Factory Amps Question!! 09 GT/CS factory shaker 500

[Bnbstang]

I know this has been asked before, but I can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. I bought a new headunit and I also bought both Idata kits, as well as what I thought was an amplifier bypass harness from Metra "I believe its the 5513" which doesn't work for my system. I'm putting in a new system from front to back with new amps and I want to bypass "not retain" the factory amps. Does anybody make a harness for this without me having to hack up my harness?? I wanted to utilize the speaker wires for the doors, without running new because its a total pain! Now, I understand the Idata, retains the factory amps, but the only thing I wanted to retain is the factory Sirius, and hopefully the plugs inside the console. I have yet to begin with this, so if anybody has any ideas please let me know. Most threads I'm finding is hooking into the factory amps, which is not what I'm doing. Please let me know, thanks

 

[Bnbstang]

I couldnt seem to find a more convienient place to stick this. It is a tech question. I sho

 

[Bnbstang]

I find it hard to believe I'm the only one with this issue? If you have a hack, then please let me know. Crutchfield/ and Sonic couldn't even tell me what to do in this case? I have all the gear, just waiting on this. I'm doing a Kenwood HU, 4 Cerwin Vegas, 2 MTX 8" in the doors "yes they fit after a little warm up of the plastic and pushed the side out about .25", 1 Rockford P3 10" in the trunk, with custom built glass and MDF box. 2 Power acoustics razor series " this leaves room for addons" most likely under the seat, do to the fact that I live in an area where we hit 120 in the summer months. The trunk may be just a little too warm for the amps back there.

 

[Bnbstang]

I guess knowbody has actually utilized the factory speaker wires for the front doors? Its apparent now that the door subs are the only things powered by the amps. Unplugging them just shut down the subs so this will make it easier to just run new wires to my new subs.

 

[cavero]

For the best sound quality, you really want thicker wire than what's in the factory wiring harness, especially when the speakers are being driven by amp. Using the factory wiring is like hooking up to a fire engine with a garden hose. But I get that's not always practical. I had a Focus that was a DD that I put a JL audio amp in and wanted to run the speaker wires direct from the amps into the doors, but it was nearly impossible because wire harness actually terminated at a plug at the door. So I had to cut the factory wires right by the door and tap into them. I had the amp in the trunk anyway so I couldn't reuse the factory wiring in its entirety.

If you can snake real speaker wires into your doors, I would definitely go that route. That'd be the hardest part about the install.

What kind of wattage are you looking at for the amp?

 

[cavero]

I guess knowbody has actually utilized the factory speaker wires for the front doors? Its apparent now that the door subs are the only things powered by the amps. Unplugging them just shut down the subs so this will make it easier to just run new wires to my new subs.

Yeah the speakers in the doors are driven by a small (15W RMS per channel) amp built into the Skipper 500 head unit. The subs are driven by the amps in the footwell.

 

[Bnbstang]

If you decide to utilize the factory wiring, you can use two of the wires in the top plug of the amps. To make life easyier, I suggest getting some blue "Posi-tap" connectors. They are much easier to use and you won't have to cut anything.