MMR AC Eliminator: Capping the lines?

Discussion in 'Corner Carver Racing Tech Discussion' started by Gray Ghost GT, Jun 15, 2017.

  1. Gray Ghost GT

    Gray Ghost GT Road Racing Fanatic!

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    I'm installing the MMR AC Eliminator; removing the AC compressor and condenser to remove 65 lbs. of weight from the front end on my road course car. Has anyone else installed this part? What should I use to cap the lines to prevent moisture from entering the lines, etc.? Thanks
     
  2. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    The entire system charged isn't 35lbs.

    Take everything out but the EVAP core.

    Also I do believe I paid like $60 for my Ford Racing A/C delete from AM
     
  3. Gray Ghost GT

    Gray Ghost GT Road Racing Fanatic!

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    Good to know. Only 35 lbs.... was it worth the effort? Did you feel a difference in the turns/esses at speed (reduced under steer?). Hoping for a 45+ lbs. difference.
     
  4. Sky Render

    Sky Render Stig's Retarded Cousin

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    You're not going to prevent moisture getting in those lines, period. There's a reason you have to pull an AC system down to a hard vacuum before putting refrigerant in; it's to get all the moisture out.

    My point is that if you're going to eliminate the AC system, get rid of all of it, including the lines.

    Also, I'm not sure how high of a level you are, but I wouldn't be able to notice a 35-pound weight difference. Now, if I'm converting a car to a full-on race car (no longer street legal), then heck yeah I'm going to ditch the AC (and a bunch of other stuff). But if you still drive your car on the street, I'd leave the AC in.
     
  5. Gray Ghost GT

    Gray Ghost GT Road Racing Fanatic!

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    I could feel a 35 lbs. difference in the front end based on my experience, etc. but I plan to keep the car street legal so I'm leaning against this particular mod. Appreciate everyones feedback. Thanks.
     
  6. 86GT351

    86GT351 forum member

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    On a car with a functional suspension at the drag strip every 100 pounds is supposedly equivalent to .10 I am sure there has to be some performance gain for weight with road racing.
     
  7. Sky Render

    Sky Render Stig's Retarded Cousin

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    Yes, definitely. But in my opinion, saving 35 pounds and no longer having AC on a street car is not worth the relatively small performance gain.
     
  8. ddd4114

    ddd4114 forum member

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    I still have A/C in my street-driven TT car, and I have no interest in removing it. I haven't noticed any difference in how the car feels when changing ballast (~30 lb) or fuel load, but it does make a small difference in lap times. The only time I can really notice a difference is with a passenger, but that's significantly more weight than what you're looking at removing.

    While your car will be very slightly faster and stay a little cooler without A/C, you will miss it on the street on a hot day. I think the largest benefit is using it to defog the windows when it's humid.

    If you're competing in a class in which you're fighting for 0.1-0.2 seconds per lap, then I would certainly ditch the A/C if you trailer the car (which would be very likely in that situation). Otherwise, there are many other ways to make the car faster. If you're just doing non-competitive HPDE or track day events, then I really don't think it's worth it.
     
  9. RocketcarX

    RocketcarX 95% of my weight is fuel

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    My car is drag oriented, I can't say I felt the difference enough to care. With all of the other weight reduction my car has seen it's not a big deal.
    I put it back in a few weeks ago, this summer is going to be way too hot to not have it and for any kind of daily use in the rain it's a must. The foggy windows can get scary in a hurry.
     
  10. Chriss_302

    Chriss_302 Junior Member

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    I removed the entire system, was more than 35 lbs. No kit is needed to delete the system.

    Remove refrigerant, remove condenser, remove coolant( since i was installing an aluminum radiator with evans coolant).

    Remove compressor( PITA), cut ac belt, remove all existing lines, unbolt several bolts on the firewall, engine side.

    Remove heater core+ lines+ blower all inside the car.

    You have to bridge the lines to finalize it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2017
  11. SoundGuyDave

    SoundGuyDave This Space For Rent

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    That all works, if you've got a Coyote under the hood... From OP's sig pic, he's got an 05-09, so most likely a 4.6-3V, which has a single serpentine drive belt for all the FEAD stuff.

    The rest of it is correct, though. And no, it's still around 35lbs net.

    For the life of me, I can't find the part number, but there was a Gates pre-molded hose they used on the FR500S. Essentially just a short "U" that jumped from one heater line to the other on the back of the block.
     
  12. Chriss_302

    Chriss_302 Junior Member

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    Pleaseeee forward me the part #, I think i need to clean it up, just a tad:whistle1:
    I had to do it the "ghetto" way and purchased some union parts from Home Depot.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2017
  13. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

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    This is what I could find

    Heater Bypass Hose FR500S Gates #18743 / Available through FRMC Support Trailer
     
  14. SoundGuyDave

    SoundGuyDave This Space For Rent

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    Yup, that's the one. IIRC, the original application was for a mid 90's Chevy Cavalier... Available on Amazon for $7.55...

    Chris_302: I have no idea if that'll work on a Coyote plant; I do know it'll work on the 4.6-3V.
     
  15. Chriss_302

    Chriss_302 Junior Member

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    Hmm, I'm having a hard time finding it, anyone has links?
     
  16. travelers

    travelers Senior Member

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