New Crank?

[Graham19922011]

I have an 06 4.6 and had some timing issues so we pulled the front cover and changed everything around. My issue according to some people I've called is from the crank pulley not being on super tight. So when we were reinstalling everything we went to put crank bolt on and tighten down and it would barely touch, so we beat on the pulley with rubber mallet until it was maybe 1/4 inch from the cover and then started tightening the crank bolt. The bolt would start out finger tight then get super hard so we slid a ratchet on and made a few turns then it became finger loose again. Then tight, then finger loose etc.. How hard are these cranks to strip? We pulled the bolt and it had no threads on it that came lose. The bolt looked okay and it was too late at night to go get a crank bolt so we didn't replace it. Are these cranks finicky? Will the bolt strip way before the crank threads? We didn't really wanna get it super tight without knowing one way or the other.

 

[RocketcarX]

Were the crank bolt threads covered in thread shavings when you removed it to check?
Drawing the dampener on with the crank bolt is not the way to do it, you must use an installer tool to draw the dampener down on the crank.

 

[Graham19922011]

Were the crank bolt threads covered in thread shavings when you removed it to check?
Drawing the dampener on with the crank bolt is not the way to do it, you must use an installer tool to draw the dampener down on the crank.

We 100% did not use the bolt to pull it in, but maybe someone else, previous owner/shop, did. There were no threads on the bolt from the crank, no. But that bolt loosening and tightening when we were putting it on sketched me out.

 

[RocketcarX]

By your description it sounds stripped or its the dampener is not on the crank far enough. Go to your local parts house and rent an installer to finish the job.

 

[Graham19922011]

By your description it sounds stripped or its the dampener is not on the crank far enough. Go to your local parts house and rent an installer to finish the job.

Think what I’ll do is look into that installer and buy a new bolt


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[travelers]

You need a new bolt anyway they are a one time use bolt.

 

[07 Boss]

You need a new bolt anyway they are a one time use bolt.

Uh oh. I think reused mine.

 

[Graham19922011]

Uh oh. I think reused mine.

I did as well. Wasn’t aware of that


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[RocketcarX]

Reusing the bolt is fine, the pressfit would hold the pulley sans bolt if it came down to it.

 

[msvela448]

Sounds like the snout is stripped.. But if you aren't seeing shavings maybe you are okay. Definitely do not try to draw the damper on with the bolt. The damper goes on pretty far... Back side nearly touches the front cover. Maybe 1/8" clearance.

There is not much engagement of the crank bolt in the crank snout even with the damper installed correctly.. If you buy the ARP bolt it's not much better because they supply a 1/4" think washer, moving the bolt out of the crank even further. If you call ARP they have a longer bolt... I can't remember the length off the top of my head but 65mm under head length is ringing a bell. If you want to measure it... With the damper installed just probe the depth of the bore with the end of a caliper. Whatever length you get should be what you want to order for UHL because the thick washer should make sure the bolt doesn't bottom out.

You have to use a damper installer to do it correctly, and the factory bolt is definitely a one time use TTY (torque to yield) bolt.

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[eighty6gt]

I used a linear roller ball bearing and a longer bolt to start my balancer hub. Lubed the threads. Pushed it on all the way with a new TTY bolt. It was not an issue. I believe I warmed the hub a little bit with a heat gun - doubt that did much.

 

[RED09GT]

Run a tap through it, there may be debris or something else such as RTV preventing it from going in smoothly.
Also, just buy the ARP bolt, it is reuseable. The biggest reason why you should not reuse the TTY bolt is that since it has been stretched previously, you run the risk of snapping it off when torquing it to spec or when adding the additional 90 degrees of turn.

 

[JeremyH]

When I got my udp's back in day they came with a longer bolt to assist with install that was marked as such and not to actually be used (although I didn't use it I had the tool). I spent the $30 and bought the arp crank bolt when I put it for peace of mind over buying a new factory tty bolt. Years later when I took the ud crank pulley off to put on the a stock size ati damper the arp bolt came out and went back in easy peasy. If you want peace of mind because you resued a factory tty bolt it would be very easy to grab a arp bolt and just swap it out.

As for the op's issue I would agree with getting the tool, cleaning out the snout and running a tap through it before trying to install the bolt again.