WOT box troubleshoot

[Johnstone]

I just got a N2mb wot box installed. From the garage the car started well.. i get the car towed home since its winter time here in mtl. I wanted to program it and start messing with it. I was never able to connect to it and decided to try a firmware update.. not only i cannot connect, now the car wont start!

I emailed support and trying to figure this out on my own.

Anyone have one installed?

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[Wes06]

My serial cable was defective from purchase. The cable they ship is cheapest of the cheap, and not 100% sure it would work every time.

It shouldnt prevent the car from starting, unless maybe one of the wire connections they made was weak and failed in that time?

Id double check all the connections that were made to install the wotbox

 

[Johnstone]

My serial cable was defective from purchase. The cable they ship is cheapest of the cheap, and not 100% sure it would work every time.

It shouldnt prevent the car from starting, unless maybe one of the wire connections they made was weak and failed in that time?

Id double check all the connections that were made to install the wotbox

I was able to recover the firmware but my battery is drained. Ill have to give her a boost tomorow and try her out.

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[RocketcarX]

You paid to have product installed and the shop didn't test it?

 

[eighty6gt]

I knew skwerl was right about this thing

 

[Johnstone]

After a few attempts i was able to fix the issue THAT was caused by me! When doing a firmware upgrade always make sure it completes properly hehe..

Another thing tge guys at N2mb are great.. Great service.

I cant wait to test her out.. i have it set launch at 3000rmp. We'l see

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[DiMora]

They work great if you install them correctly. Correctly wired, soldered, proper use of heatshrink, correct splices per the N2MB instructions... Absolutely NO crimp/splice connectors! See my how-to/ install thread .

 

[DiMora]

I knew skwerl was right about this thing

I guarantee you it is installer error.

 

[eighty6gt]

Solder/shrink should not be used on cars - I use crimp connectors with adhesive and shrink built in.

 

[SpecOps13]

Contact John or Jay @N2MB. They do great Customer Service.....

Best Advice I can give you... They are right Down the Street from me......

Tell em Grumpy told you to call.....

 

[Johnstone]

Contact John or Jay @N2MB. They do great Customer Service.....

Best Advice I can give you... They are right Down the Street from me......

Tell em Grumpy told you to call.....

They do have amanzing service. The guy was going back and forth with me by email at 9 p.m. in the evening great company

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[SpecOps13]

You probably talked with John. He tests and programs all the boxes and stores the bad ones in a parts bin. If he can't get you straight, no one on earth can. Got to be a bad connection, miswire or infant mortality.. Keep trying but a call would be best. He's not there every night so set up a time and day... Their 2 step WOT Box is the most advanced system IMHO. Works super on Crazy Horse... Jay and Ricardo installed it in their shop though.... Good Luck Bro.
Dave

 

[DiMora]

Solder/shrink should not be used on cars - I use crimp connectors with adhesive and shrink built in.

Noooooo

Crimps = failures

Read the N2MB instructions slso. They ONLY recommend solder.

 

[Pentalab]

Noooooo

Crimps = failures

Read the N2MB instructions slso. They ONLY recommend solder.

I concur. If you want a 100% bullet proof electrical connection, use a western union splice, then
solder it, then heat shrink. Then you end up with both a strong mechanical joint, plus a superb electrical joint. If doing several splices, each individual splice gets heat shrink. Then a big ID heat shrink goes over the entire mess. If you want to wrap the heat shrink in tape, use scotch 33/88 electrical tape. 33/88 tape is the gold standard for outdoor stuff. You can get it on line, or any electrical wholesaler. or home dept electrical dept. They come in individual tubs. I buy em 10 at a time.

If using heat shrink, make sure to slide the correct length of tubing over the over one of the wires to be spliced..1st. Make sure the tubing is the correct diameter...and also the correct length. If using heat shrink to cover up several heat shrink splices, the big heat shrink also has to be the correct length and an even bigger ID...and also slid over 1st..along with the smaller ID tubes.

 

[eighty6gt]

http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/amt-4123

https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

never have a problem again

don't fall for solder, it's a fool's game


the gardner bender extreme terminals have built in sealant that flows when you shrink them. They are even gasoline resistant.

 

[DiMora]

T

http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/amt-4123

https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

never have a problem again

don't fall for solder, it's a fool's game


the gardner bender extreme terminals have built in sealant that flows when you shrink them. They are even gasoline resistant.

Those are nice, but nothing is as good as solder. Solder is cheap, fast, and 100% reliable if the solder joint is good. Fool's game? No, crimps are! Crimps are lazy.

Crimps are subject to corrosion, water intrusion and vibration failure. The high quality ones you posted are better than most, but still cannot match a properly soldered connection. Many car stereo, aftermarket equipment installation (trailer lights, fog lights, U-haul harnesses, amp installs, line locks, etc.) failures and intermittent issues I have fixed were the result of crimp connectors. Crimps are for the lazy installer who doesn't know how to solder. You will NEVER see them in an ops critical installation (aviation, serious race cars, high end audio, high end speakers, must-work systems, etc.) everything is soldered and heat-shrunk.

Crimp and splice away as your heart desires on your car, but I will never do it to mine. I use WBT or Parts Express silver solder and 3M heat-shrink. I've NEVER had a connection fail.

 

[Pentalab]

Depending on the application, if crimp ring terminals are used, I will 1st crimp the connection, then solder it. I'm talking about stuff like sta-kon connectors. I use sta-kons for stuff like ring and also spade lugs, but that's all for non automotive applications.

 

[eighty6gt]

I used to solder, have moved on from techniques used by old telegraph companies.

https://prod.nais.nasa.gov/eps/eps_data/145968-OTHER-002-006.pdf

 

[Pentalab]

I used to solder, have moved on from techniques used by old telegraph companies.

https://prod.nais.nasa.gov/eps/eps_data/145968-OTHER-002-006.pdf

Check out pages 81 and esp 83 of the above nasa pdf. The western union soldered splice, plus heat shrink is still the defacto gold standard for an inline splice..at least for small gauge wires. For big gauge stuff, crimping is used..or crimped and soldered. Stranded wire is easier to work with vs solid, but either can be used, depending on the application. I have used inline butt sleeve crimps in the past, but I don't trust them.

 

[DiMora]

Depending on the application, if crimp ring terminals are used, I will 1st crimp the connection, then solder it. I'm talking about stuff like sta-kon connectors. I use sta-kons for stuff like ring and also spade lugs, but that's all for non automotive applications.

Same here.