Disabling ABS and Traction Control

Discussion in 'Drift Racing Tech Discussion' started by bennybutcher, Apr 12, 2017.

  1. bennybutcher

    bennybutcher Junior Member

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    Normally, when I arrive at the track to keep the babysitter from trying to kill me, I disable the ABS/Traction Control by disconnecting the wheel speed sensor on the front passenger side.

    I initially attempted drifting without doing this, by just hitting the TCS button for 10 seconds, out of gear, with the break pedal depressed, and it was marginally successful.

    Unplugging the wheel speed sensor seems to do the trick perfectly. I'm looking for a way to do it better. Like wiring up a toggle switch with a 40 amp inline fuse that's wired into the eternal fuse box?

    If anyone has already done this and cares to share that would be awesome.

    The idea is to make it easier to get the car on the track while maintaining the ability to use it safely on the street. Basically I'm trying to be mediocre at everything. I'll post a guide if I figure out the right way to do this before anyone gets back to me. I've got a decent idea, I mostly want to know if anyone has already done it, and if there are any pitfalls I ought to be aware of?
     
  2. redfirepearlgt

    redfirepearlgt forum member

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    A 40 amp relay would definitely be overkill. A 5 amp relay with two pairs of NC contacts would be ideal. Mounting the relay as close as possible to the ABS unit would likely be your best bet. The ABS module on 2011+ cars (assuming yours is this based on description of how you disable traction control) is up front on the right side under the hood. You could tie in there. Disable the sensor using both wires would be my suggestion to completely isolate it out of circuit. Energize the coil to take it out of circuit, remove power (flipping switch off) to return the car to normal operating model. The wires at the ABS for the passenger side front are color coded violet and and gray with violet stripe. Another idea to keep from hacking wiring up if you could find the connectors would be to wire it in at the sensor end.

    That's how I would do it if I were doing that.
     
  3. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    That eternal relay gone kill you
     
  4. bennybutcher

    bennybutcher Junior Member

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    :yaoface:
     
  5. bennybutcher

    bennybutcher Junior Member

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    ABS/TCS/ESC/RSC fully disabled (I think.)

    So this is the equivalent of pulling the ABS fuse. I'm not sure that this fully disables the baby sitter, but all of the right lights come on when I flip the switch to off that would be on if I were to disconnect the wheel speed sensor. I'll test it at the track and let y'all know.

    This is a complete list of tools and supplies you'll need to complete this project.

    You will need channellocks, dykes, needle nose pliers, a small saw or cutting tool, a 2 pin round rocker switch (on/off, no light.), a tin of mini blade 30amp fuses, 1 spool of 18 gauge wire, 1 inline mini blade fuse holder, Heat Shrink Solder Butt Connectors, Heat Shrink Tubing, Spade Terminals. To take apart the center console you will need a phillips head screw driver, a 10mm deep socket, and a 7mm socket.

    [​IMG]

    To start you’ll need to pull the metal out of the fuse. Grip the fuse with the channellocks.
    [​IMG]

    Using the needle nose pliers pull the metal bits out of the blade fuse.
    [​IMG]

    Once done you’ll be able to trim the bits of metal with the dykes and straighten them back out with the needle nose pliers.
    [​IMG]

    Take the plastic mini blade husk and saw it in half making sure to leave the bottom half with its pegs intact.
    [​IMG]

    I wasn’t able to finish taking pics, so I drew it for you.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Feed the wires from the fuse box, around the back of the battery and through the firewall.
    [​IMG]

    Feed the wires through the center console along the same path as the wiring for the auxiliary port or center console cigarette lighter.
    [​IMG]

    Once the wires have been fed through connect the spade terminals to the leads. Drill a hole big enough to fit the round rocker switch in the center console... If you use the coin holder you will have to file the edge of the coin holder, or the edge of the switch, to get the switch to fit. I clearly made the wrong choice. ;)
    [​IMG]

    The connector you built at the beginning of the tutorial will be plugged into the exterior fusebox in place of the ABS fuse. Here is the location.
    [​IMG]

    If anyone wants more detailed pics of everything let me know and I'll take the time to make a better guide.
     
  6. Wes06

    Wes06 forum member

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    that seems a bit jank of a way to cut it out tbh.
    Id rather leave the fuse and have the wire past it spliced with a relay to cut the signal
     
  7. bennybutcher

    bennybutcher Junior Member

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    Honestly until yesterday I didn't know enough about what you're talking about to even reply. You're right, that's a good idea. I'll post a tutorial after I get everything together. It's not really that complicated, but it's intimidating if you've never done this stuff before.

    Basically I need an SPDT (single pole double throw) relay so that I can wire a switch into that, powering it is another issue but I'll figure out if there's something I can tap into. It's certainly the safest way to make this thing work.

    An SPDT has has 3 circuits, one connected to pins 85 and 86 to operate an electromagnet switch. One NO (naturally open) connection 87, which we will use to power the wee light on the rocker switch, and one NC (naturally closed) connection 87a, which we will use as the primary circuit because it's on when the switch is off.

    30 is the common connection between 87 and 87a. This will be connected to the + side of the wires going into the external fuse box to the ABS fuse.

    Does this make sense, or am I missing something? Any idea which wire it is I'm looking for? Betty is an 07 GT. Any idea if there's a system I can tap into to provide power to the relay?
     
  8. Wes06

    Wes06 forum member

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    no that sounds correct. and is a much less jank option.

    you can even keep the wires going into the body for the switch, and just connect them to a power source and the relay then ground it.
    then use the NC 87a and 30 to leave the TC active, then switch it for track use
     
  9. bujeezus

    bujeezus forum member

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    So after all this time,Wes, I finally get your avatar. Lol! Just started watchin the show here recently.
     

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