warrior86
ODIN
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2009
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For years 2005-2009. Not sure if it works for newer models
Back in April of 2013, I was about to pull away from a restaurant when I noticed my key was slightly out of the steering column. With the car on, I could pull out the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder (ILC; as I will abbreviate it from this time forth), and had no idea how it came out. After researching it on these forums, couldn't really find the exact answer nor write up of what I wanted, and sure as hell was not going to pay the stealership $330 P/L to do this and I never dealt with a locksmith before.
Our very own, KALATRAX, though this happened to him as well, did figure out how to get this fixed himself too. Though he gave me a description of what he did and pointers through many PMs, I still felt I was missing a little bit since I had no idea what the inside really looked like or how it functioned. Talked to a Locksmith and picked his brain on how it worked and he was nice enough to show me pieces he had laying around of some of the components that I would potentially find in the lock once I tore it apart. I didn't want to break into this project without knowing exactly what I was getting myself into since I technically am able to start the car just fine.
I'd like to point out that there is still some text/video and explanation after the pictures that is very helpful. Before attempting this please read this thread thoroughly so you know what to expect; including the video I linked that I personally made for this at the end
This instructional is based off of continuing to use your existing key because that is what the cut sequence will be based off when doing this, and that is the sequence your key is programmed in the computer with. Now the instructions I provide or the procedure shown, you can still get a brand new key if you wanted with a different cut sequence, but you will have to reprogram the car (instruction you can find in your very own owner's manual), but that would just be a pain in the butt if there is nothing wrong with your key. Basically for those that do not know, your car has PATS security system and there is a coded chip on key itself.
Also, this instructional is based off the fact the lock tab on my ILC broke so it slides out of place and does not stay. However, you can use these tips in this thread if you lose your keys completely, or if there is anything wrong with ILC and you need to get a new one.
So, here we go....
PIC 1,2,3,4 (Box it came in and manuals that came with this part)
I ended up buying the part from Amazon (Dorman 924-717) for $35.
I believe the same part number you can get from Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts for around $65.
PIC 5,6,7 Official manuals from the part FORD sells.)
I was able to get the PARTS guy to let me take pics of it.
PICS 8,9,10,11
Pics of how everything looks and exact direction I pulled the ILC out of the steering column
PIC 12
This is what came in the box. Basically you have 5 separate bags of these little metal things called wafers. Four per bag. There is also a bag that has 8 little itty bitty springs. You have the outside cylinder, the tumbler, grease, and the white tool is there so you stick it into the original ILC to depress the wafers to take out the cylinder and turn it the way you need to.
PIC 13,14
The new one is to the right and the old one to the left. They are pretty much identical. As you can see in pic 14 where the little lock clip broke off which is why the ILC came out
PIC 15,16,17
This is what the tumbler looks like with the wafers still in them. The springs are below the wafers. (Please refer to the bottom of this post after the pictures for a video I created of removal and assembly)
PIC 18
This is what the entire breakdown of the old parts looked like. You have to pry off the silver outside bezel and it is no fun. (more detailed description of this below)
PIC 19
Greased up new tumbler. I took a bit of the grease off as I like to follow the rule: A little goes a long way. I still greased it in most parts.
PIC 20, 21, 22
This was the final outcome of the piece.
(NOTE: Putting the tumbler with the new wafers into the new cylinder was tricky. Follow the directions in the booklet but I DID NOT have to remove the top bezel like I did when I tore the old one apart. When I did remove the original tumbler from the original ILC, the only way I was able to get it out was the opposite way... by having to have taken off the silver bezel, which needed to be taken out anyway.)
VIDEO of Tumbler / Wafer explanation
During the process of taking the tumbler out and transferring the wafers, not really a process I could show you very well with pictures so below is a link to a video I uploaded showing the process. This process happens around picture 17ish..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6ewl1HVcPg
Putting the ILC back in the car
I attached a PDF of the instruction from "Removing" the ILC and the reverse in a PDF through this thread. After taking a while to mess with it trying to put it back into the car, because the lock piece that broke off was now not broken, there was no way I could depress it. Per the instructions in the PDF, the only way to depress this is to have the key in the RUN position (pretty much key pointed high noon). IF you were like me, and only need to install it back into the car, and not have to take it out Originally, I do not believe you need to remove the bottom portion of the steering column plastic. What was hard to figure out at first was how am I able to put the car into the run position now that I switched everything over and cannot get the ILC back in. What I did was I went back to my original Tumbler and popped in the old wafers and made my self somewhat of another version of it (not build up all the way of course), so I could at least turn the car to the RUN position, and then take the assembly out of the hole. Afterwards, try putting the new one back in with the KEY in the RUN position in the new ILC, you can depress that button now, either with your finger or with a small flathead, and slide the sucker in.
IF ANYONE NEEDS MORE HIGHER RESOLUTION PICTURES, LET ME KNOW!
Back in April of 2013, I was about to pull away from a restaurant when I noticed my key was slightly out of the steering column. With the car on, I could pull out the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder (ILC; as I will abbreviate it from this time forth), and had no idea how it came out. After researching it on these forums, couldn't really find the exact answer nor write up of what I wanted, and sure as hell was not going to pay the stealership $330 P/L to do this and I never dealt with a locksmith before.
Our very own, KALATRAX, though this happened to him as well, did figure out how to get this fixed himself too. Though he gave me a description of what he did and pointers through many PMs, I still felt I was missing a little bit since I had no idea what the inside really looked like or how it functioned. Talked to a Locksmith and picked his brain on how it worked and he was nice enough to show me pieces he had laying around of some of the components that I would potentially find in the lock once I tore it apart. I didn't want to break into this project without knowing exactly what I was getting myself into since I technically am able to start the car just fine.
I'd like to point out that there is still some text/video and explanation after the pictures that is very helpful. Before attempting this please read this thread thoroughly so you know what to expect; including the video I linked that I personally made for this at the end
This instructional is based off of continuing to use your existing key because that is what the cut sequence will be based off when doing this, and that is the sequence your key is programmed in the computer with. Now the instructions I provide or the procedure shown, you can still get a brand new key if you wanted with a different cut sequence, but you will have to reprogram the car (instruction you can find in your very own owner's manual), but that would just be a pain in the butt if there is nothing wrong with your key. Basically for those that do not know, your car has PATS security system and there is a coded chip on key itself.
Also, this instructional is based off the fact the lock tab on my ILC broke so it slides out of place and does not stay. However, you can use these tips in this thread if you lose your keys completely, or if there is anything wrong with ILC and you need to get a new one.
So, here we go....
PIC 1,2,3,4 (Box it came in and manuals that came with this part)
I ended up buying the part from Amazon (Dorman 924-717) for $35.
I believe the same part number you can get from Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts for around $65.
PIC 5,6,7 Official manuals from the part FORD sells.)
I was able to get the PARTS guy to let me take pics of it.
PICS 8,9,10,11
Pics of how everything looks and exact direction I pulled the ILC out of the steering column
PIC 12
This is what came in the box. Basically you have 5 separate bags of these little metal things called wafers. Four per bag. There is also a bag that has 8 little itty bitty springs. You have the outside cylinder, the tumbler, grease, and the white tool is there so you stick it into the original ILC to depress the wafers to take out the cylinder and turn it the way you need to.
PIC 13,14
The new one is to the right and the old one to the left. They are pretty much identical. As you can see in pic 14 where the little lock clip broke off which is why the ILC came out
PIC 15,16,17
This is what the tumbler looks like with the wafers still in them. The springs are below the wafers. (Please refer to the bottom of this post after the pictures for a video I created of removal and assembly)
PIC 18
This is what the entire breakdown of the old parts looked like. You have to pry off the silver outside bezel and it is no fun. (more detailed description of this below)
PIC 19
Greased up new tumbler. I took a bit of the grease off as I like to follow the rule: A little goes a long way. I still greased it in most parts.
PIC 20, 21, 22
This was the final outcome of the piece.
(NOTE: Putting the tumbler with the new wafers into the new cylinder was tricky. Follow the directions in the booklet but I DID NOT have to remove the top bezel like I did when I tore the old one apart. When I did remove the original tumbler from the original ILC, the only way I was able to get it out was the opposite way... by having to have taken off the silver bezel, which needed to be taken out anyway.)
VIDEO of Tumbler / Wafer explanation
During the process of taking the tumbler out and transferring the wafers, not really a process I could show you very well with pictures so below is a link to a video I uploaded showing the process. This process happens around picture 17ish..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6ewl1HVcPg
Putting the ILC back in the car
I attached a PDF of the instruction from "Removing" the ILC and the reverse in a PDF through this thread. After taking a while to mess with it trying to put it back into the car, because the lock piece that broke off was now not broken, there was no way I could depress it. Per the instructions in the PDF, the only way to depress this is to have the key in the RUN position (pretty much key pointed high noon). IF you were like me, and only need to install it back into the car, and not have to take it out Originally, I do not believe you need to remove the bottom portion of the steering column plastic. What was hard to figure out at first was how am I able to put the car into the run position now that I switched everything over and cannot get the ILC back in. What I did was I went back to my original Tumbler and popped in the old wafers and made my self somewhat of another version of it (not build up all the way of course), so I could at least turn the car to the RUN position, and then take the assembly out of the hole. Afterwards, try putting the new one back in with the KEY in the RUN position in the new ILC, you can depress that button now, either with your finger or with a small flathead, and slide the sucker in.
IF ANYONE NEEDS MORE HIGHER RESOLUTION PICTURES, LET ME KNOW!
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