Hey Guys I heard this forum has some good tech guys floatin around so here goes nuttin. Thank you for any Advise!!!!
08 GT500
Quick Mod list: Upper, Lower, Posi Port, Steeda intake, OffroadX, Afco etc..
Installed the KB Competition 20.V Boost A Pump. Which was Installed the Night before the dyno as Instructed Except for One thing..... When We ran the wires up front for the Hobbs switch which reads boost and Vacuum we just twisted the two wires togehter Basically activating the Boost a Pump at full kick all the time. We figured in the Morning my tuner would either 1. Tune the car with it on like this, or 2. Just hook up the Hobbs switch. Ok Nxt morning I drove the car 200+ miles to my tuner, when we arrived I showed him where we deviated from the Instructions and he said it probably wouldnt matter since the BAP is wired in Before the Fuel Pump Driver Modules so we tuned It like Installed. After 4 hours on the Dyno of tuning the Drivabilily etc the Car was spot ON!! 625rwhp 622rwtq with the Pumps operating at only 68% Duty Cycle at WOT. Soo... I tear out Back onto the Highyway Blew the tires away alll the way threw 2nd and half way into 3rd the car fell on its face at about 4500rpm... hmmm.. turned around pulled back into shop. Popped the Hood and low and behold.. the top of the very front driverside injector had pushed the fuel rail up exposeing the oring misting fuel out!!!!!!!!! WTF!! Ive never had these fuel rails off and the car has 9k miles on it!! Im quite sure it takes an EXTREME amount of Fuel Rail Pressure for this to happen.. I just dnt know how? Ok, So nxt We pull the plug on that Cylinder, check it. Put a new oring on injecter and reseat it. Now we attempt to make a Pull on the dyno and have to shut down way early due to only 11psi of fuel pressure coming to the rails.....After checking all fuel connections over and over my tuner said that we may have Overdrivin one of the pumps when it tried to compensate for the lean conditon caused when injecter blew... Soooo we tryed to limp back home on one pump and after 100 miles the second one goes out.. Sweet.... after waiting 30min for Ford Roadside to come I try and crank the car and it starts up and Idles fine! Hmmm...but then 20 min later car starts shaking and kills... so. We called Kenne Bell and they Said that you cant just bypass the Hobbs switch an direct wire it "on all the time" on the 20v Comp. Kit because its to much voltage for the pumps, but my question is...Its still gotta go through the FPDMs before the pumps.. Soooo The car is on the rack right now getting a Brand new Sender Unit with new Pumps and Im goin to hook up the hobbs switch then bring it back to my tuner to get tuned on the switch. Question Is.. Does what kenne bell said make sense, about not being able to just twist the two wire together and tune it like that? Surely Someone has tried this before no? And What the heck would cause the pressure in the fuel rail to get high enough to lift off that injector? If you have read all of this thank you so much for your time! Any advise greatly appreciated!!!! _John.
08 GT500
Quick Mod list: Upper, Lower, Posi Port, Steeda intake, OffroadX, Afco etc..
Installed the KB Competition 20.V Boost A Pump. Which was Installed the Night before the dyno as Instructed Except for One thing..... When We ran the wires up front for the Hobbs switch which reads boost and Vacuum we just twisted the two wires togehter Basically activating the Boost a Pump at full kick all the time. We figured in the Morning my tuner would either 1. Tune the car with it on like this, or 2. Just hook up the Hobbs switch. Ok Nxt morning I drove the car 200+ miles to my tuner, when we arrived I showed him where we deviated from the Instructions and he said it probably wouldnt matter since the BAP is wired in Before the Fuel Pump Driver Modules so we tuned It like Installed. After 4 hours on the Dyno of tuning the Drivabilily etc the Car was spot ON!! 625rwhp 622rwtq with the Pumps operating at only 68% Duty Cycle at WOT. Soo... I tear out Back onto the Highyway Blew the tires away alll the way threw 2nd and half way into 3rd the car fell on its face at about 4500rpm... hmmm.. turned around pulled back into shop. Popped the Hood and low and behold.. the top of the very front driverside injector had pushed the fuel rail up exposeing the oring misting fuel out!!!!!!!!! WTF!! Ive never had these fuel rails off and the car has 9k miles on it!! Im quite sure it takes an EXTREME amount of Fuel Rail Pressure for this to happen.. I just dnt know how? Ok, So nxt We pull the plug on that Cylinder, check it. Put a new oring on injecter and reseat it. Now we attempt to make a Pull on the dyno and have to shut down way early due to only 11psi of fuel pressure coming to the rails.....After checking all fuel connections over and over my tuner said that we may have Overdrivin one of the pumps when it tried to compensate for the lean conditon caused when injecter blew... Soooo we tryed to limp back home on one pump and after 100 miles the second one goes out.. Sweet.... after waiting 30min for Ford Roadside to come I try and crank the car and it starts up and Idles fine! Hmmm...but then 20 min later car starts shaking and kills... so. We called Kenne Bell and they Said that you cant just bypass the Hobbs switch an direct wire it "on all the time" on the 20v Comp. Kit because its to much voltage for the pumps, but my question is...Its still gotta go through the FPDMs before the pumps.. Soooo The car is on the rack right now getting a Brand new Sender Unit with new Pumps and Im goin to hook up the hobbs switch then bring it back to my tuner to get tuned on the switch. Question Is.. Does what kenne bell said make sense, about not being able to just twist the two wire together and tune it like that? Surely Someone has tried this before no? And What the heck would cause the pressure in the fuel rail to get high enough to lift off that injector? If you have read all of this thank you so much for your time! Any advise greatly appreciated!!!! _John.
