Looking for a DIY 2011+ Header Install

Failborne

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Looking to see if someone knows where i can get a good detailed DIY Header install for a 2011 GT. When i get back from the Stan i got a few things to install to include a set of BBK LT headers, I was told its a pain in the ass on the 2011 and was looking to see what im getting into, tried searching only found one for the 05-10 3v 4.6 - Thanks in advanced
 

5.SLOW

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it not that bad but if got a lift it not bad at all. i actually did it with out taking the studs out and it will take you at least 8 hours. get on youtube there some videos on there to.
 

Failborne

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It doesnt look that bad i have access to a lift i think the suspension overhaul is going to be the worst thing, thanks for the help
 

moostang09

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I was just told by a guy with a 2011 that has JBA that the K member has to be dropped down? Is this true? And if so how difficult is that?
 

Jamie A

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bbk long tube headers

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ceramic-headers-2005-install.html

I did mine on the 05 mustang. I don't think the 2011 should he that to much different. Some ppl called for removal of k member and starter. I ended up not having to do either of them. I only used 4 car ramps. I do advise watch you header studs when you tighten down. I found that one stud was.close to start penetrating into my header tube and had to get a bolt with washer n lock washer to swap the stud with. But the job wasn't to bad I say have enough smokes and beer cuz.it does.get tedious when you gotta take old headers off andunbolting headers from the.block. do be careful and easy when.you put studs back so you don't cross thread. And last bring a friend cuz.you will need him for holding up the header as you align the header gasket and start the thread the stud.nuts back on
 

mustangcrazybj

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I just did some on a 2012 5.0 6 speed manual car, the main thing is remove the motor mount completely when installing the header, its time consuming but overall not a bad job at all on a lift, I think it too myself and a couple of buddies about 4-5 hours from start to finish on it. Heres a pic of us hard at it lol
2012-07-07_12-28-39_840.jpg
 

Grimace427

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The K-member can stay untouched, the battery and starter will come out. How you support the engine is very important. If using jackstands to support the car the natural idea is to use a floorjack for the engine. If you are doing this make sure the handle isn't in the way and that it doesn't leak/drop over time. When using a lift the best way is to support the engine with a screw jack so you can raise/lower as you work.

Something that you should pay very close attention to: the main a/c line off the compressor goes straight up on the passenger side and makes access to the front upper nut for the header difficult. DO NOT BEND this line to access the nut, like I did. It will break in a spectacular fashion. I suggest you use the smallest tool possible from the engine compartment instead of from below.

Here is a fun time-lapse vid I made doing my install. Not a helpful DIY but it was neat. Apparently GoPros only hold 999 photos before they stop. I had two different cameras running and filled them both.

 

Fake_Snake

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Something that you should pay very close attention to: the main a/c line off the compressor goes straight up on the passenger side and makes access to the front upper nut for the header difficult. DO NOT BEND this line to access the nut, like I did. It will break in a spectacular fashion. I suggest you use the smallest tool possible from the engine compartment instead of from below.


Your gonna have to drop the K member and remove motor mount, starter, and the steering shaft.

What I did with this portion after about 45 min of struggling from the bottom was. I went and got a ratcheting boxend wrench that was small I cant recall size 4-6" , then I used another bigger wrench to apply more torque did not work, so I added another box end wrench so now I had 3 total doing the Z patteren and on the first tug it broke free. It was a pain in the dick another thing is they are like a torque bit style head
 

Grimace427

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Your gonna have to drop the K member and remove motor mount, starter, and the steering shaft.

What I did with this portion after about 45 min of struggling from the bottom was. I went and got a ratcheting boxend wrench that was small I cant recall size 4-6" , then I used another bigger wrench to apply more torque did not work, so I added another box end wrench so now I had 3 total doing the Z patteren and on the first tug it broke free. It was a pain in the dick another thing is they are like a torque bit style head


You can simply raise the engine to remove the motor mounts, you don't have to drop the k-member.
 

Fake_Snake

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correction i ment we loosend it and removed mounts ... clarified with my buddy .. it was some time ago that we did it..
 

apd252

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I think it depends on what headers you are using. I put jpc 1 3/4 inch on mine. There was NO POSSIBLE way that I could get the passenger side on without dropping the rear of the k member down.
 

stang8psi

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I just did a set and the K member does not need to come out! on pass side take battery out, than underneath take starter out, than motor mount, use screw jack to raise motor up and than take stock manifold out! the rear two manifold studs had to come out but it was super easy to get to with the motor up and motor mount out of the way, Intall new header and reverse the steps to put back together Drivers side we did the same, motor mount out steering shaft out and stock manifold out. All the bolts are easy to get to and can be done in an 1.5 hr, did it at my buddies shop ( HorsePowerAddicts.net) in 4.5 5hrs, and confident we could do it quicker the next time knowing the best ways to do it. I will tell you a lift, and a adjustable head ratchet wrench makes the install easy!
 

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