Question for the "You only need a stiffer front swaybar" camp

[BMR Tech]

Given this is 3-4 times the rate of many adj front swaybars, I am curious if the strut ears are a concern. Or better worded: any more of a concern than with the typical 400'ish in lb current bars.

We used the SB041 on two of our cars for about a year. Neither was used in competition...just street use. One failed OEM End Link, Drivers side. (2011GT's) One car on Strange Struts, the other on Koni Sports.

We had two customers use them during this same timeframe, for testing. One car, avid auto X...and one, road course on some super meats.... Both cars had failed OEM End-links, within 1-2 months. One car has some Modded KW C/O's...and the other has Koni Sports.

All above cars run our ELK010 Kit without issue. I will be honest, I do not like the fact that our ELK010 pieces are not on-car adjustable. ProForged could not fulfill our needs for the threads when we developed them....but, in a few months, we will be changing them to OCA.

So, to answer, I cannot honestly tell you if it will pose an issue over a long term. For a year of testing, track and street, no issues with the strut mounts.

 

[sheizasosay]

For a year of testing, track and street, no issues with the strut mounts.

Good deal. Thanks Kelly.

 

[Lucky_13]

Given this is 3-4 times the rate of many adj front swaybars, I am curious if the strut ears are a concern. Or better worded: any more of a concern than with the typical 400'ish in lb current bars.

My ear on a Bilstein failed with Sam's 35mm bar, but it looked to be a bad weld. The welds on my KW V3's are super beefy and thorough, but I've been checking them anyways.

 

[TORQR]

Just for the record, I ran a whiteline front bar on the second softest setting and no rear bar on a 2011 GT500 with SVTPP springs. The car understeered terrible. The rear spring was too weak to keep the inner front tire on the ground when accelerating even a little out of corners. I put the stock rear bar back on and the improvement was fantastic.

 

[Sartol]

Right now I'm running Koni Srt.t and H&R springs with stock sway bars. 275 rear rivals and 245 front rival ( I know I know ). With the 245 up , their grip level doesn't create bad front body roll. Once the front roll is to its max the car under steers. Rear of the car feels fine but roll center is off via no axle re centering , no LCA reloate, bad ULA. Here in a few months I'm going to bump up to 275's on the same 9" rim up front, with a small bulging. If the front begins to have more body roll from more front grip, from what i have read on this thread, going with a bigger front sway bar will sub for lack of spring. Thats going into a turn , when i fix the rear roll center and she begins to grab more coming out of a turn then i'm going to have to sub spring again with a rear bar? Just checking if i'm following right.

 

[sheizasosay]

Question for the "You only need a stiffer front swaybar" camp

Get adj bars and tune the over/understeer. I would go square first though.

 

[white86hatch]

I started my suspension upgrades with a whiteline front bar after my first ever autox event on advice Terry gave me. Set to full stiff with stock everything else the car felt much sharper on turn in but the rear still felt "lazy". After adding a slew of other parts until I reached my current set up I can tell you without a doubt both bars are a "must" for me on these cars. I can dial in how quick the car feels like it's rotating with rear bar adjustments. I'll echo csamsh's sentiments that a setting of 4f/2r is good for open track days while moving the rear to 3 or 4 for autox helps the car transition better. I've played with the front bar settings but it just makes the car feel too lazy to me. I'm sure that's due to needing more front spring rate but sadly that's not within my budget right now.