Issue with Steeda X11 balljoints / SLA Boss Comp LCA's

captdistraction

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I have a koni strut coming out for replacement, and while I was inspecting the suspension before disassembly, I found a lot of play in the tire while in the air. I was able to move it laterally about 1/4", and I could see the strut move relative with the wheel. I did some poking around and enlisted some help and could see that the ball joint seemed to have some play in it, on both my arms.

They were purchased in June, installed in July and have logged about 4500 miles (spent most of their time in a paint shop, long story). They were greased on install long with the bushings (they have a zerk on the bottom).

I called Steeda for support, they recommended regreasing them. I've done so and the play has tightened up some (to the point where play in the wheel can be felt, but its much more dampened and more like 1/32"), but my concern is that this is excessive, and that from the factory, the tolerance was much more tight (0-0.3 mm (0-0.012 in) per the service manual). Steering did clean up a bit, but now I'm curious how often they'd require regreasing, and how long until the grease is just pushed out letting the void/tolerance just open back up.

Steeda will take the arms in for inspection (I don't have any stockers) or I can buy another set, but I wanted to get some opinions before I move forward. I'm concerned that with just street use, this could be an issue with those balljoints, and they're not a fun part to replace (removing the rack is a huge PITA to get at the front LCA bolt). I have zero track miles on them, and I bought these arms for that specific purpose.

Also, are the balljoints serviceable as in can they be pressed out and replaced should I want to source a different brand? I wouldn't be as concerned if this was just one side, but being both isn't a good sign.
 

SoundGuyDave

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I've NEVER pulled the rack to drop the front LCA bolt... Drop the tie rod end at the knuckle, and shove the steering over to the opposite side, then push the tie rod as far up as you can get it by hand, and you CAN get a wobble-socket on there past the bellows...

All that said, I wouldn't trust the ball joints if there's that much play in them. Remember, these are race parts, and generally speaking, race parts on a street car equals short lifespan. Granted, 4500 miles is awfully short, unless you have horrendous roads or love hopping curbs, but...
 

sheizasosay

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Interesting. I was just PM'ing Zquez about his FRPP BOSS 302S arms and how they are holding up before this thread popped up. I been looking at arms and whether I should drill my spindle to put these arms in or just refit the arms I have with bushings and BJ or buy GT500 arms...etc. But Zquez bought the Boss 302S arms. Both Steeda and the FRPP BOSS 302S arms come with raised ball joints. What I don't know is if they are the same manufacturer for that BJ. I would think they would be. I am assuming that the OP didn't pull the BJ out and replace it with an X11 though. Apologies in advance if that is the case.

Steeda doesn't actually say "X11" in their ads; they say "The high-grade ball joints". One would think their would be a billiion hits on google about "Steeda boss competition arms installed"...but Zquez is the only other I know of.
 

BMR Tech

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I have a koni strut coming out for replacement, and while I was inspecting the suspension before disassembly, I found a lot of play in the tire while in the air. I was able to move it laterally about 1/4", and I could see the strut move relative with the wheel. I did some poking around and enlisted some help and could see that the ball joint seemed to have some play in it, on both my arms.

They were purchased in June, installed in July and have logged about 4500 miles (spent most of their time in a paint shop, long story). They were greased on install long with the bushings (they have a zerk on the bottom).

I called Steeda for support, they recommended regreasing them. I've done so and the play has tightened up some (to the point where play in the wheel can be felt, but its much more dampened and more like 1/32"), but my concern is that this is excessive, and that from the factory, the tolerance was much more tight (0-0.3 mm (0-0.012 in) per the service manual). Steering did clean up a bit, but now I'm curious how often they'd require regreasing, and how long until the grease is just pushed out letting the void/tolerance just open back up.

Steeda will take the arms in for inspection (I don't have any stockers) or I can buy another set, but I wanted to get some opinions before I move forward. I'm concerned that with just street use, this could be an issue with those balljoints, and they're not a fun part to replace (removing the rack is a huge PITA to get at the front LCA bolt). I have zero track miles on them, and I bought these arms for that specific purpose.

Also, are the balljoints serviceable as in can they be pressed out and replaced should I want to source a different brand? I wouldn't be as concerned if this was just one side, but being both isn't a good sign.

Can you post a video of the movement?

We used Ingalls for quite some time, for some specific ball-joints that we had made by them. We had them made in a "low friction" design - they would move quite easily. They did not move up, or down - but they would rotate quite freely.

We have some very good ball-joints, that many people use for road coursing. If you will measure the OD of the pressed in portion of the BJ, or the diameter of the BJ cup hole....I can let you know what ours is. We sell ours for $59.95/each and I assure you, they are as good or better than any set of BJ's available.

We offer 18mm standard height, 18mm tall, 19mm std height, and 19mm tall.
 

BMR Tech

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Interesting. I was just PM'ing Zquez about his FRPP BOSS 302S arms and how they are holding up before this thread popped up. I been looking at arms and whether I should drill my spindle to put these arms in or just refit the arms I have with bushings and BJ or buy GT500 arms...etc. But Zquez bought the Boss 302S arms. Both Steeda and the FRPP BOSS 302S arms come with raised ball joints. What I don't know is if they are the same manufacturer for that BJ. I would think they would be. I am assuming that the OP didn't pull the BJ out and replace it with an X11 though. Apologies in advance if that is the case.

Steeda doesn't actually say "X11" in their ads; they say "The high-grade ball joints". One would think their would be a billiion hits on google about "Steeda boss competition arms installed"...but Zquez is the only other I know of.

The manufacturer of the the BOSS 302S Ball-Joints, I am almost positive, is Howe Racing.

These would be the same as:

http://www.shelbystore.com/Shelby-High-Performance-Anti-Roll-Ball-Joint-Kit-p/s5mx-3050-u.htm

Except, of course, the August 2009 + Ball-Joints would be larger diameter (19mm)

I think the Howe pieces are excellent - and really like how you can install a threaded ring into the arm.....and thread the BJ in if replacement is required. Ours press in, with a retaining ring - which is a PITA.

Are the BJ's in the BOSS 302S arms threaded in, or press fit with a locking ring?
 

sheizasosay

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They screw in....threaded. That's a big ole plus. Some racers actually tac weld their ball joints in. I would probably just use duct tape or some really thick dental floss and wrap it at least two or three times....can never be too careful.
 

BMR Tech

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Correct, most of the customers who purchase our stuff for road-coursing, always tell me they weld their BJ's in.
 

captdistraction

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Can you post a video of the movement?

We used Ingalls for quite some time, for some specific ball-joints that we had made by them. We had them made in a "low friction" design - they would move quite easily. They did not move up, or down - but they would rotate quite freely.

We have some very good ball-joints, that many people use for road coursing. If you will measure the OD of the pressed in portion of the BJ, or the diameter of the BJ cup hole....I can let you know what ours is. We sell ours for $59.95/each and I assure you, they are as good or better than any set of BJ's available.

We offer 18mm standard height, 18mm tall, 19mm std height, and 19mm tall.

I'll get a video posted shortly.
 

captdistraction

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Video as requested:

From the front of the wheel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPJheREmoFI
(hard to see, but the strut body rotates with the wheel, indicative of something other than the wheel bearings)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkduGvWpx4g

It looks like the arm and tie rod pivot a bit, but I think that's due to the change of the relationship to the spindle.

This is after "regreasing them". Will take the spindle off the balljoint and manually check it for play this weekend.
 

BMR Tech

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Yeah, it does appear to be a little "too" sloppy.

Also appears that there is some vertical play there.

I am not Steeda, so I cannot confirm anything.....but having a sloppy tires on both sides isn't fun for anyone. I am sure they will help you out.
 

captdistraction

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Steeda is shipping a fresh pair of X11's for me.

I'll check them out, but what's involved in converting to the howe's?
 

sheizasosay

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The picture of the copper colored BJ is a FRPP Boss 302S ball joint that comes with the arm from Ford. (Stolen from zquez's thread).

The pic of the silver/Greg ball joint is a Steeds X11 ball joint.

OP, snap a pic of your old and new BJ if you can.
 

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zquez

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Yes, the Boss 302S arms have Howe racing ball joints in them. They are welded to the arm, and screw in.





 

captdistraction

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To what degree of bad idea is this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html

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