AEM 50-1000 is all the pump you need, fits in the stock hat and won't over stress the factory wiring. Change the fuel pump fuse to a 20 amp and you're good to go.
This is enough pump to ruin a stock internal engine and it will work with a BAP if you need more.
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-50-1000-...F8&qid=1524466691&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+50-1000

 

[46addict]

That makes sense why my 10psi P1SC setup was pegging the pump duty cycle even with a 12awg wiring upgrade. The fuel pressure and AFR held steady but if I wanted more power out of it, I would have needed a BAP or bigger pump. I thought something was wrong with my car in the fuel lines or wiring.

 

[Ready2Rockyou]

Alrighty. Got the factory coolant res so dodged a bullet there. I’ve put the coolant crossover modification kit on order with Vortech which was all that was not here or findable elsewhere. But the 05-06 portion of the install instructions. It says remove the steel insert, what piece is that? The pictures aren’t helping any. I got the bleed screw but not whatever the steel insert is.


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[06StangGT]

The TU-282 is not really 405, its a 250LPH pump is disguise, they are also known for fuel level sender issues.
The AEM 50-1000 is all the pump you need, fits in the stock hat and won't over stress the factory wiring. Change the fuel pump fuse to a 20 amp and you're good to go.
This is enough pump to ruin a stock internal engine and it will work with a BAP if you need more.
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-50-1000-...F8&qid=1524466691&sr=8-1&keywords=AEM+50-1000

Im running the 2200SL with the Deatchworks pump included in the Brenspeed package (340lph)
(stock internals for now-having a B326 built)

You're suggesting this AEM(320lph) piece over this Deatchworks?

 

[RocketcarX]

Im running the 2200SL with the Deatchworks pump included in the Brenspeed package (340lph)
(stock internals for now-having a B326 built)

You're suggesting this AEM(320lph) piece over this Deatchworks?

Apparently with the push back I’ve been getting from a vendor who formally recommended this pump your best bet is the Walbro 405. Personally I’ve not had any issues with AEM products and I use them for a lot of stuff. However that doesn’t mean everything they make is going to always work out.

 

[46addict]

Apparently with the push back I’ve been getting from a vendor who formally recommended this pump your best bet is the Walbro 405. Personally I’ve not had any issues with AEM products and I use them for a lot of stuff. However that doesn’t mean everything they make is going to always work out.

A few posts above you were saying the Walbro 405 isn't a true 405 so that steered me away from keeping mine and recommending it to others. So is AEM the next best thing?

 

[RocketcarX]

A few posts above you were saying the Walbro 405 isn't a true 405 so that steered me away from keeping mine and recommending it to others. So is AEM the next best thing?

I said the drop in TU-282 assembly is not a true 405, I like the AEM pump and it has worked fine for me. If you poke around with the search button you will see where is has been getting some negative feed back on the forum lately, so I said what I said as a form of "full disclosure".
The Walbro 405 replacement pump you have to install in the assembly yourself is the pump that is most recommended from what I now understand.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/w-f90000262.htm