Forged Rods/Pistons - Found two oil squirters in oil pan - HELP

[s197josh]

Car: 2011 Mustang GT
Location: Southern Indiana
Forged Internals: Manley Rods/Pistons at 10:1 compression - work was done by Roberts Precision Machine in Lexington KY (got this info from the previous owner)

I am in the process of replacing the OPG/CS and while I was fishing out the oil pickup tube bolt from the oil pan my magnet pulled out two oil squirters. I'm assuming clearances weren't checked fully and they ended up snapping off.

I'm at a crossroads. Between what I should actually do, and what I have the funds/capability to do. I don't have a lift, so dropping the k-member/motor is unlikely. I also don't have a hoist to pull the motor from the top. I have a vmp gen3r and return style fuel system I was going to install after I wrapped up the OPG/CS. I've got about $3k in reserves at this time for basically whatever.

I'm holding on continuing my build because I'm not positive how to proceed. Essentially, I'm looking for someone to pull my motor and do oil squirter deletes. The forged pistons shouldn't get too hot for the amount of pulls/driving I do (which isn't much). I wouldn't be opposed to putting squirters back in as long as the builder checked clearances for me. (Doesn't seem like this was done the first time or I wouldn't have found broken squirters).

It's a blessing and a curse that I dropped the damn bolt and then happened to find two broken squirters. Had I not dropped the bolt I wouldn't have found those, and I'd be none the wiser. Would more squirters break under boost down the road? Who knows.

So what are my options?
Can I leave the squirters broken as is & just drive the car since the pistons are forged and won't need a bunch of extra cooling for some pulls every now & then? Not sure what the remaining squirter looks like and if it matters since the oil may not be targeting directly into the cylinder anymore. Planning on running a 82mm pulley for 16 pounds of boost if that matters. (I feel like I know the answer to this, but I want to ask anyway).

&/OR

Do you know any engine builders near me that can give me a quote on pulling my motor, inspecting for further damage and doing oil squirter deletes or new oil squirter installs and clearances checked?

Thanks so much.

 

[OX1]

Didn't they eliminate the squirters after 2011 (or 12)??

 

[s197josh]

Didn't they eliminate the squirters after 2011 (or 12)??

The squirters were in both 11-12 but removed in the later half of 2012. Also removed for 13/14. But brought back in the gt500.

 

[Pentalab]

Story I got was the oil squirters were deleted..and replaced with pistons that had ceramic coatings on the undersides. That supposedly freed up 7 hp.

 

[SilBult]

A tech at Ford Performance MIGHT know just when oil squirters were deleted, but since you've already found two of them it's a pretty safe bet that your engine had them when it was assembled by the shop in Ky. My first concern is that since you found two of them, are there more of them in the pan that you didn't find? A bore scope could come in handy here. According to my service manual it is possible to pull the pan with the engine in the car, but it sounds like a real PITA. IMO oil squirters do a couple of things. First the obvious, they cool the bottoms of the piston and thus help to prevent detonation, a good thing. They also create internal oil leaks which takes some oil [ probably not too much ] away from critical areas like crankshaft bearings, cam journals, etc. Since at least two of your squirters are no longer in place, oil flow from where they were located is no longer being restricted by the squirter nozzles. I have no idea how much if any this increases the internal leakage. In this regard it's worth noting that the GT500 like all '18 and up coyotes has a 10 qt pan compared to the 8 qt. pan on earlier models. Good luck, maybe the shop that did the work can provide more info, or better yet some financial relief if you can get the engine to them.

 

[eighty6gt]

Buy an engine lift, jack stands, and a jack, one of those folding black tool kits (1/2 and 3/8 socket drives and metric sockets...) remove the engine, remove the pan, install the delete kit, installation is the reverse of removal.

Take lots of photos to send to the machine shop.

 

[Rich Grundza]

Buy an OTC engine support bar for 200 bucs and a couple of engine lifting hooks. I found a couple for 30 bucs that bolt right up to the engine on the front of the head on the drivers side and the back of the passenger head. They go right into the the hooks on the otc support bar you can raise lower with a ratchet wrench. Get a coulp of cheap harbor freight jack stand pads and support the front of the car on the pinch welds where you normally jack with the scissor jack. You have 16 bolts that take no time to remove. You may need to replace the tie rod ends, they tend to spin when you put it back together. I did it (dropped the k member) to put my kooks headers on. I can tell you its not that bad because I did it! Some of these forums tick me off as everyone said drop the k member but nobody would tell me how to support it. As a result, I don't trust a lot of what I read on these forums because of my experiences. If you wish to pursue I'll dig up everything I purchased to support the engine. once that K member is out of the way you can stick your head up there between the engine and the engine compartment.