Failsafe mode after throttle body cleaning.

Hunter.shawnRN

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Pretty simple... Cleaned the Maf, cleaned the throttle body. Disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to reset the codes.

Now it either won't turn over.. Or turns over and skyrockets to 5k rpm. Then immediately stalls and dies. Absolutely no throttle response. Should I leave the battery unhooked longer? Am I gonna have to tow the car to get it reflashed? 05 mustang gt. K/N air filter. No other mods. Car was running okay before this. Just sluggish throttle response.
 

nawagner

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I know it's stupid to suggest but I've done it... Did you make sure all the connectors were plugged back in when done? Did you remove the throttle body and if so did you get all the bolts back in tight? All air tube clamps are tightened?
 

Hunter.shawnRN

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Everything seems to be buttoned up. I'm gonna try to leave the battery disconnected for longer and hope for a better result.. Coming from someone who has only owned chevy trucks.. This is completely foreign territory to me.


The throttle body was dirty as can be. I cleaned it well.

Another theory.. I didn't have the key to the off position when I killed the battery?

Any suggestions would be awesome. Thankyou.
 

Juice

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Have you scanned for codes/what codes do you have?

I was told by a mechanic friend to NEVER force the TB blade open for cleaning. Turn key on, engine off, and have a helper hold the gas pedal to the floor while cleaning the TB.

With the air intake off the TB, have a helper turn key on, but not start the car. Watch the throttle plate as the key is turned on. It should remain closed. Now have helper step on the gas, does the throttle plate open like it should?
 

Iceman62

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Have you scanned for codes/what codes do you have?

I was told by a mechanic friend to NEVER force the TB blade open for cleaning. Turn key on, engine off, and have a helper hold the gas pedal to the floor while cleaning the TB.

With the air intake off the TB, have a helper turn key on, but not start the car. Watch the throttle plate as the key is turned on. It should remain closed. Now have helper step on the gas, does the throttle plate open like it should?

^^^This^^^

When you cleaned the TB, did you mess with the blades?
 

rickf

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If you cleaned the throttle body on the car then it is flooded with cleaner and will need to clear out all of that before it will be able to run correctly. Hold pedal to floor and crank for a bit to clear flood and then let off pedal and try starting.
 

86GT351

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Have you scanned for codes/what codes do you have?

I was told by a mechanic friend to NEVER force the TB blade open for cleaning. Turn key on, engine off, and have a helper hold the gas pedal to the floor while cleaning the TB.

With the air intake off the TB, have a helper turn key on, but not start the car. Watch the throttle plate as the key is turned on. It should remain closed. Now have helper step on the gas, does the throttle plate open like it should?

Doing this actually damages the throttle Body. Unfortunately it needs to be replaced now.
 

rickf

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I have cleaned many, many throttle bodies over the years, mostly off of the vehicle and you have to open them to clean them. I have never had any issues. I do not see how you are going to damage a geared motor unless it is powered on and you are fighting the motor. If that is the case then yes, you will do damage then.
 

Hunter.shawnRN

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Been trying a couple different things today.

Here's my problem.

I cleaned the Maf completely alone... Pulled it.. Sprayed it.. Let it dry.. Disconnected the battery to clear the maf code. Let sit
. Reconnected the battery and turned the car over.. Engine failsafe mode.. Now my buddy had an f150 that did something similar and we rectified it by cleaning the throttle body. I did open the butterflies.. I wasn't rough by any means. My android connected code reader went to lunch and hasn't come back yet. Should have a new one in the mail tomorrow or Sunday.

All it wants to do is immediately start.. Skyrocket rpms.. Pretty sure my neighbors think I'm retarded at this point.. Then immediately fall and choke out.. Like it's not catching an idle at all. I just don't understand why it did it after the maf cleaning.. And remained after cleaning the tb.. I can only suspect that disconnecting the battery killed some memory that was important.
 

rickf

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You are going to need a scanner to read the data and see what the TPS is reading. If the throttle body was messed up it would throw a code because the TPS and pedal sensors would not jive. You need to completely wipe out the KAM and start from scratch on the memory. Disconnect the battery and turn on the light switch so that there is a draw on the system and leave it that way for a half hour or so. Then turn the lights off and hook up the battery and try that. If still the same you will need to see the data to see what is wrong. It cannot rev wide open without the throttle opening, no air, no rev.
You can try taking the intake tube off of the throttle body and turn the key on and have someone slowly push the pedal to the floor and let up and see if the plates go full closed to full open and back. Then try starting it with the tube off while watching the plates and see what they do, It might start or it might not but the plates should not open more than just a crack.
 

Hunter.shawnRN

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You are going to need a scanner to read the data and see what the TPS is reading. If the throttle body was messed up it would throw a code because the TPS and pedal sensors would not jive. You need to completely wipe out the KAM and start from scratch on the memory. Disconnect the battery and turn on the light switch so that there is a draw on the system and leave it that way for a half hour or so. Then turn the lights off and hook up the battery and try that. If still the same you will need to see the data to see what is wrong. It cannot rev wide open without the throttle opening, no air, no rev.
You can try taking the intake tube off of the throttle body and turn the key on and have someone slowly push the pedal to the floor and let up and see if the plates go full closed to full open and back. Then try starting it with the tube off while watching the plates and see what they do, It might start or it might not but the plates should not open more than just a crack.

Alright.. So I just disconnected the pos and negative terminals.. I'm going to let it sit and try that. I'm gonna grab my buddies tablet code reader tomorrow and will update if this doesn't work. Also.. I'm getting engine failsafe mode before I even turn over the car.. Like it's stuck there or the code is not clearing with disconnect of battery.. It happens regardless of if the maf sensor is plugged or not.. I'll have a helper tomorrow that will be able to help me check the throttle body. I appreciate all the help.

Any body want a Mustang haha? I'll sell it dirt cheap.
 

rickf

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Turn on a light switch, that will put a load on the system and be sure to drain and capacitors that are holding a charge. I use the headlights, I always forget to turn them off so that way as soon as I hook up the battery I see both the spark from the load and I see the lights on. Reminds me too turn them off. Also reminds me I am getting old and senile.:whistle1::whistle1:

Oh, hook the ground back up so the switch has a complete to ground in case there is anything left somewhere, it will have a place to ground out to.
 

rickf

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Another way to completely drain everything is to turn the key on with the positive cable disconnected. Be absolutely sure to turn that key OFF before hooking up the cable though so you don't spike the system. Put a note on the battery to turn off the key.
 

702GT

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Never heard of killing a TB by actuating the blades manually. I've sat around while my car was in pieces just dickin with the T-body blades. Usually I clean the T-body any time I've had it off the car, which is quite a few times, and when I clean it I get after it with the same CRC MAF cleaner and a toothbrush, pushing the blades open and cleaning around the blade shaft. I've never had issues with my T-body other than replacing a TPS once. You probably could damage the gearing if you were rough enough about it, or fighting the motor while it was online. But moving the blades while the T-body is unpowered will damage it? GTFO and leave the crack pipe behind. Someone lied to you.

OP, any harness or wire you touched needs to be closely inspected. Particularly any harnesses that you removed, such as MAF and TPS/Motor harness. Make sure you look at the pin side and make sure no pins both at the harness and the connector were damaged/bent/loose. Also to verify the TB is actuating properly, as stated above you'll need a helper to turn the car to "on" without starting. While you look at the throttle blades, no intake tube, just exposed. If the T-body opens and shuts, it's prepped for startup. With the key "on" you should have them push the gas pedal slowly, and make sure the throttle blades open accordingly. If all of that works, you need to either sit down with a meter and test your TPS sensor, or just replace it. When having sluggish throttle or bad throttle response, along with other throttle errors, it's a 50/50 bet as to it being a dirty throttle body or a failing/failed TPS sensor. I've never had issues with the T-body being dirty, but I have had to replace the TPS sensor before. It randomly would throw the wrench light at me, I'd shut the car down and restart and it would go away. Days later, it would throw the wrench again. Replaced the TPS and never had a wrench light again. Though I didn't notice bad throttle response before the wrench light.

If you go through the wiring, checking the T-body, checking the TPS, the only other place to look would be the gears. OEM gears don't have a reputation for being faulty, but it could be possible. There is a procedure to servicing them and keeping them clean, but it's important to inspect the gears to make sure none have stripped, in your case. I could see if a gear had stripped a portion of its teeth in the right spot would give you the issues you're describing.
 

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