The OEM clutch has always been underestimated, I've put and witnessed others put the OEM clutch through "brutal" conditions and not fail. 500whp+ applications in both drag, auto-x, and drift conditions. Will the stocker wear out faster in these harsh conditions? Yes. Especially drag. In a performance oriented vehicle, it is to be expected that special and additional maintenance/repair will be the norm. Even in daily driving situations, just running that higher pressure plate is going to induce faster wear on its supporting parts.
That said, I do not believe any aftermarket pressure plate is to blame. These manufacturers are building their parts to specifications that have been established for decades. I find it hard to believe that the S197 platform somehow warrants special specifications. After all, what's so special about the S197's hydralic clutch system that differs so far from a WRX? Or Camaro? Or GTO? Or Ford GT? The list goes far and wide for other brands hydralic clutch system.
The 2 parts that stand out to me are the Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder. The hose line is rated several times higher psi than what it will ever see in the system. But a braided line is a common place upgrade and easy to do. The slave is probably the least complicated part in the system. It's only function is to push the pressure plate utilizing hydralic pressure provided by the Master Cylinder. A failure on the part of the Slave would involve either a failed bearing or leak, and the leak would be visible. With exception, depending on the specification of the pressure plate depth, the slave may need to be shimmed to position it within its proper throw range. This is likely why the Exedy is among the most popular choice of clutch, as it follows on point or very close to OEM dimentions, making it relatively plug n play. So I don't feel the Slave is an issue when it comes to clutch problems, bar the minor exception.
The Master Cylinder is the key component in the hydralic clutch system. If you have a problem with your clutch, IMO it's going to come down to this part. The OEM unit in the S197 GT and most GT500's is a plastic body. This should cry foul from the get go. Plastic is notorious for warping under heat and pressure. It's also worth note that there are far fewer OEM clutch setups with complaints than there are aftermarket clutch setups with complaints. Aftermarket clutches generally have higher clamping force via inertially heavier pressure plate. Now the Master Cylinder must provide additional hydrallic pressure beyond it's OEM rating. It is my opinion that the Master is flexing/warping under pressure, causing the interal seals to leak by. If the seals leak, there may not be enough pressure provided to the slave to push the pressure plate completely off the clutch, thus grinding gears, hard to get in 1st/reverse, and idle rolls with depressed clutch in-gear. The '13 GT500 Master is a metal body, better seals, better design. It has a different dimentional throw than the OE GT Master, which is where the hunt begins for shimming the slave. In most cases, with no shims, the engagement point is going to be higher on the pedal compared to stock. Personally, I don't feel it's an issue, you get used to it fairly quick. Could it over-throw the pressure plate? Possibly, but not by much. I ran it for years before I sold the car and never had clutch issues after the GT500 MC went in. For those He-Man shifting their gear box, congratz on your world-class bench pressing, and enjoy fixing your gear fork, you fucked yourself jackass. If you have to flex a bicep to change gears, you're either doing it wrong or setup is so jacked you should stop driving it before you cause more damage. For those who already ground their synchro's out of existance, *shrug* fix em, or buy a reman, and get yourself a GT500 MC. Stop missing gears!