What else do I need for Install?

[Liberty911]

I'm keeping my Shaker 500 but replacing the door and rear deck speakers, adding a sub w/enclosure in truck, and amp under the seat The 8" door subs with OEM amps are staying. Here is what I have so far:

Door Speakers
[FONT=&quot]INFINITY KAPPA 693.9i 3 way speakers - RMS: 220 watts per pair / 110 watts each / 2ohm[/FONT]


Rear Deck Speakers
INFINITY KAPPA 682.9cf 6x8 2 way speakers - RMS: 200 watts per pair / 100 watts each/ 2ohm

Sub Woofer
[FONT=&quot]INFINITY 1262W 12" Sub - 100-300 watts RMS / 4ohm
MTX Thunderform Sub Enclosure (unloaded)

[/FONT]Amp
Alpine PDX-5 - 75 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts RMS x 1

Connectors
PAC AOEM-FRD24 - Interface that Allows Replacement or Addition of an Amplifier in Select 2004-up Ford Vehicles without Factory Amplified THX Sound System
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18704_PAC-AOEM-FRD24.html

Tsuami 4 Guage Amp Install Kit for up to 850w RMS

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14602_Tsunami-AMP850BL.html


I also have heat shrink tubing.


What else will I need? I am thinking 18 gauge speaker wire for the sub. Do I need to run speaker wires to the doors and rear deck or use the OEM existing wiring, and if so what gauge? Do I use a speaker wire to RCA adapter, and if so how many channels? I notice there are 2 and 4 channel units.

Is there anything else that comes to mind for the install? Sorry for the ignorance, but this is a first time learning experience. Thanks in advance.

 

[LAK3RS]

You should definitely get a different amp for your door speakers. It's always better to overpower your speakers and subs compared to under-powering them as it will cause premature failure at times. Just a recommendation as I've seen quite a few speakers blown due to under-powering them. Also, it's completely up to you on if you want to swap out the wiring. IMO, you might as well while your there. BTW, the Alpine PDX 5 is a solid amp, and extremely easy to work with. I'd also like to recommend you swap out the stock head unit, as you will not experience the best possible sound out of your new set up going through the stocker without any modifications.

 

[Liberty911]

Thanks for your input. I never heard or read anything about overpowering the speakers with an amp. It seems counter intuitive, but I did a little more research and it makes sense. It seems that marketing adds to the confusion. I know I will have lesser quality with the Shaker HU, but really want to keep the OEM look if possible and will accept a trade off in sound quality.

Edit: After further research the birth sheets I can find on the PDX-5 are showing between 110-125 RMS x 4 + 330-388 RMS x 1. With the 110 RMS and 100 RMS Infinity speakers, and 100-300RMS sub, I should be pretty close to matching. I now understand that is better to overpower the speakers, but I really have more money into this than I wanted. I guess bridging would not be an option to run only the front speakers since it would push 4 ohm of amp into 2 ohm speakers.

After further research, it looks like I will also need a 2 channel LOC to tap into the pre-amp door sub wiring, then run the RCA to the sub input in the amp then back to the 12" sub. Should this 2 channel sub be passive or powered?

I was also considering 16 gauge speaker wire for the amp'ed speakers and 14 gauge for the sub.

 

[LAK3RS]

That's about right for that amp. I'm sure you'll be perfectly fine with it. Honestly, something I'd recommend to you is hooking up your speakers with the stock wiring, then swapping in the 16 gauge wiring to hear the difference. If you have time of course. IMO, I like knowing that doing something makes a difference, and being able to hear the difference makes me feel pretty good, lol.

Regarding the sub issue, I'm not exactly sure as I do not have the Shaker 500 or 1000. I was blessed to find a car with out that when I purchased mine, lol. I'll try to find out on that for ya though.

 

[Liberty911]

I would try the OEM speaker wiring, but I would have to run it extend it and run it too the amp. I don't want to do that twice.

On the truck sub issue, what is the best way to get a signal to the amp to feed the sub? I've read the best is to use a LOC into the wiring before the door sub to get a signal. I have also read to tap into the rear speaker wiring with a LOC.

Since I an running the PAC adapter that has front and rear / left and right / RCA outputs to tap into the signal to feed the front and rear speaker connections to the amp, it is possible just to use two "Y" connectors at the RCA outputs that supply the rear speakers and use one connection at each "Y" to supply a left and right input to the amp for the sub?

Or do I have to use a separate LOC for the sub?