Enlighten me on LSD

[BlackSnakeMoan]

Change my rear tires and got 275/40/r18 n555 but i still cant seem to solve the traction problem. I mean my car doesnt hook up well from a dig.

Heard the lsd (limited slip differential) will help significantly. What do u guys think? and what is the best lsd brand? (money is not a problem)

Also can u suggest wht else i can do to improve traction from a dip. (already have lca and uca)

Nasser

 

[don_w]

First of all, the stock rear end is an LSD.

Secondly, it would help a lot to know more about your car. What mods (engine, suspension, trans, gears, etc)?

 

[BlackSnakeMoan]

i currently have jlt cai, bama tune, pi tc, lca, and uca.
About the lsd...i rad that there are some who change there lsd and get a tru-trac.
I really dont have any idea about lsd but from what i've understood that it can help solve "the wheel spining without hooking"

 

[Hawgman]

Lysergic acid diethylamide, LSD, LSD-25, or acid, is a semisynthetic psychedelic drug of the ergoline family. Probably the best known psychedelic, it has been used mainly as a recreational drug, an entheogen, and a tool to supplement various practices for transcendence, including in meditation, psychonautics, art projects, and illicit (though at one time legal) psychedelic psychotherapy, whether self-administered or not. It is synthesized from lysergic acid derived from ergot, a grain fungus that typically grows on rye and was first synthesized by Swiss chemist Albert Hofmann. The short form LSD comes from its early codename LSD-25, which is an abbreviation for the German "Lysergsäure-diethylamid" followed by a sequential number.[1][2]
LSD is sensitive to oxygen, ultraviolet light, and chlorine, especially in solution, though its potency may last years if it is stored away from light and moisture at low temperature. In pure form it is colorless, odorless and mildly bitter.[2] LSD is typically delivered orally, usually on a substrate such as absorbent blotter paper, a sugar cube, or gelatin. In its liquid form, it can be administered by intramuscular or intravenous injection. The threshold dosage level needed to cause a psychoactive effect on humans is of the order of 20 to 30 µg (micrograms).
Introduced by Sandoz Laboratories as a drug with various psychiatric uses, LSD quickly became a therapeutic agent that appeared to show great promise. However, the extra-medicinal use of the drug in Western society during the mid-twentieth century led to a political firestorm that resulted in the banning of the substance for medicinal as well as recreational and spiritual uses. Despite this, the drug is still considered in some intellectual circles to show a great deal of promise as a medicinal substance.[3] A number of organizations—including the Beckley Foundation, MAPS, Heffter Research Institute and the Albert Hofmann Foundation—exist to fund, encourage and coordinate research into its medicinal uses.[4]

 

[matt texass]

The lsd or tru trac won't solve your traction that will only solve a problem if you have trouble spinning both tires. You might try some drop brackets.

 

[94tbird]

you beat me to it hawg haha

 

[cekim]

it can help solve "the wheel spining without hooking"

Not really, as Don said, true-trac will prevent one tire spinning while the other has no power, but that likely isn't your problem...

On the street, DRs help, but basically the street always has lousy traction - soaked with gas and oil and unlike the track, not prepped with VHT and fresh rubber....

On the track, the principle tools of traction are:
1. air pressure - lower until you hook - depends on the tire, but 17" DRs, I have at ~12-14 PSI depending on track temp below that without a blower/turbo either hooks too much or doesn't help.
2. shocks - prevent body roll and squat
3. suspension - see #2 - anti-squats
4. clutch or torque converter stall change:
a. clutch - feather it - don't drop it
b. torque converter - select stall speed to match the rest of your setup, select launch RPM to maximize engine torque and traction...
5. burnout/tires - get sticky tires - as wide as you can fit on your rim - heat them up...

 

[nmeofdst82]

5. as wide as you can fit on your rim

That reminds me,
Whats the widest you can safely put on the Chrome 18" GT/CS rims? I think there 18 x 8.5 (sadly I'm not sure).

 

[don_w]

On the street, DRs help, but basically the street always has lousy traction - soaked with gas and oil and unlike the track, not prepped with VHT and fresh rubber....

+1!

My Nittos would break loose at 30-40mph and let the ass end go sideways on me. But since I've switched to the M&H DRs, that's no longer a problem... well, except on rainy days like today. Then it's a white knuckle adventure ride!

 

[rog06gt]

You also need LCA's relocation bracket, read on about instant center on page 3, even tough they discuss a 4 link setup, the idea behind the instant center is the same...
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0402_rear_suspensions_increased_traction/index2.html

 

[Hawgman]

+1!

Then it's a white knuckle adventure ride!

Tell me about it. I am driving up to Colby Ks tomorrow and they are going to have snow.

 

[psfracer]

i currently have jlt cai, bama tune, pi tc, lca, and uca.
About the lsd...i rad that there are some who change there lsd and get a tru-trac.
I really dont have any idea about lsd but from what i've understood that it can help solve "the wheel spining without hooking"

The only way the tru-trac will be an improvement is if your stock differential is going south. I still have the stock differential, just replaced the clutches once so far.

Is your car lowered? If so, make sure your LCA's (when looking at the side of the car) are higher in the front and lower in the back where they bolt to the rearend. Depending on how much your lowered, if the back of the LCA is actually even or higher from the ground then the front of the LCA--that will make your traction worse then stock. Relocation brackets, with the LCA bolted on the lowest bolt adjustment will work best for drag applications.

Also--is your UCA adjustable? If so go with a more aggressive pinion angle (-2 degrees). I run -4 degrees. 50/50 drag shocks also make a big difference.

Lastly--a good DR will make a world of difference. Most people want a good handling tire which also has good wet traction, gets good mileage, and good straight line traction. Once your around 450-550 rwhp--that tire simply doesn't exist. If you go with Nittos (good mileage and wet traction), then dry traction from a dig sucks. If you go with the M&H then straight line dry is awesome, but they suck in the rain. Either get another set of rear wheels (I have another set, same style) so when you go to the track or want traction on the street you can run the DR---and when your just driving to work you can run the Nitto or whatever.

 

[BlackSnakeMoan]

i have adj. lca and solid uca. Should i change my uca to adjustable? will going for a more agressive angle pinion angle make a noticable difference?

 

[rog06gt]

It appears that you are not lowered and that both wheels are spinning on take off then focus on the LCA's relocation bracket...that will help your traction issue.