School me on drag tire/wheel setups

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips' started by 46addict, Nov 16, 2016.

  1. skaarlaj

    skaarlaj Probie Former Pink Bus Rider

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    28" for me
     
  2. stkjock

    stkjock ---- Madmin ---- Staff Member

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    asking tire diameter in a vacuum is a silly endeavor IMHO
     
  3. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

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    I've been using those for 2 years on my front 15x4's, no issues.
    I run JegStars with a 3/8 spacer and had to shave my caliper a bit.
     
  4. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

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    x2

    Right on. Race Star 15x10, 7.25 bs. Like said above, you need to have the sway bar relocation bracket, or a BMR sway bar, which is what I have. Stock brakes. Just have to cut the "tabs" off the stock mounting point. I have same wheel, 15x3.75, 1.5 bs fronts. I have the MT front tires, the ridiculously expensive ones (Sportsman SR, 28x6). I really wanted a 28" front that was also a radial tire.

    For rears, 275-60-15 MT drag radial SS. About 28" tall. I have 4.10s/auto. I have run the major drag radials (NITTO, BFG) over the years and the MT are by far the best traction for the track, imo. I run them at 22 PSI racing. Just haze them for the burnout.
     
  5. lindertw

    lindertw forum member

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    bias ply rear tire will be more forgiving with your manual trans, but it's your money...

    I have M/T et street bias ply tires, 26" diameter (low power n/a car with 4.56 gears) on 15x8 weld rts wheels - no spacers, no grinding, mcgard lug nuts. The tires are have been discontinued by M/T, but Hoosier QTP are similar and folks run them with great results. When mine wear out I'll go with a full slick.

    With the right suspension setup and tire you can launch hard and get the most ET out of the car. Good luck!
     
  6. jam07GT

    jam07GT forum member

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    I totally agree on this. That's why I bought an auto car. I wanted to run drag radials and drive it to the track. I tried every drag radial on my 4 speed Chevelle and nothing worked. Every once in a while I would get a clean pass in, but very rare, and I had a two step, etc. Bias ply for stick cars is the way to go.
     
  7. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    Did you run inner tubes with those bias plys? I see some people on the forums running without tubes, and some people do.
     
  8. lindertw

    lindertw forum member

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    no tubes on my setup. I ran 15psi cold at the track, and 25psi when driving around town.

    I had them mounted with permatex high tack to keep them in place on the rim
     
  9. djniknala

    djniknala forum member

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    I did the same(using high tack) on 15" dark stars with Hoosier stiff sidewalk slick at 14psi cold with no tubes. I marked the rim and tires and they never spun in relation to each other. I had 50 plus launches on these with over 20 being at 7k rpm in a '12 GT NA 5.0. All but 3 of those launches were 1.46-1.49.
     
  10. casper gt

    casper gt forum member

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    Its always best to check the rules at the tracks you run at before you decide on the tube/no tube thing.

    Some tracks don't care (actually most) if you have tubes or not but some will not let you run a tube type tire with no tube.

    Just an FYI thing.
     
  11. 46addict

    46addict 13726548

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    50 launches sounds like a lot. Do they start losing grip after that?

    Thanks everyone for the replies so far. Been a big help.
     
  12. djniknala

    djniknala forum member

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    I didn't do huge burnouts with them but they hadn't shown any signs of slowing down.
     

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