A good high wattage iron is needed. I have a 50 watt Weller.
Get yer soldering iron and while it is cold, take a file to it and remove any corrosion off of the tip. Down to the shiny copper is best.
Then heat the iron up and "tin" it by allowing some solder to melt on the tip and wick around the entire tip.
Parallel wrap the wires to be soldered, then apply a bit of solder on the iron to form a small ball. Touch the ball of solder to the back of the wires such that the solder ball is firmly against the wire and iron. Apply solder to the top of the wire (not the iron) and let it run and wick all the wires. Keep the iron against the wire until it is hot enough to melt the solder, and until you finish. When it gets all silver looking (tinned), remove the iron, and viola, you have a good solder joint.
The key is using the solder ball to get the heat transfer into the wire, and then tinning the wire on the top with the solder. This method will prevent you from having a weak or cold solder joint.
If your iron gets corroded/black from the rosin, get a wet sponge and rub the tip on it to remove the black shit, and yes you do this when the iron is at full operating temp.
Always use rosin core solder for electronics, and never use acid core for electronics, because the acid will lead to joint corrosion.
Congratulations, you are now a graduate of the Donald E. Kincaid, Ph.D Clemson University, Professor Emeritis Physics, North Georgia College and State University, and my undergrad friend, mentor & advisor, school of soldering!!
Hope this helps and happy soldering!
Mike
Get yer soldering iron and while it is cold, take a file to it and remove any corrosion off of the tip. Down to the shiny copper is best.
Then heat the iron up and "tin" it by allowing some solder to melt on the tip and wick around the entire tip.
Parallel wrap the wires to be soldered, then apply a bit of solder on the iron to form a small ball. Touch the ball of solder to the back of the wires such that the solder ball is firmly against the wire and iron. Apply solder to the top of the wire (not the iron) and let it run and wick all the wires. Keep the iron against the wire until it is hot enough to melt the solder, and until you finish. When it gets all silver looking (tinned), remove the iron, and viola, you have a good solder joint.
The key is using the solder ball to get the heat transfer into the wire, and then tinning the wire on the top with the solder. This method will prevent you from having a weak or cold solder joint.
If your iron gets corroded/black from the rosin, get a wet sponge and rub the tip on it to remove the black shit, and yes you do this when the iron is at full operating temp.
Always use rosin core solder for electronics, and never use acid core for electronics, because the acid will lead to joint corrosion.
Congratulations, you are now a graduate of the Donald E. Kincaid, Ph.D Clemson University, Professor Emeritis Physics, North Georgia College and State University, and my undergrad friend, mentor & advisor, school of soldering!!
Hope this helps and happy soldering!
Mike
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