Vallee’s Forged 4.6 Aluminator Build Thread

[Vallee]

Vallee’s Forged 4.6 Aluminator Build Thread

Just to summarize - Back in early 2010, I purchased and installed the 2005 - 2008 Mustang TVS2300 ROUSHCharger Single Belt Phase 2 Kit on my otherwise stock 05 Mustang GT. This build was documented on fnsweet until the website took a total dump.

Archive/Reference; Current Engine Build Configuration:

• TVS2300 ROUSHCharger
• GT500 Duel Fuel Pumps
• FRPP Fuel Injectors, 52lb/hr
• GT500 TB
• MSD Blaster High voltage coil packs
• JBA Shorty ceramic headers
• Professional product harmonic balancer, stock Dia.
• 3.47” blower pulley producing around 10~11psi of boost
• JDM Tuned - Estimated @475hp

Since installing the TVS Supercharger, like many others, I ultimately want to build a bulletproof engine that can reliably take full advantage of what the TVS has to offer. My personal goal is to achieve somewhere around 540~560 hp on pump gas, which I think is relatively achievable as the engine build configuration would be similar to what is found on the 2010 Roush Stage-3/540RH (with the exception of the duel belt FEAD system). A good friend of mine (although a devoted GM guy) is a very talented engine machinist and high-performance engine builder. The original plan was to build and install the engine last spring but unfortunately I ran into finical constraints and had to put everything on hold. During that time I’ve been saving and collecting additional miscellaneous parts and following other builds, reading and researching what other have done which has brought up some new questions and concerns.

Some areas of concern are:

· Oil Pump; I had originally planned on using the oil pump that is supplied with the Aluminator however after some reading I think it’s probably a good idea to install a set of TSS gears. I’ve also read how the new 13’ GT500 pump is fitted with a more robust “billet” backing plate. Some claim the original designed cast plate could flex and cause a sudden drop in oil pressure. Should I consider the new GT500 backing plate upgrade as well?? If I did, I think would just swap out the plate, not the entire pump as I do not want to risk altering the oil pressure.

· Timing chain tensioners; I’ve seen some who have ditched OEM 3V plastic timing chain tensioners in favor of the older style Ford OEM 2 Valve Steel Bodied Tensioners. I’ve never heard of any failures from the 3V plastic ones, but I have seen instances where the gaskets have blown out around them. I assume the steel ones are more robust?? This True?

· Harmonic dampener; my current build uses a 90040 Professional Products PowerForce Plus SFI Harmonic Dampener. I’ve had good luck with this dampener, and had planned on reusing it. Should I upgrade to an ATI? The car is not a daily driver and I don’t plan on running the piss out of it.

· Clutch/Flywheel; I am pretty sure I am going with McLeod for both. The question is – should I go RXT, or will the RST be plenty strong for occasional street strip use. Again, the car is not a daily driver and I don’t plan on running the piss out of it.

Here is my planned build Part List (Format: P/N SKU Item Description -Status)

M-6009-A463SC FRPP 4.6L 3V Aluminum Forged Short Block 8.7:1 CR for SC -Inventory
M-6067-3V46 Ford Racing SOHC 3V 4.6L Head Changing Kit -Inventory
127350 Comp Cams 127350 XFI VSR Stage 2 Blower Camshafts -Inventory
26113-24 COMP CAMS BEEHIVE HIGH LIFT 4.6 3V VALVE SPRINGS SET -Inventory
700-24 COMP Spring Retainers -Inventory
Custom 2.75” blower pulley estimated 14~16psi of boost -Inventory
M-6675-MSVT Ford Racing High Capacity Oil Pan -Inventory
M-6050-N3VPA Ford Racing M-6050-N3VPA - Ford Racing Modular Cylinder Head -Inventory
M-6049-N3VPA Ford Racing M-6049-N3VPA - Ford Racing Modular Cylinder Head -Inventory
M-6004-463V Ford Racing Camshaft Drive Kit -Inventory
M-6582-FR3VBLK Ford Racing Black "FORD RACING etched" 3-Valve Camshaft Covers -Inventory
M-6529-3V Ford Racing Modular 3V Head Rocker Arm and Lash Adjuster Kit -Inventory
7R3Z-6019-A Ford 4.6 3V TIMING COVER -Inventory
F8AZ-6A008-AA Ford 4.6 3V Cylinder Head Alignment Dowels -Need to Order
WP346S Meziere Enterprises 55gpm Electric Water Pump -Nice to Have
WIK346 Meziere Enterprises Electric Water Pump Relay -Nice to Have
F6AZ-6L266-CA Ford OEM 2 Valve Steel Bodied Tensioner, Left -Nice to Have
F6AZ-6L266-DA Ford OEM 2 Valve Steel Bodied Tensioner, Right -Nice to Have
FLAZ-6B316-AA Ford OEM Crankshaft Key Need to Order
M-12405-3V12MM Ford Racing Supercharger Spark Plug - 3V 12MM – Cold -Need to Order
918039 ATI, Super Damper Serpentine Series -Nice to Have?
TSS-6600GC TSS billet oil pump gears 2005-2010 Mustang 4.6 3V motor. -Need to Order
F65Z-6840-A Oil Filter Adapter Gasket -Need to Order
M-6379-B Ford Racing Flywheel Bolts (8 pack) -Need to Order
F6ZZ-7600-A Ford Pilot Bearing -Need to Order
6932-03 McLeod RXT CLUTCH, MUSTANG 4.6/5.4L 1 1/16" X 10 SPLINE -Need to Order
563408 McLeod Aluminum Flywheel 8 bolt -Need to Order

I look forward to reading your feedback. Thanks.

Adam

 

[weather man]

I asked my builder about going aftermarket on timing tensioner. He responded that he has never seen a failure despite a LOT of cars coming through his shop. I will use stock with my 3.4 whipple build coming together.

There is a thread on here about adding the backing plate. I personally just PM'd JDM on here what my build was and ordered the GT500 pump with TSS gears from them put together.

 

[eighty6gt]

I'm willing to bet you'll never see a shattered Ford pump, esp. with that back plate, without something else letting go prior; ie rods or crank.

I've seen more failures with steel timing chain tensioners than with the plastic.

 

[BruceH]

I'm willing to bet you'll never see a shattered Ford pump, esp. with that back plate, without something else letting go prior; ie rods or crank.

I've seen more failures with steel timing chain tensioners than with the plastic.

The plastic tensioners came out as an improvement over the steel ones. The steel ones have a ratchet mechanism that can and does stick resulting in broken tensioner arms. The plastic are spring loaded so they keep tension on even without oil pressure.

I'm with you, the plastic tensioners are the way to go.

 

[swflastang05]

2013 GT500 oil pump w/TSS gears here, also ATI balancer FTW! Nice build BTW,

 

[Scott]

Adam good luck with the build!

Here is the oil pump DIY.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110929

 

[Vallee]

Adam good luck with the build!

Here is the oil pump DIY.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110929

Scott,

Great job on Pump upgrade DYI thread! I will defentely be doing this!!

 

[Scott]

Scott,

Great job on Pump upgrade DYI thread! I will defentely be doing this!!

Thanks Adam, if you have not done so already you may want to take a look at my Aluminator build thread.

 

[Vallee]

Thanks Adam, if you have not done so already you may want to take a look at my Aluminator build thread.

I have and I'll be using that as reference as well.. And I'm sure I'll be bugging you in the near future.... Thanks!

 

[DiMora]

In for the build!

 

[Vallee]

In for the build!

Yes I am... Better late than never... But I guess the way I should look at it, now that I've had some time to do a little more research I think I can do a better build than I probably would've done last year.

 

[skwerl]

No problem hitting your hp goals. I had 643 in my 4.6 3v build utilizing a TVS1900 overspun with a 12% overdrive crank pulley and FRPP stage 3 heads.

Welcome to S197. I got booted by that idiot on fnsweet when he screwed up the forum by switching it to a mobile platform and not backing it up first. He didn't like me telling him how badly he screwed the pooch, easier to ban your critics than fix your mistakes.

 

[Vallee]

TSS gear set and 2013 GT500 pump ordered. FYI, it appears the pump assembly may be on it's way to discontinued. For those that have not yet ordered the pump assembly I hope this is not the case...

 

[Vallee]

Small update.

The 2013 GT500 oil pump just arrived and TSS gears are on back-order until mid Jan.

Because I am running a 2.75" blower pulley I think I'm going to do to a 8-rib conversion. I've already designed the new blower pulley and am in the process of designing new idler pulleys as well. In the meantime I'm trying to generate a list of "off the shelf" 8-rib pulleys for the alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor. I know there is a lot of information on the internet so my research will continue.... If any of you have advice or input you'd like to share that would be greatly appreciated.

So far, I think I am going to go with the Innovators west 8 rib harmonic balancer. I also want to stick with the factory clutch style alternator pulley I think the one in the link below will work.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/qs20852003---clutch-pulley-for-denso-alternators.aspx

Here is the new 8-rib blower pulley design in the works..

 

[BruceH]

IIRC I used Navigator parts for my 8 rib conversion. Be careful when pulling the ac pulley because it's easy to snap it off if you forget the snap ring. The ps pulley is the most challenging to get off.

Edit: Save your money and use the stock coils. There isn't anything better that will direct swap in.

 

[Vallee]

Very small update,
I recently finished designing the new 8-rib serpentine belt FEAD pulley system, See illustration below. I also had the my local shop install Comp’s 26113-24 valve springs for my 127350 cams. We did notice that the spring rate is very similar to stock; the main deference is the wire diameter is smaller which allows the spring to compress further before coil-binding. And unfortunately, we also noticed one of the cylinder heads has a very small scratch near the water jacket (I should have inspected it more thoroughly when I received it) you can hardly feel it with your nail, I am guessing it’s no more than .002 deep and It’s about .200” away from the combustion chamber so the gasket easily covers it, I am told it should be okay, what your thoughts?

 

[weather man]

I'd be tempted to take a very very fine grit just to just gently knock any edge off that scratch. If told not to worry by someone knowledgeable, keep moving forward.

 

[Vallee]

Well Folks - I do have a small update for you.... I know I'm moving stupid slow, but I've been crazy busy with everything else

So,

The FEAD pulleys design is finalized.

The Engine is removed, ECU and all the wiring is removed, AC system will be deleted and I am going to have the engine bay smoothed and painted (show room quality job) prior to reinstalling the new engine. hope to have more updates shortly.. Stay tuned.

 

[Vallee]

Very small update -

Before I purchase the crank damper I'd like to understand my projected Boost. Ideally, I'd like to be around 15~16psi. To keep my estimation simple I’m working with what I know; My old TVS setup netted me approximately 10psi and the Roush TVS R2300 Stage 2 “as supplied” I’m told should net approximately 13psi. See image attached below. The linear equation was established from two data points and as such, assumes that there is a linear relationship between drive ratio and boost. I am also using a static compression ratio of 9.8:1, my build will have around 8.6:1 so I expect boost levels will be slightly less than my calculation. Let me know if this seems correct.



Regarding the build -
I removed the CPT Reluctor Wheel and VCT components off the stock motor.
I have to say – I’m very impressed how clean the engine is, I've always ran Mobil 1.
The original engine is now tucked away and ready for another project down the road.
Starting on the assembly of the new motor shortly – I’ll be sure to post photos as I move along.

see some teaser images below...

 

[Vallee]

Well guys, due to the photo-fu#kit debacle and lack of time I've have not provided any updates. Well.... wait no longer, here they are... enjoy.

its been a busy summer but I did make some progress, still working with Lito on the tuning...

Basic recap:

Blower ported with VMP's high flow elbow inlet.

before port match:

After port match:

Welded in the (05 only) oil temp sensor into the GT500 aluminum oil pan:

Designed and machined my own 8-rib pulley FEAD drive.

Before anodize:

After Hard-coat Anodize, not as pretty but better durability:

TSS Pump Gears, with GT500 heavy duty backer plate...

AFCO products help keep it cool.

Intercooler Radiator:

Radiator

Random Engine Assembly/Install photos: