Wanna boost an 05 Gt Daily Driver but have some questions

Mustang Jake

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Im looking at supercharging with Dep. Of boost on my 05 Mustang gt. It’s an auto with 120k, kooks long tunes catted x and magna flow magna packs with a steeda cai and 3.73 rear gears. Does anyone else have a Daily driven FI car and if so will it put that much extra stress on the engine? I would probably go to 400-425 hp I know 450 is the limit
 

Lowfast

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Maybe to a compression test to make sure things are good. But if you keep the power at reasonable levels it should be fine. Now there is always the possibility something could break, that is just luck of the draw.
 

Mustang Jake

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But it’s still very streetable? That’s what I’m more worried about is having to set the Stang aside because it’s too much for going back and forth from work
 

jhunt47

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Been boosted on mine for over a year at 119k is when I installed the supercharger. I now have 130k and everything is going good. My last dyno run at 94 degrees day was 466/435 and have no worries at this time. I put about 6k miles a year on it.
 

Lowfast

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But it’s still very streetable? That’s what I’m more worried about is having to set the Stang aside because it’s too much for going back and forth from work

Streetable is all about controlling your right foot. Stay out of boost and it will drive just like it does now.
 

Mustang Jake

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Even with a roots style blower? From what I’ve read centrifugal is good for top end pull and screw and roots are better low end. So even with a roots blower it won’t make boost immediately?
 

Lowfast

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It makes boost very early, but you still have to purposefully put your foot into it. It does not turn your throttle into on/off switch, you still can modulate the throttle just as before. Have you ever driven a car/truck with a supercharger?
 

Mustang Jake

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No, but I’ve driven some small turbo cars. Nobody around me is FI at least not that I know
 

Mustang Jake

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Thanks! Yeah I’ll hopefully do it here soon within the year and just trying to have all of my ducks in a row. Anything I should do before having the blower put on?
 

46addict

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Once you go over a certain amount of boost (12+ psi?) on a positive displacement blower I have read it's harder to modulate the throttle because anything beyond a couple inches of pedal depression will close the bypass valve and feed boost into the engine. I'm a centrifugal guy so I can't tell you from experience. I know with mine I have to put the pedal down and let it build boost so there is no such thing as an accidental discharge. My engine spends most of its time out of boost.
 

jhunt47

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I’m running right at 10lbs of boost right now and as long as I don’t lay in it I can run all the way to 5500-6000 and not build boost. I’m running a pd blower and it drives no different as stock as long as I drive normal.

As far as what you should do before hand I would upgrade the rear suspension. New upper and lower controls arms. Also you should do tire upgrades.
With your mods 400-425hp will be easy to get to with low boost. So the engine should live awhile. The 5r55 though may be your weak link.
 

07 Boss

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485 rwhp on 10 psi with a Whipple. I drive the car like its stolen. About 50K miles on her (blown) with plenty of track passes and she still runs strong. If your motor is sound it will hold it. Cannot stress enough that normal almost maintenance will keep it alive. Like it was stated above, IMO your tranny will give out before the motor.
 

Mustang Jake

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What kind of tires? I’m running Nitto extreme 265/50/ ZR 18 in tear and Nitto motivo 245/40ZR18 in the front and what control arms would be good? GT500 takeoffs?
 

Pentalab

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I have a small M90 on my 2010 auto...with 5.8 psi..and also LT's and catted H, 62mm tb. 94 tune. It pulls like a MoFo. My wife would never now there was a PD blower installed. I can easily wind it up to 6 krpm in 2nd or 3rd gear....and still not be into boost. You really have to have ur foot into it pretty deep b4 the boost comes on. Even then, I can easily feather the gas pedal, so I have say 1-2 psi boost, or any amount I want. Tell your tuner you want a normal throttle response, no light switch effect. They can change the throttle response via the throttle mapping. Some tuners will do the light switch throttle nonsense ...esp on NA cars... to provide the illusion of..'more power'.

The 5r55s is pos to begin with. I have 386 rwhp / 370 rwtq (482hp /462 tq at the crank). If it was a manual, it would be an easy 425 rwhp. As is, I had to install a 2nd auto tranny cooler in series with the oem tranny cooler. Then the deeper tranny pan (holds an extra 4 qts), which also came with a locking style dipstick) and drain plug on pan. Replaced oem atf with synthetic. Still not done. A jdm engineering catch can for the auto tranny also installed, otherwise you will puke out atf all over the road. The oem setup has no dipstick, so u have no easy way to check level... or add to it. Without the B+M auto tranny cooler, the tranny temps would rise from 170-200 F in just a few secs.
The 5r55s auto tranny is marginal to begin with, don't push it. Avoid stuff like a 5-3 or 5-2, or 4-2 downshift. It's the downshifts that trash stuff. Shut the OD off if ur gonna hot rod. The tune for the auto has to be carefully done..or it will not last. Shifts have to be firmer + faster with the blower engaged.
 

flipper

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I have the Edelbrock Stage 1 on my 2010 4.6 3V. Love it. 5 lbs of boost, easy on the motor. A “plug and play” type system in the sense it’s designed to work with a stock car. No need to upgrade exhaust or drivetrain components. 452 RWHP. Very helpful and knowledgeable tech support people as well. I have only 10000 miles on my car, so I can’t comment on the system with your miles. Good luck...
 

Pentalab

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Okay, so what could I do to beef up the tranny?

With 120K miles on it, I would be inclined to remove it, and get it refurbished. The bands + clutches, esp 3rd gear, are what go 1st. You really need the HD versions installed, along with the other usual items that are upgraded in the 5r55s. The input shaft on the 5r55s is a puny 12mm (just under 1/2"). I have 51K miles on my 2010 auto, and the blower was installed when car had aprx 27 k miles. Shortly after the blower install, then the various external tranny mods got installed. With the 2nd tranny cooler plumbed in series with the oem cooler, the tranny temps will go from 170 F to maybe 171 or sometimes 172F with blower on. B4 it would go from 170-200F in just a few secs.
The oem 5r55s won't last a week with 500 rwhp.
 

Mustang Jake

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So I already have a second transmission cooler, so would it be better to just get a low mileage tranny and build that one?
 

Pentalab

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So I already have a second transmission cooler, so would it be better to just get a low mileage tranny and build that one?

Getting a 2nd, low mileage 5r55s might be the ticket. At least then you can still use the car in the meantime.... until the swap occurs. You might want to run it past some 5r55s rebuild experts. There was a recent 5r55s thread just a short time ago. One fellow found a source for rebuilt 5r55s at a reasonable price, rebuilt right, with all the hd parts. You could probably use ur old tranny as the core..to offset the price of the rebuilt unit. Then the swap could be done quicker.
 

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