LS rapist build thread

Discussion in 'Mustang Chit Chat' started by Heaten m90, Aug 13, 2017.

  1. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Going to try'n consolidate my posts'. Got 2 builds going on right now. My turbo 427R and my ol'ladies 98 TJ that she wants coyote swapped. I'll be doing all the work to both, but she'll be paying for her parts. the jeeps going to be used to trailer the mustang. Her budget is only about 10 grand, so I don't know if it's even going to be possible. I have about 12 grand left for my project and can use anything that's left over on the jeep. Below is the parts I already have. But I still need to figure out what crank I'm going to use and what my fuel system will support. I plan on purchasing MMR chain tensioners and guilds as well a MMR trigger wheel, gear, felpro head gaskets tonight. Im thinking of doing a gforce tr3650 rebuild with a crash box/dog rings. (Have a friend that works in gas turbine R&D department and Can make custom CNC parts if I make the auto cad drawings) still haven't decided on which turbo setup I'll be running or if I'll be running an aftermarket ECM as well as what valves and valve springs are needed. I'll be posting a lot of YouTube videos through the entire project. Hopefully when I'm done it'll be a badass no prep/street racing car.

    -Diamond -6cc pistons standard bore pistons
    -AP total seal steel ring set
    -4130 chrome moly .150 wrist pins
    -clevite H series bearings
    -ATI harmonic balancer super damper/ ARP Bolt
    -FRPP rockers/adjusters
    -ARP 156-5002 side bolts
    -ARP 156-5902 main studs
    -ARP 2000 rod bolts
    -ARP 2000 head studs
    -MSD 2 step
    -FRPP hot rod cams
    -greddy profec electronic boost controller
    -80 LBS Ford racing injectors 10AWG wiring upgrade
    -Ford racing fuel rail spacer kit
    -400 LPH walbro pump with 8AWG wiring kit upgraded & performance driver module
    -Kenny bell BAP 17.5 volt
    -brisk 3VR14S
    -62MM FRPP Throttle body
    -dorman intake manifold
    -billet aluminum intake runners/charge motion delete
    -MSD street fighter coils 10 AWG wiring upgrade
    -heavy-duty roush tensioner
    -EBay shorty stainless headers
    - ford racing A/C delete
    -160 thermostat
    -Ford racing valve covers
    -mishimoto hoses
    -aluminum block
    -Percision CNC performance cam Phasers with TTY bolts and timing tool
    -NRK o2 sensors

    Drivetrain:
    -TR3650
    - 4" aluminum drive shaft
    -ACT prolight XACT lightweight chromoly flywheel
    -McLeod super street (spare ACT stage 4 clutch)
    -RAM adjustable Hydraulic TOB( spare McLeod TOB )
    -FRPP steel slave cylinder
    -braided stainless steel hydraulic lines
    -RAM pedal height adjuster
    -Ford racing grade 9 bell housing bolt kit
    -Ford racing extreme duty M series pilot bearing
    -ford racing differential cooler/cover
    -Ford racing 3.31 gears (have spare 4.10.s
    -Ford racing 8.8 carbon rebuild kit


    Suspension:
    -BMR motor mounts with solid billet pucks
    -full Roush stage 3 suspension
    -cobra jet drag springs
    -BMR LCA with relocation brackets
    -GT500 strut mounts
    -BMR sub frame connectors
    -steeda x brace
    -steeda rear strut tower brace
    -s&w 8 point roll cage with roush 5 point harnesses (3")
    -BMR k-member brace

    Interior:
    -Kirkey 71 series driver Kirkey 495 series passenger full containment seats
    -Full Roush carbon fiber dash
    -Roush short throw shifter
    -full weight reduction(gutted)
    -truck bed liner on all the tin
    -Sparco steering wheel hub adapter
    -NRG steering wheel quick release
    -CZR titanium steering wheel spacer
    -holly sniper can shift light
    -Dash 3 pod gauge cluster(oil,fuel LED with warnings)
    -innovative LM2 A/F wide band
    -roush vent pod/ boost gauge
    -SCT x4
    -coldfire/ fire suppression system
    -sparco/FRPP steering wheel

    Exterior:
    -VIS racing carbon fiber super snake hood functional heat extractors and ram intake
    -roush 427R body kit
    -Roush 18" forged aluminum rims
    -Rear: Hoosier 315X30X18 DR2 slick with 2" billet spacer
    -Front: Hoosier 295x30x18 A7 slick with 1" billet spacer
     

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    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017
  2. lemkau77

    lemkau77 forum member

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    So much to love in this thread! Good luck with everything, and can't wait to see all the results.
     
  3. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    Are the MMR chain guides plastic or billet/aluminum?

    If you're still shopping for head gaskets the FRPP head changing kit is hard to beat. You won't need the TTY head studs they come with (could always sell them back) but the gaskets are OEM quality. The whole kit is less than a pair of head gaskets by themselves if I'm remembering right.

    And if this is a max effort build you may be better off starting out with a TR-6060 or maybe even a 4r70 than sinking money into a 3650.
     
  4. NUTCASE

    NUTCASE forum member

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    Wait, lets parse some of those words out:

    your. WIFES. COYOTE. SWAPPED. 98 TJ.

    This demands its own thread with gratuitous pics.
     
  5. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Going to the junkyard Friday to look at a real cheap 5.0 out of an F-150. But i'd need to find coyote cams and a boss manifold. Try'n to pawn off my 80lbs injectors to her so i can get some IDs.

    I'd love to do a 6060 swap but its just not in the budget if i spent the money id want it to be faceplated with straight cut gears and would have to get it imported from over seas. Would also love a NASCAR trans but those are expensive and complicated.
    Ive spoken with liberty gears and gforce and it should be around 3100 dollars to build a 1000 hp tr3650 1200hp rated if cryo treated from my research. My only fear is how the slides will handle the dog rings/clutchless shifting. but i feel this is important as i want the turbo to remain loaded during shifting which i dont think can be accomplished with the 2 step effectively.
     
  6. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Found some turbos from a few rebuilds i did a while back one off a c9 acert caterpiller one from a QsT cummins and a random one i found in the shop.
     

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  7. ROUSH06GA

    ROUSH06GA forum member

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    What are your hp/ et goals? What connecting rod? Also why waste money on Hot rod cams? I would get custom cams or stay with stock with a turbo. 4.6 cobra cranks is good unless your going for a stroker motor. Faceplate trans is a good option but th400 could be taken into consideration for track/street racing.
     
  8. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    I already have the hot rod cams, and manely connecting rods.
     
  9. ROUSH06GA

    ROUSH06GA forum member

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    Sell the cams, unless your just going for the noise.
     
  10. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    Yeah the cams won't pair up well with a turbo. If it were me I would call Bullet Cams and have them make you some per your turbo specs and power level. So you would have to decide on a turbo first.

    As for the trans there is someone on the FB S197 group selling a TR6060 swap kit for $2500 plus shipping. Look up Bryan Collier. He's including a new Spec clutch, DSS driveshaft, braided clutch line, MGW shifter, and crossmember. Should be good to 800-850 crank hp with nothing done to the internals.
     
  11. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Ive decided to start with the on 3 88mm CBB with a billet CW. The HR cams have 120° of lobe separation,11mm lift, 240°E, 220°I IIRC. I dont think overlap is an issue. also cams are not a critical portion of a turbo application IMO. Boost is boost, and this is going to be a high RPM engine. Turbo cams would be ideal but i think the HR cams are still a better route than the stock ones(i still have). Further if i experience ANY issues bogging, ill slap a nitrous plate on it..... honestly ill probably slap a nitrous plate on it no matter what. If anyone can provide solid information pointing me away from the HR cams, ill get a custom set made, but untill then a Manley forged crank is likely the most important next step. Thoughts?

    Also the ATI balancer shower up today, not sure if it is worth the 400$. But it sure does look well constructed
     

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  12. swflastang05

    swflastang05 Back for More

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    I would strongly recommend going with better piston pins, I bent the shit out of a set of standard pins in my motor earlier this year (had to beat them out with a hammer!!), if you want high power you need quality pins I learned this the hard way. Actually I would recommend the kit from L&M, you really can't beat it since you get custom super high quality pistons, steel rings, and tool steel super high quality .200 wall pins.

    https://www.lmengines.com/products/pistons/ford-modular-3v-pistons/4-6l-modular-3v-3-552-8-75cc.html

    Here's the L&M pistons, rings, and pins I went with for my most recent build, that I just finished last month

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see the .300" thick piston crown, top and skirt coatings.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  13. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Thanks for the reccomendation, ill be upgrading to the H13 pins
     
  14. swflastang05

    swflastang05 Back for More

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    Good move!

    You could also save a few buck$ by keeping the oem cops, unless you have some bad ones. There's generally no reason to replace them otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  15. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    No. It's a 110* LSA with a 12mm lift on intake and exhaust. 221/240 duration at .050". On a turbo car you want a single pattern cam with equal intake and exhaust durations and/or less lift on the exhaust side than the intake. The stock cams do exactly this. I need to double check my numbers but I think the stock cams have a 114.5* LSA. Any less is considered too narrow for a turbo car, or even a PD blower car.

    http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62653&highlight=cam+tech

    As for adding nitrous to prevent bogging, adding another system to supplement an underperforming system usually brings headaches. If you choose the right compressor sizes and A/R, you won't have issues with turbo lag. I'm pretty sure a 4.6 will have trouble spooling an 88mm.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
  16. Wes06

    Wes06 forum member

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    Lol. Literally every spec he listed for hotrods was off. :yaoface:
     
  17. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    Yea yea yea its been awhile since ive had to recall my cams specs lol.

    From my research:

    By opening the exhaust valve sooner with either a tighter lobe-separation angle or long exhaust duration, the engine generally responds better. You will lose scavenge if you open the exhaust valve too late.you can and probably should treat a properly sized, high-efficiency turbo motor like a normally aspirated engine. An early-opening exhaust valve can be beneficial for top-end power because even high-efficiency turbos still have to work against some exhaust backpressure. The earlier-opening exhaust helps to reduce residual pressure in the cylinder before the intake valve opens.

    Turbo size is a big concern for me however, but i dont think a 76mm or 67mm will support anything over 750HP above 6500RPM further the 331 might not be enough gear but will help load a larger turbo.
     
  18. Heaten m90

    Heaten m90 forum member

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    So from reading that link, and other information i will be altering the cam geometry. I was wrong, Thanks for the insite it took awhile to sink into my think skull.

    -Please advise on crankshaft reccomendations?

    - i currently have a walbro 400LPH and a BAP what will this support on E85? Can i add another walbro and BAP, or do i need to ditch this setup and go returnless?

    -i would buy that 6060 and build it, but i dont trust purchasing things on the Internet. Worried thay'd just keep the money.

    -turbo size reccomendations?

    Also the junkyard 5.0 was a no go, it was difficult to bar over and it seemed iffy and didnt have the ECM. The search is still on. There is a 9" Detroit locker off an old dump truck im going probably to be pulling the trigger on.
     

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