Engine Tick?

Jdd08

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I started hearing this sound yesterday from my 05 GT. It’s prominent when slowing down but also happens when speeding up, as you can hear from the revs. I’ve read a lot about the lash adjuster or valve train issues on these vehicles. Mine is about to hit 100,000 miles. Does it sound like that’s what I’m dealing with here?

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/II5g8sykUvg
 

msvela448

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Does your tachometer not work? It shows 0 RPM at the same time as the video has the sound of a running engine.

Otherwise, it does kind of sound like valve train noise. The lash adjusters (and the entire VVT system, and the timing chain tensioners) work off of oil pressure, so a lack of oil pressure can cause excessive noise and wear in those components.

The reason oil pressure would be low is often due to a worn oil pump, or significant main bearing and rod bearing wear which results in large(r) gap in the crankshaft journals that the oil can escape from. There is also the possibility of oil leaking from around the timing chain tensioners, causing pressure to bleed off.

For diagnosis, start with cheap / free things first... Is the car full of oil? Is the oil the proper weight (5W30)? Has the filter been changed (use a Motorcraft FL820S). Does the car have any stored codes in the PCM?

If all those things are good to go, then you might pull the valve covers and see if anything is loose... Are all the cam followers snug between the lash adjusters and the cam lobes? Are all the cam follower rollers in good condition and not loose on their needle bearings?

If that's good to go then you probably need to pull the front cover to check all those components (timing chain assembly... : guides, chains, tensioners, gears, etc.) and while you have it torn down that far you should replace the oil pump with a high volume one.

Hope you figure it out.

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Dino Dino Bambino

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All good advice from @msvela448.
The ticking in that video does sound very much like a failing cam follower. It's rather early to have that problem at just 100k miles and I suspect a previous owner might have either thrashed the engine a bit too often or neglected oil changes.
I also noticed that your temperature gauge is above halfway in addition to the tachometer not working. Has your engine recently started running hotter than normal? Does the cooling fan switch on normally? You may merely have bad stepper motors on both of those two gauges but you'd definitely want to rule out a potential overheating problem.
If you're planning to keep the car long term, you'll have to dig deep into your pockets to buy this shopping list of parts to fix your problems and prevent future catastrophic engine damage.

1. A pack of four or six new x27 stepper motors from eBay.
2. VCT solenoids.
3. Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V.
4. Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V.
5. New OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A) with new OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA.

While the oil pan is off, I'd advise you to inspect the rod bearings. If the engine's suffered previous abuse, they may show advanced wear and even if you replace all the parts I listed above, you could still have low oil pressure problems due to excessive bearing clearances.
 

Jdd08

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Does your tachometer not work? It shows 0 RPM at the same time as the video has the sound of a running engine.

Otherwise, it does kind of sound like valve train noise. The lash adjusters (and the entire VVT system, and the timing chain tensioners) work off of oil pressure, so a lack of oil pressure can cause excessive noise and wear in those components.

The reason oil pressure would be low is often due to a worn oil pump, or significant main bearing and rod bearing wear which results in large(r) gap in the crankshaft journals that the oil can escape from. There is also the possibility of oil leaking from around the timing chain tensioners, causing pressure to bleed off.

For diagnosis, start with cheap / free things first... Is the car full of oil? Is the oil the proper weight (5W30)? Has the filter been changed (use a Motorcraft FL820S). Does the car have any stored codes in the PCM?

If all those things are good to go, then you might pull the valve covers and see if anything is loose... Are all the cam followers snug between the lash adjusters and the cam lobes? Are all the cam follower rollers in good condition and not loose on their needle bearings?

If that's good to go then you probably need to pull the front cover to check all those components (timing chain assembly... : guides, chains, tensioners, gears, etc.) and while you have it torn down that far you should replace the oil pump with a high volume one.

Hope you figure it out.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

Tach has never worked since I bought the car about a year ago. I suspected I may need to pull the cover to see what’s going on. I’ve kept up with all maintenance since I’ve had it. Only one prior owner (female), who drove it very little, thus the low miles. Im worried this will be quite an expensive venture and money isn’t great right now.
 

Jdd08

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All good advice from @msvela448.
The ticking in that video does sound very much like a failing cam follower. It's rather early to have that problem at just 100k miles and I suspect a previous owner might have either thrashed the engine a bit too often or neglected oil changes.
I also noticed that your temperature gauge is above halfway in addition to the tachometer not working. Has your engine recently started running hotter than normal? Does the cooling fan switch on normally? You may merely have bad stepper motors on both of those two gauges but you'd definitely want to rule out a potential overheating problem.
If you're planning to keep the car long term, you'll have to dig deep into your pockets to buy this shopping list of parts to fix your problems and prevent future catastrophic engine damage.

1. A pack of four or six new x27 stepper motors from eBay.
2. VCT solenoids.
3. Ford Performance Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster Kit: M-6529-3V.
4. Ford Performance Camshaft Drive Kit: M-6004-463V.
5. New OEM '13-'14 Shelby GT500 high pressure oil pump (Ford part no. DR3Z6600A) with new OEM 3V oil pump pickup tube (Ford part no. 4R3Z6622AA.

While the oil pan is off, I'd advise you to inspect the rod bearings. If the engine's suffered previous abuse, they may show advanced wear and even if you replace all the parts I listed above, you could still have low oil pressure problems due to excessive bearing clearances.

The temp gauge stays at that point, about 3/4 of the way over after the car has warmed up. It’s been that way since I bought it.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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The temp gauge stays at that point, about 3/4 of the way over after the car has warmed up. It’s been that way since I bought it.

If you have an infrared temperature gun, point it at the upper radiator hose when the engine's hot and let us know what you find. At least we'll know if there's either an actual cooling system problem or if you merely have a faulty gauge stepper motor.
The gauge needle should sit bang in the middle when the engine reaches the stock thermostat opening temperature of 192*F (89*C) and stay there.
 

msvela448

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If money is tight... you could try changing the oil for some 10W40 to see if that helps.

But run some BG 109 through it first to do an oil "flush": https://www.amazon.com/cans-EPR-Eng...&qid=1690988434&sprefix=BG+EPR,aps,181&sr=8-7 just in case there's any sludge build-up that could be restricting the pick-up tube screen, or any of the small passages in the oiling system.

"BG EPR cleans micro passageways to maintain the critical hydraulic function of components such as valve train actuators"

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Jdd08

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If money is tight... you could try changing the oil for some 10W40 to see if that helps.

But run some BG 109 through it first to do an oil "flush": https://www.amazon.com/cans-EPR-Engine-Performance-Restoration/dp/B07TJ1L1TJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=1KO6UZTXH0GP0&keywords=bg+epr+engine+flush&qid=1690988434&sprefix=BG+EPR,aps,181&sr=8-7 just in case there's any sludge build-up that could be restricting the pick-up tube screen, or any of the small passages in the oiling system.

"BG EPR cleans micro passageways to maintain the critical hydraulic function of components such as valve train actuators"

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

A friend and I are gonna take a look at the rocker arms and followers this weekend.
 

MrBhp

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That's classic broken cam follower/lash adjuster noise. Sounds like you've got a dead hole, and your hitting on 7.
 

Jdd08

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Update: pulled the valve cover. The follower at cylinder three was completely chewed up. The roller ball was locked and not rolling at all. The bad news is that the cam was also damaged, likely because of the damaged roller. So, I'll be replacing several items that will make a nice dent in my wallet.
 

dark steed

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Mine has developed a pretty loud tick on the left bank as well. My plan is to replace all of the lash adjusters when I replace the cams. It sounds like it’s time to start on that project.


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GlassTop09

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Update: pulled the valve cover. The follower at cylinder three was completely chewed up. The roller ball was locked and not rolling at all. The bad news is that the cam was also damaged, likely because of the damaged roller. So, I'll be replacing several items that will make a nice dent in my wallet.
Hi Jdd08,

Please tell us that you also pulled the other valve cover & checked all this there too.................you typed valve cover.......not valve covers. I pray this is a typo.........

You don't want to go thru a quick repeat of this........the next time may be much worse.......

Just trying to be helpful here.........
 

Jdd08

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Hi Jdd08,

Please tell us that you also pulled the other valve cover & checked all this there too.................you typed valve cover.......not valve covers. I pray this is a typo.........

You don't want to go thru a quick repeat of this........the next time may be much worse.......

Just trying to be helpful here.........

only pulled the passenger side. I’ll look at the other one before I put it all back together. Looks like I won’t be driving it for awhile anyway.
 

JC SSP

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This is a common problem with a simple solution.

Please document and post pics of the step/by-step process if you can. It would benefit a lot of us….

Thanks in advance.
 

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