What eng T stat F rating do you use ?

[07 Boss]

I have never used an electric water pump. I am considering it. If I install an electric water pump, can I use it to cool down the engine between rounds at the drag strip? If you run your electric pump with the engine off, does the coolant flow or does the tstat stop the flow?
Thanks for the help.

Wherever your Tstat is set, it will cool it to that point.



I have mine set up to run when I want with the motor off. The pump along with the fan will allow you to pretty much hot lap it if you want. Takes only a few minutes to cool the motor down and then I would leave the fan on to remove as much excess heat from the rest of the engine bay and prevent heat soak. I used to run about every 15-20 minutes with no drop in times due to heating issues.

 

[Heaten m90]

I’ve found, do to the impeller wheel design the stock hub adapter pully does somewhat lack diameter size and this can cause the formation of low pressure air pockets at sustained high engine RPM.
Running a variable electric water pump seems more efficient than its mechanical counterparts. However maintaining the proper desired engine oil temperature is virtually more important as this effects viscosity and oil wedge characteristics(surface load vs film tension strength )
Things like Fuel, front valance, splitter design, Radiator degree/angel*, ducting, defusing, cooling system capacity and glycol percentage play greater rolls in preventing excessive engine temp.
Fuel consumption(thermal efficiency) and EPA regulations likely lead to a 190 degree tstat becoming standardized during those years. As well as service life due to less frequent opening cycles

 

[travelers]

Wherever your Tstat is set, it will cool it to that point.



I have mine set up to run when I want with the motor off. The pump along with the fan will allow you to pretty much hot lap it if you want. Takes only a few minutes to cool the motor down and then I would leave the fan on to remove as much excess heat from the rest of the engine bay and prevent heat soak. I used to run about every 15-20 minutes with no drop in times due to heating issues.

That is the normal way the drag cars are setup. At least that's the way we had the SS/AH car setup. The only thing you have to watch with the car not running is the batt. drain. Depending on how long you run one or both you may need to have a charger on the batt while doing this.

 

[07 Boss]

That is the normal way the drag cars are setup. At least that's the way we had the SS/AH car setup. The only thing you have to watch with the car not running is the batt. drain. Depending on how long you run one or both you may need to have a charger on the batt while doing this.

Yes, I did forget to mention that you must watch your voltage. Sucks to have to get a jump in the staging lanes, not that I would know anything about that....

 

[travelers]

Yes, I did forget to mention that you must watch your voltage. Sucks to have to get a jump in the staging lanes, not that I would know anything about that....

Hahahaha neither I, we had 2 12v batts in the trunk

 

[Pentalab]

The electric water pumps I looked at a few years ago put out a constant gpm, eq of the mech pump, with eng at 3.5 krpm. At idle, the electric pumps put out one helluva lot of flow vs oem mech pump...but this advantage reduces at higher rpms. At 3.5 krpm, the electric + mech pumps were the same gpm. > 3.5 krpm, the mech pump put out more gpm. Big difference on the mech pump between say 600 rpm and 6000 rpm. That's a 10:1 ratio. I looked at it some more, and found a few folks who had installed the electric water pumps on 05-09 cars. Several of them had the electric pump fail after 12-18 months. Coolant temps skyrocketed asap of course. With functioning good electric pump, the rwhp typ would increase by almost 15 rwhp...on 05-09 cars. On a 2010 3V, the electric pump only made a marginal 3 rwhp improvement. There is something different in the design of the 2010 oem mech pump vs the 05-09 version, I still have not figured that one out yet. Since I have a 2010, I decided to leave it alone.

 

[travelers]

I had one of these on my '07 and worked good, but ending up selling it so I don't know how it lasted.

• Suitable for street or drag strip use – 3000+ hour life expectancy
• Our 2 year, unlimited mileage guarantee and full satisfaction money back guarantee should convince you that buying Meziere is buying value!

 

[07 Boss]

The electric water pumps I looked at a few years ago put out a constant gpm, eq of the mech pump, with eng at 3.5 krpm. At idle, the electric pumps put out one helluva lot of flow vs oem mech pump...but this advantage reduces at higher rpms. At 3.5 krpm, the electric + mech pumps were the same gpm. > 3.5 krpm, the mech pump put out more gpm. Big difference on the mech pump between say 600 rpm and 6000 rpm. That's a 10:1 ratio. I looked at it some more, and found a few folks who had installed the electric water pumps on 05-09 cars. Several of them had the electric pump fail after 12-18 months. Coolant temps skyrocketed asap of course. With functioning good electric pump, the rwhp typ would increase by almost 15 rwhp...on 05-09 cars. On a 2010 3V, the electric pump only made a marginal 3 rwhp improvement. There is something different in the design of the 2010 oem mech pump vs the 05-09 version, I still have not figured that one out yet. Since I have a 2010, I decided to leave it alone.

Here is my take on epumps.

Yes you can have failures, but mechanical pumps fail too. I have run electric pumps for decades and have yet had one fail. Had some wiring issues once but the pump never failed. The first one that I installed in my mustang about 8 years ago still worked when I swapped it out. The only reason I swapped it out was when I had the front cover off I switched it for one with a stronger dummy pulley. If you run a HD aftermarket belt tensioner it is recommended to get the pump with the HD pulley. But the standard pump worked well for years with the blower and tensioner, It was for more peace of mind. I still have the ole epump if you're interested in it. I was keeping it around for a back up but I still have the OEM one as well.

Yes the mechanical will pump more above a certain rpm but it is not as important in the efficiency of the cooling system at speed because of the air flow. Where the added flow helps is when the system is stressed the most which is when there is no air flow. My temp gauge never gets to the full middle position of the gauge since installing the pump. I drive my car like it's stolen, and with the high desert temps and AC running on a boosted motor, it remains below where it was NA with a mechanical pump. I will vouch for it's efficiency over the stock all day because of my years of experience with it.

It should pick up a little power just from lowering the parasitic drag on the belt system. That, along with the lower temps should net you some power gains, but where I think it helps the most is in the longevity of your motor. We all know heat is the enemy.

There are a couple of pluses of running an epump besides the efficiency factor and running a cooler motor. If you snap or shred a belt you aren't stranded. I always carry an extra belt (good practice if you run a blower) but if I didn't I could drive the car for miles on the battery without blowing up the motor. And we have already discussed the advantages at the drag strip.

I just think the pluses outweigh the minuses. I mean the only real downside may be it's reliability (which I have yet to experience) but I have seen some hook a warning light up if the pump fails. Either way I will run the risk of a pump failure to gain the advantages.

 

[NickD87]

07boss
I was just looking at purchasing an electric pump
So you have the big black HD version?
I run a dob kit with the doubled up tensioners and was unsure which I needed. I also was thinking of bypassing it with the belt and running the pump without idler?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[07 Boss]

07boss
I was just looking at purchasing an electric pump
So you have the big black HD version?
I run a dob kit with the doubled up tensioners and was unsure which I needed. I also was thinking of bypassing it with the belt and running the pump without idler?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

This one.




You can see the pulley is much larger and can accommodate a really wide belt.

Here is the old one.



Not only is the pulley wider to accommodate larger belts it also has heavier bearings in it.

 

[NickD87]

This one.




You can see the pulley is much larger and can accommodate a really wide belt.

Here is the old one.




Not only is the pulley wider to accommodate larger belts it also has heavier bearings in it.

Pics are the same but yeah that looks like the $800 HD one.
Where did you get the billet pullies from they look good.

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[07 Boss]

Pics are the same but yeah that looks like the $800 HD one.
Where did you get the billet pullies from they look good.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Sorry, changed the pic.

I think I got the pulleys from Metco.

Oh I forgot to mention that you need to run the dummy pulley to insure proper belt wrap around the other accessories and pulleys.

 

[jdlatil]

What’s part number for HD unit.

 

[Sky Render]

I wonder how well an electric pump would work on a road race setup? The 3,500-RPM equivalent flow thing would worry me at WOT on long straights.

 

[Pentalab]

I wonder how well an electric pump would work on a road race setup? The 3,500-RPM equivalent flow thing would worry me at WOT on long straights.

Good point. Exactly what I was thinking...or any other scenario with sustained high rpm. On a similar note, how much current does the mezziere 55 gpm pump draw ? Whatever it is, it will be a constant load on the alternator / battery setup. Which might just kill a battery pretty quick if the belt broke.