EPAS testing on 07GT

eighty6gt

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The real coup would be finding out how to burn the FRPP programming into a run of the mill rack.
 

modernbeat

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The real coup would be finding out how to burn the FRPP programming into a run of the mill rack.

I spoke to Ford Racing about doing exactly that. The actual engineer there that does it told me it could not be done on a used rack because of learned behavior in the programming. Hence, the Ford Racing racks are new EPAS racks with Ford Racing programming.

I've heard of a shop that does reprogram the racks, but have not seen it or experienced it myself. Take it with a grain of salt.

If the FR rack is too expensive, you can substitute a 2012+ rack. The programming is different than both the 2011 and the Ford Racing rack, but we have not had any issues with a 2012 rack transplanted in a 2011 car, even with the bushing swap and wide, sticky tires. But if you afford the FR rack, that's the one I recommend because they turn off all the "smart" nibble behavior.
 

zquez

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So you said the harness has an inline fuse that's 100 amps. Is this specifically for the rack or just for the whole harness since it replaces the whole battery harness. I'm in the process of doing a battery relocation atm and I'm using a 100 amp circuit breaker. I really want to do the EPAS swap but I'm just trying to get a better idea of the wiring before I finalize my battery relocation plans.
 

lito

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Here is the maxi fuse on the battery connector that comes with that harness.
8fc8226b266b0727eee84e0089ff6413.jpg


Sent from my ASUS_Z00TD using Tapatalk
 

zquez

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Nice. Thanks, that helps a lot. Now if I could just find the second pigtail for the rack...
 

zquez

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For those of you wondering, I was able to successfully accomplish this project as well, and it's awesome. No write-up was necessary provided you can read some wiring diagrams, know how to splice wires, and know the information Lito has already presented here. Big thanks to Lito for pioneering the way.
 

lito

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For those of you wondering, I was able to successfully accomplish this project as well, and it's awesome. No write-up was necessary provided you can read some wiring diagrams, know how to splice wires, and know the information Lito has already presented here. Big thanks to Lito for pioneering the way.

I know this is expensive, don't save any weight but I just love it, is one of the best mods I've done to my car, I don't know if you feel/think the same.

Lito is the man!

Lol, I love you too! now, finish those cars! haha.
 

RocketcarX

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So a 3v car could run an later model EPAS rack and eliminate the whole PS system? Seems like it might be a cleaner install over all without a weight penalty. Is the idea to start with the Ford Racing rack and basically wire it in?
 

lito

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Yes and yes.

We have had issues with non FRPP rack so we used these ones without issues, also, there is no way to change the behavior and IIRC it defaults in comfort which is too soft for my taste, the FRPP calibration is great.
 

eighty6gt

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For those of you wondering, I was able to successfully accomplish this project as well, and it's awesome. No write-up was necessary provided you can read some wiring diagrams, know how to splice wires, and know the information Lito has already presented here. Big thanks to Lito for pioneering the way.

What rack did you end up using?

I'm planning on making my own harness, since I am also rewiring the fan system.

Will look in the Ford pigtail catalog to see if I can get the connectors there. Otherwise can make them - machine out of phenolic/plastic material.
 

zquez

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I know this is expensive, don't save any weight but I just love it, is one of the best mods I've done to my car, I don't know if you feel/think the same.

So coming from poly bushings to stock bushings and a 2014 rack I felt it was a little mushy. I figure adding poly bushings back to the mix will make it better, but then I'll probably need to get the FRPP rack for sure. I did this mod mostly for packaging and to get rid of drag on the motor, and the novelty of it all. That said, I'm very happy with how it turned out.
 

zquez

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What rack did you end up using?

I'm planning on making my own harness, since I am also rewiring the fan system.

Will look in the Ford pigtail catalog to see if I can get the connectors there. Otherwise can make them - machine out of phenolic/plastic material.

I used a 2014 rack. I wasn't able to find the connectors by themselves so I just bought the harness that Lito talked about in this thread. I ended up using several connectors and the battery fuses off of it so it was a good investment. Once I pulled out the wires I needed, I integrated them into my engine harness.
 

Pentalab

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So coming from poly bushings to stock bushings and a 2014 rack I felt it was a little mushy. I figure adding poly bushings back to the mix will make it better, but then I'll probably need to get the FRPP rack for sure. I did this mod mostly for packaging and to get rid of drag on the motor, and the novelty of it all. That said, I'm very happy with how it turned out.

If the rack has a 100A fuse feeding it, what is the actual, typ current draw when in use ? You are taking a load off the engine fead by dumping the oem hydrualic system.... then placing an additional electrical load onto the alternator.... which hangs off the same fead. How much overall improvement is there ?
 

lito

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If the rack has a 100A fuse feeding it, what is the actual, typ current draw when in use ? You are taking a load off the engine fead by dumping the oem hydrualic system.... then placing an additional electrical load onto the alternator.... which hangs off the same fead. How much overall improvement is there ?
When you are going on straight line it is not a representative load, only when you turn, the hydraulic pump is a constant load even on straight line. I made about 10rwhp more with it.

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eighty6gt

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I used a 2014 rack. I wasn't able to find the connectors by themselves so I just bought the harness that Lito talked about in this thread. I ended up using several connectors and the battery fuses off of it so it was a good investment. Once I pulled out the wires I needed, I integrated them into my engine harness.

ah so that starter harness has the plug for the can-bus connection as well as the high amp - thanks for the info
 

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