Panhard bar filler??

[Flash_of_Yellow]

So, I've decided to put in new LCA's and a Panhard with rod ends on both ends. Should be a pretty easy self build. Tube, weld nuts and rod ends. Some custom lathe work to make the bushings, etc.

But, when I was taking the panhard bar out to measure stuff, I found that the panhard was filled with something sounding like sand/gravel. No, it's not road grime that made it's way in. Just wondering if anyone has a good idea what it's there for? I'm thinking it's there for dampening? In which case, if anyone has changed out their panhards for an aftermarket one, do you notice anything that could be associated with the panhard bar vibrating?

 

[Random Asshole]

TTOD

 

[Stangmeister9]

i believe they all have that, dont worry about it and just center that rear end and have fun driving!

 

[fiverivers]

I think its called structural foam it was developed by henkel and used for structural stiffness

 

[Dread53]

Actually it's used to dampen out the noise that occurs every time you hit a bump and rapidly compress the bar. I have the BMR bar and it makes a god-awful clunk on a hard bump.

 

[Sam Strano]

The stuff inside to damp vibration. I won't help the clunk and bars with rod-ends will clunk and rattle at times because of the ends, not because of the stuff inside.

FWIW, I admire anyone willing to take the time make these things. But I'd think hard about it. You have to be an excellent welder, and there are a number of details like spacer/adapters to fit the car, fit the bolts... And what is your time worth? Many like to have projects, but I can tell you that for what two rod-ends cost, that's more than 1/3rd the price of a double rod-ended PHB like the UMI... Add welding wire, powdercoating costs, jam-nuts, buying the bungs, and of course your time (if you can put a value on it--some just enjoy the work), and it's one of those things that I'm not sure pays off building vs. buying...

 

[Flash_of_Yellow]

Sam,

Thanks for the reply on this. In my situation this actually comes out being cheaper but only because the stars have aligned. In my situation I'm a professional engineer (licensed in the state of WA) so I was able to calculate all the margins of safety on these things along with that of fatigue issues. I also have a master welder as a friend who is handling all the welds and we have a full machine shop at our discretion. We also just happen to have a major powdercoat order going in in which my portion of the bill will be $10 for the bars. So yes for a normal person this would be really expensive. But for me its cheaper and my wife took away my crdit card

So yes people please don't copy me unless you know what you're doing. But it sure is nice to know what load your parts will fail at (I'm my situation that's 11,500 lbs for the weakest member which equates to a margin of safety of about 5.50)

I'm also building my own roll bar next weekend but I used ANSYS to model that setup

Oh, and I love doing my own projects!

 

[JeremyH]

I know naval ships with massive shaft/screws are filled with different forms of sand/finely ground materials to dampen sound and prevent harmonics from tearing up the bearings and seals.

 

[GIG4FUN]

MrClean had his OEM bar apart a long time ago and said it was lead shot.

 

[Brybrew]

Not to Hijack. But I have a Panhard bar with adjustable rod ends installed on my car. I travel some pretty rough roads around here and it sounds like the rear end of my car is falling apart. (clicky clank clank clank). I never thought of the stock unit having the 'lead shot' in it to dampen the noise (until I read this thread) but that makes allot of sense. Is there any way to make this quieter? I had thought it may be due to the stock LCA's and I am ordering a set of BMRs anyways for it. Is there a Adj bar thats resolves this issue as well?

 

[Sleeper_08]

A Panhard bar with two rod ends gives a steel to steel connection between the axle and the body and increased Noise/Vibration/Harshness will result.

Make sure that nothing has come loose, especially the lock nuts and use blue Loctite but if it is tight then your alternative is to go to a poly/rod bar.

 

[o0Dan0o]

if you're going to make control arms or a panhard bar, go to http://www.colemanracing.com/ and search for trailing arms. Premade threaded arms with wrench flats, assorted diameters and sizes for ~$20 bucks for most of it. Easier and probably as cheap as making it. They also sell rod-ends.

Dan

 

[Flash_of_Yellow]

if you're going to make control arms or a panhard bar, go to http://www.colemanracing.com/ and search for trailing arms. Premade threaded arms with wrench flats, assorted diameters and sizes for ~$20 bucks for most of it. Easier and probably as cheap as making it. They also sell rod-ends.

Dan

Very nice, wish I had seen this before I made mine.