New Driveshaft on the way!

Miker

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Hope this goes well. Tired of the clunking, clanging, pinging, and vibrations.
At 150K I am sure it is time.

[email protected]
Thu, May 4 at 6:48 AM

Blue Oval Industries
PO Box 151 207 N 5th Street
Elkton, VA 22827
Your order has shipped!

Ordered Qty SKU Product Title
1 DT1550 2005-2010 Mustang GT Ford Performance M-4602-MGTA Aluminum Driveshaft Assembly
Sincerely,
Blue Oval Industries
 

dark steed

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Nice! I need to get one for mine, 187K here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Miker

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I have been super impressed by Blue Oval Industries. They have the best prices and fast shipping. Everything I have ordered has arrived in perfect condition. Hoping it continues!
 

JC SSP

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Are they a vendor on the forum? Discount code?
 

Jwood562

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Wow they have great prices.

I have bought from the on eBay but never directly
 

Miker

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Well the drive shaft came 2 days early. Started on it at 1:45 had to be done by 5:30. I figured 12 bolts no sweat. Jacked up the car as high as I could in the back and jack stands on the axel. Got out the creeper, uh no. So on my back on the ground it is. My battery impact wouldn't budge the diff side bolts so out comes the air wrench. Zip zip and 6 bolts out. Move to the front. Now this is awkward and a 12 point socket is needed. Well there only 76 lbs so no sweat. Uh, no. Soaked with PB Blaster and the first of 4 is out. 2nd put up a hell of a fight and split my 12 point Craftsman socket. Another Craftsman 12 point, this time on a wobbly extension so I could fully seat the socket. Twisted the end of the extension right off. So a super short extension and the 2nd is out. On to the third. It battled hard but finally came out. 1 to go. Would not budge. Got it red hot but still would not budge with the 1/2 inch impact. Finally got it with a 20 inch 1/2 inch breaker bar by pushing on it with my foot. If I had it to do over again I would do them all like that. Better yet have a second person to do the pushing and pop the car in and out of gear. Zipped out the 2 carrier bearing support bolts and it was out. Once I cleaned up all the tools it was 5:30 and the car is still on jacks and the new driveshaft is still in the garage. On a 4 point lift it would be an hour job total. On stands in the driveway it was a PITA. And I still have to put in the new one. Probably shimmied in and out 20 times. Got my ass kicked for sure. Couldn't really feel any slop in the U-joints or CV but the carrier bearing rubber was mush. I could move the shaft an 1 inch or more up and down and side to side. Hoping tomorrow I can get a torque wrench on the tranny side, it's tight in there.
 

Miker

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Well the driveshaft went in with very little effort. I did buy a new set of Dorman bolts for the shaft to transmission flange. Cost was 20. I could have made the original work but the 2 that gave me the most problem were pretty messed up.
Here is the skinny. If you are even thinking about doing this, do it. Gone are the clanks and clunks and the car feels more connected to the pedal. Somehow it even shifts better.
Ran it up to 80 and zero noise or vibration. My car is not lowered and the driveshaft doesn't come close to rubbing on anything in the tunnel. If you have a lowered car the shafts with the rear CV joint might work better but for me this Ford endorsed driveline is perfect. And the Spicer u joints are huge compared to the stock ones. And of course only used off road only. :angels25:
One last thing. I discovered that I could reach above the transmission and slip it into 1st without sliding out from under the car. That was a game changer as the front bolts were only accessible for the torque wrench in 1 spot. I used a 3/8ths Snap-On digital with a wobbly adapter and a short 12 point 12mm socket. That 1 position let the head of the ratchet rest on the barrel of the driveshaft stabilizing the wobbly and assisting in pulling 76 ft lbs on the bolts. The rear needed a ball end allen for the 4 allen heads to 41 ft lbs and the 2 hex head 15mm were just tightened as hard as I could get them with an end wrench as there is no way to get a socket on them. Blue loctite on the rear and red on the front.
Hopefully this helps someone. Sorry for no pics but the frustration level was too high on day 1 and today I never had to slide out once I was under.
 
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brasil

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you can use a 12mm bolt.. this bolt you can screw in on the flange where the DS bolts on to the Transmission. You need to screw in the bolt from the "engine side ". When you use the "trick " you can leave the Transmission in neutral...so no need to ask someone who sits in the car...or something else. The only thing is to remove the screw everytime you need to turn the DS ..for going to the next screw /bolt
 

Miker

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you can use a 12mm bolt.. this bolt you can screw in on the flange where the DS bolts on to the Transmission. You need to screw in the bolt from the "engine side ". When you use the "trick " you can leave the Transmission in neutral...so no need to ask someone who sits in the car...or something else. The only thing is to remove the screw everytime you need to turn the DS ..for going to the next screw /bolt

It was easy enough to reach above the tail shaft and put it into gear. Although at first it wouldn't hold as I was slipping into 3rd as that is the gate the shifter sits at in neutral. I had to pull it sideways before pulling it back into first.
One more thing I discovered. I looked up the OEM driveshaft and it is discontinued! Probably could find one somewhere, just something to think about.
 

JC SSP

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Automotive manufactures (i.e., Ford) are only required to have parts in stock for a certain amount of years... I believe its 10 years?
 

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