Forging the 2012

[travelers]

Good suggestion. He’s not far from south jersey.

I’d suggest L&M, but last I heard, they aren’t doing R&Rs any more.

That was my first suggestion but Mike doesn't do that anymore. John called him.

 

[stkjock]

That was my first suggestion but Mike doesn't do that anymore. John called him.

Yea, I heard he stopped a few years back.

 

[JG-1]

Good suggestion. He’s not far from south jersey.

I’d suggest L&M, but last I heard, they aren’t doing R&Rs any more.

I tried L&M first. They don't do installs. They referred me to Wicked Motorsports. I can send an email to Lund to see what they recommend.

Wicked still hasn't gotten back to me.

 

[JG-1]

I was also thinking about these guys:
https://www.facebook.com/ellasautomotive/

Ellas did my headers and rear end on my car two years ago. They build race cars and they have a huge beautiful clean shop. They are local and was thinking of taking a ride over Monday.

Right now, I think I'm leaning towards a built engine with a twin turbo kit to make some big numbers.

 

[FL Skydiver]

I currently have a 2012 TVS car tuned by VMP making 622 rwhp. I have spoken to my tuner and I was thinking of doing rods and pistons next winter (too hot for wrenching in the garage in FL). I figure it will cost me around $5K to build a forged short block (non sleeved) doing all the work myself.

Then I came across the Aluminator short block for $5300. shipped. So now I am thinking Aluminator short block and just adding my blower, heads, oil pump ect. Looking for make around 900 rwhp.

 

[travelers]

I currently have a 2012 TVS car tuned by VMP making 622 rwhp. I have spoken to my tuner and I was thinking of doing rods and pistons next winter (too hot for wrenching in the garage in FL). I figure it will cost me around $5K to build a forged short block (non sleeved) doing all the work myself.

Then I came across the Aluminator short block for $5300. shipped. So now I am thinking Aluminator short block and just adding my blower, heads, oil pump ect. Looking for make around 900 rwhp.

No AC in the garage?????

 

[JG-1]

Well, looks like I'm going to stay on the stock block for now.

I will be ordering the VMP Gen 3 kit in the next few days. I briefly spoke with VMP and they said stay with the 92mm (11 psi) pulley with the stock internals. They say the 92mm is good with 91 or 93 octane.

I asked Beefcake (I'm ordering the kit through him), and he said I should be fine with the 88mm (12 psi) pulley. I explained I only use good 93 octane and I have a good flowing exhaust (1 7/8" LTHs, off-road h, lethal performance OTA pipes).

I'd really like to go with the smaller pulley. I'm willing to gamble a little.

Thoughts?

 

[stkjock]

have a reserve fund ready for if it does let go

 

[Gabe]

After spending over 10k on my current Whipple setup including the blower/injectors/other stuff (still running the stock longblock), I wish I just sold the car back in 2014 when I did all this tomfoolery and just got a GT500.
The torque is silly, even in stock form.
Different animal, comes with forged internals from the factory and a much better transmission.
I'd highly recommend looking at switching to a GT500.
My 608 rwhp GT is fun, my wife's 656 rwhp '08 GT500 is funner. It has a '13 TVS, '13 injectors, bigger TB and a CAI - stupid simple upgrades and easily over 650 rwhp.
I work on both, I drive both, and the torque of the Shelby always makes me giggle like a little girl.

One thing to remember about slapping a blower onto the GT: you'll be left with a car that will be harder to sell, harder to trade in, and the resale value will never get you back anything close to what you put in it for mods.

 

[JG-1]

I have no plans on ever selling the car.

 

[Gabe]

I have no plans on ever selling the car.

That's what we all say, lol.
But that time always comes, like death and taxes, it's inevitable.
I thought I'd never want to part with my '13 GT, then I drove my wife's GT500.
Better transmission, awesome torque, much better exhaust sound (no raspiness like every Coyote seems to "offer") ... just a different animal.
If you really want to never think of selling your car, don't ever drive a GT500, lol

 

[Pentalab]

After spending over 10k on my current Whipple setup including the blower/injectors/other stuff (still running the stock longblock), I wish I just sold the car back in 2014 when I did all this tomfoolery and just got a GT500.
The torque is silly, even in stock form.
Different animal, comes with forged internals from the factory and a much better transmission.
I'd highly recommend looking at switching to a GT500.
My 608 rwhp GT is fun, my wife's 656 rwhp '08 GT500 is funner. It has a '13 TVS, '13 injectors, bigger TB and a CAI - stupid simple upgrades and easily over 650 rwhp.
I work on both, I drive both, and the torque of the Shelby always makes me giggle like a little girl.

One thing to remember about slapping a blower onto the GT: you'll be left with a car that will be harder to sell, harder to trade in, and the resale value will never get you back anything close to what you put in it for mods.

Agreed. On the 05-10 cars, folks spend huge $$ on a blower setup. Then they window the block. Then they start again, but this time with a forged eng. Then the manual tranny lets go, then they stuff in the tranny from the GT-500, or a T-56, then more upgrades. Then they upgrade to 14" front rotor's..+ 4 piston calipers. Same deal with the 11+ GT cars, as you found out. They blow that up, then in goes the aluminator. Fellows are slowly trying to transform their GT's into GT-500's. A used GT-500 from any year would be a better starting platform. The GT-500 came with a warranty. The plane jane GT (any year) with any blower is a ticking time bomb.

I would not buy a used say 2012 GT with a VMP blower and 622 rwhp. With my luck, the eng would blow up 6 months later. Then the gong show begins...with an aluminator etc, replacing it. Of course with a shiny new forged (real eng) the boost is increased to the max, compounding the next weak link. Next up the MT-82 / 6R80 blows it's brains out. Ford didn't offer an automatic for the 13/14 GT-500 simply cuz their was no auto out there they could use..and still offer a warranty.

 

[eighty6gt]

4-5 years with a blown GT hopefully a couple more before I go to the built LS7/tranzilla, no regrets.

Gee whiz, has it been 6?

Anyway, all depends on what you want. With a 5.0, it's an even easier decision. Actually make power. Run some short gears.

 

[FL Skydiver]

No AC in the garage?????

No, and no doors or windows for side ventilation its like an oven in there. FL is 98 degrees every day and 99% humidity, I don't race in the summer either.

Agreed. On the 05-10 cars, folks spend huge $$ on a blower setup. Then they window the block. Then they start again, but this time with a forged eng. Then the manual tranny lets go, then they stuff in the tranny from the GT-500, or a T-56, then more upgrades. Then they upgrade to 14" front rotor's..+ 4 piston calipers. Same deal with the 11+ GT cars, as you found out. They blow that up, then in goes the aluminator. Fellows are slowly trying to transform their GT's into GT-500's. A used GT-500 from any year would be a better starting platform. The GT-500 came with a warranty. The plane jane GT (any year) with any blower is a ticking time bomb.

I would not buy a used say 2012 GT with a VMP blower and 622 rwhp. With my luck, the eng would blow up 6 months later. Then the gong show begins...with an aluminator etc, replacing it. Of course with a shiny new forged (real eng) the boost is increased to the max, compounding the next weak link. Next up the MT-82 / 6R80 blows it's brains out. Ford didn't offer an automatic for the 13/14 GT-500 simply cuz their was no auto out there they could use..and still offer a warranty.

That my friend is called drag racing, race break, fix repeat. lol

If you break it, you may lose heads or more. Me personally, I am going to upgrade before it kicks a rod.

 

[RocketcarX]

4-5 years with a blown GT hopefully a couple more before I go to the built LS7/tranzilla, no regrets.

Gee whiz, has it been 6?

Anyway, all depends on what you want. With a 5.0, it's an even easier decision. Actually make power. Run some short gears.

If you don't stop with this LS shiiiiiiiiiit, I swear to God!

 

[Gabe]

LS7's are nothing but time bombs regardless of how built they are.
At least from what I've seen.
Had a buddy with a "built LS7", almost 600 rwhp in a Vette, lasted about a year.

 

[Sky Render]

4-5 years with a blown GT hopefully a couple more before I go to the built LS7/tranzilla, no regrets.

 

[JG-1]

The VMP Gen 3 is ordered. Soon as it comes I'm sending it out to Mirror Finish Polishing.

 

[eighty6gt]

LS7's are nothing but time bombs regardless of how built they are.
At least from what I've seen.
Had a buddy with a "built LS7", almost 600 rwhp in a Vette, lasted about a year.

do a look around the blown up 4.6 builds on this site... I wish I had cataloged the links.

Summit sells the engine new for about 12k. I would trade any "valve issues" for the phasers and oil pumps that the ford camp is stuck with.

uff da!!

 

[skaarlaj]

I think the OP should just run the VMP gen 3 in the low-mid 600whp range for a while and go from there. He may decide 600+WHP is just what the doctor ordered, and that blower has plenty of room to grow if he decides to strengthen the motor at a later date, I would however invest in a return style fuel system, and injectors with room to grow at the same time he initially goes boosted. It will make everything that much safer and less BS to deal with when / if he decides to go built at a later date. Right now I have ID 1000's, and a Sai li fuel system, and a turbo on the way, and will be relieved of not having to invest yet again on fuel mods, when the turbo system finally arrives.