Opinions on Clutch

Shelty

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Hey, been a while since Ive been on here.

My 2005 GT is pushing 85,000 miles, still has the original clutch. My plans for the winter is to turbo the car, so In the mean time, I want to take care of some supporting mods so I dont break anything.

Looking to go with the Centerforce Dual Friction. I had one in my old Foxbody and I liked it very much. How are these clutches in the S197?

Any other clutch companies worth looking at? Im not a fan of Spec, had one in said Fox circa 2007 and it wasnt great. With the turbo I'll be looking at 450ish+ to the wheels, so I need something that will hold the extra horsepower.

What other things should I upgrade while its apart? Im going to either replace the flywheel or have it turned.

What kind of slave cylinder/throw out bearing should I run? Ive seen the Exedy replacement, which looks like a stock replacement part

are braided lines worth the extra cost?

Does the clutch have its own hydraulic system? DFQ I know but Ive never messed with it at all.

Ive done the suspension on this car, the rear is rebuilt, the brakes are upgraded, so now I want to turn up the power


Thanks
 

BruceH

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The DF is a bad choice. They are known to blow slave cylinders. Mine did as have others.

An Exedy 07805 will hold your power level just fine and it will work with the slave. If you plan to turn it up higher in the future then I'd go with a McLeod RST.

When it comes to the slave cylinder I always go Motorcraft. Why? Because I don't like changing clutches and changing the slave is almost as bad. It's another $50 or so but this is one of those times that I'll pony up the extra money for a Motorcraft part.
 

ksack

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NO. Had the DF clutch before I scrapped it for a Spec 3+. It was locking me out of gear at higher RPMs. Here is a video with it....you can see how hard I'm working to get it into gear. Car was running 470hp @9psi

 

95ragtop

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I cannot recommend the Mach 500. Dealt with mine over the past year and led to pulling the trans several times and 2 blown TOBs. I even used the Exedy TOB the second time (it is a marked up Dorman unit).

After the second blown TOB I ponyed up the money for a twin disk setup. Still breaking in the clutch with only 300 miles, but great so far.
 

skwerl

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I also had the Exedy Mach 500 and did not care for it. Pedal was way too stiff and engagement was way too low on the pedal travel. I replaced it and sold it here on the forum (with full disclosure) and the person who bought it also ended up replacing it for the same reasons.
 

mrt2you

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as bruce says.
get a McLeod RST or the RXT. you won't regret it.
I make 650 rwhp and have a RXT now. the petal effort is less than stock. engagement is better than stock.
as long as it's apart get a Motorcraft slave also.
the line wouldn't be a bad choice. it certainty wouldn't be a downgrade.

you might think about upgrading the clutch master with a 2013 Gt500 one. I have read about this upgrade a LOT on this site.

I will be upgrading to a 6060 trans, rxt clutch, line upgrade, new slave, the master and a carbon fiber driveshaft soon.
I have the trans, slave, line and master. I will be ordering the clutch and driveshaft next week. I just sold my 72 hemi roadrunner and am waiting for the bank check to clear.
 
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redfirepearlgt

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I regretted my $1100 RST experience. Spoke with some guy at McLeod who was supposed to be the bee's knee's on clutches named Red. He told me that I could use the factory flywheel resurfaced or mate it up with any steel or aluminum flywheel. I asked about the Spec steel and he said yes. So I did so. Break in he told me was 800 miles. I did so. The clutch was the biggest disappointment I have ever had in any upgrade on any car I have ever owned. I suffered through the season with it, put 3K on it and was never so glad to replace it with an Exedy Mach 500 setup and matching flywheel. I gave it away. I wasn't about to ask someone to pay for that pos. A friend in need with his first on the way needed it for his car. He had chatter and shifting issues with it just as I did though there were no hot spots or indications of slippage on either disk or surface.

Put that Exedy in and loved it so much I went the same route on my 13 setup. Never regretted anything aside from maybe going Mach 600 on that car. 507RWHP on the 2005 and 568 RWHP on the 2013.
 
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BruceH

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I regretted my $1100 RST experience. Spoke with some guy at McLeod who was supposed to be the bee's knee's on clutches named Red. He told me that I could use the factory flywheel resurfaced or mate it up with any steel or aluminum flywheel. I asked about the Spec steel and he said yes. So I did so. Break in he told me was 800 miles. I did so. The clutch was the biggest disappointment I have ever had in any upgrade on any car I have ever owned. I suffered through the season with it, put 3K on it and was never so glad to replace it with an Exedy Mach 500 setup and matching flywheel. I gave it away. I wasn't about to ask someone to pay for that pos. A friend in need with his first on the way needed it for his car. He had chatter and shifting issues with it just as I did though there were no hot spots or indications of slippage on either disk or surface.

Put that Exedy in and loved it so much I went the same route on my 13 setup. Never regretted anything aside from maybe going Mach 600 on that car. 507RWHP on the 2005 and 568 RWHP on the 2013.

Had an RST with the 3650 and 6060. Both were awesome. It does pay to buy the McLeod flywheel though. Anything else won't have the proper inside dimension for full first disk contact. I used a Fidanza flywheel with the 3650 and it wasn't the proper dimension. Still worked fine but upon disassembly the difference in contact area was easy to see.



I even toasted the clutch once at the track trying to get the perfect launch. It stunk and wasn't gripping quite right. Let it cool down for a few hours and drove home (90 miles) nice and easy like I was breaking it in. The clutch came back and worked great. Everyone at the track was pretty sure I wouldn't even make it home.

It sounds like you had a warped flywheel.
 

RED09GT

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I have the exedy Mach 500 and lightened steel flywheel and I have no complaints. Pedal effort is a bit more than stock but no troubles with the engagement height, it is right where the stock clutch was.
I have a powerhouse turbo kit and it is making 488 rwhp and has seen at least 50 drag radial launches. The clutch outlived the spider gears at the track.
 
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redfirepearlgt

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Had an RST with the 3650 and 6060. Both were awesome. It does pay to buy the McLeod flywheel though. Anything else won't have the proper inside dimension for full first disk contact. I used a Fidanza flywheel with the 3650 and it wasn't the proper dimension. Still worked fine but upon disassembly the difference in contact area was easy to see.



I even toasted the clutch once at the track trying to get the perfect launch. It stunk and wasn't gripping quite right. Let it cool down for a few hours and drove home (90 miles) nice and easy like I was breaking it in. The clutch came back and worked great. Everyone at the track was pretty sure I wouldn't even make it home.

It sounds like you had a warped flywheel.

Would have had to be warped out of the box because it was brand spanking new. I don't doubt you have had good luck with them, but when The man they call RED who supposedly was the end all no it all of McLeod and been there from the start stamped his approval on the configuration without so much as a hint of saying go Mcleod on the flywheel. It only got worse and never got better. So again I must be that one person... Just adding my 0.02 since I have had such great drive ability and reliability with Exedy when others have not. Believe me I don't have $1100 to throw around on clutches so needsless to say I was pretty pissed off about the whole deal as well as the followup and lack of effort on their part.
 

BruceH

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Would have had to be warped out of the box because it was brand spanking new. I don't doubt you have had good luck with them, but when The man they call RED who supposedly was the end all no it all of McLeod and been there from the start stamped his approval on the configuration without so much as a hint of saying go Mcleod on the flywheel. It only got worse and never got better. So again I must be that one person... Just adding my 0.02 since I have had such great drive ability and reliability with Exedy when others have not. Believe me I don't have $1100 to throw around on clutches so needsless to say I was pretty pissed off about the whole deal as well as the followup and lack of effort on their part.

One thing about a twin disk is that it's not fool proof. If the floater is warped you will have issues, if the super light torques that are speced aren't followed you will have troubles, if the installer decided to take the floater apart and doesn't put back together exactly like it was from the factory there will be problems. If the factory screws up the floater plate shimming there will be problems.

You aren't the only person I've known who had issues with a McLeod twin disk. You are the only one I've known who did his own work and had issues. Unfortunately some "professional" mechanics don't read directions, follow torque specs, etc.

Both of mine only cost a little over $700 each, the prices must of gone up in the last few years. I switched to an Exedy 07806 (26 spline organic) when I put the Big Bore in. I have nothing but good things to say about Exedy. I think it has the same pressure plate as the Mach 350/400.

By the same token I have nothing good to say about Centerforce. Same reason as you don't like the RST, Centerforce caused me issues that I shouldn't of had to deal with.

Edit: I didn't care for the guy I talked to at McLeod when I had to call about a recall they had. Got the impression he was bothered to be answering questions from a customer. He was supposed to be a "guru".
 
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eighty6gt

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Bruce the 07806 is spec'd for the 01-04 cars, correct? Then you just need the proper throwout from Ford.

They're not even that expensive, it's what I plan on using.
 

redfirepearlgt

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One thing about a twin disk is that it's not fool proof. If the floater is warped you will have issues, if the super light torques that are speced aren't followed you will have troubles, if the installer decided to take the floater apart and doesn't put back together exactly like it was from the factory there will be problems. If the factory screws up the floater plate shimming there will be problems.

You aren't the only person I've known who had issues with a McLeod twin disk. You are the only one I've known who did his own work and had issues. Unfortunately some "professional" mechanics don't read directions, follow torque specs, etc.

Both of mine only cost a little over $700 each, the prices must of gone up in the last few years. I switched to an Exedy 07806 (26 spline organic) when I put the Big Bore in. I have nothing but good things to say about Exedy. I think it has the same pressure plate as the Mach 350/400.

By the same token I have nothing good to say about Centerforce. Same reason as you don't like the RST, Centerforce caused me issues that I shouldn't of had to deal with.

Edit: I didn't care for the guy I talked to at McLeod when I had to call about a recall they had. Got the impression he was bothered to be answering questions from a customer. He was supposed to be a "guru".

It was professionally installed by a well known speed shop locally. I am not factoring that into my loss though I should. Pricing $699 for the clutch kit, $299 for the flywheel and 6.5% in sales tax was just shy of $1100 bucks. Neither was reused. However you did jog my memory that a friend I offered the flywheel to free of charge as I did the clutch to a guy in desperate need, gave me $40 for the flywheel in spite of my insisting he just take it off my hands and try to get some use out of it. So let me rephrase and say just over $1000 LOL!

I was bitterly disappointed because I expected "cadillac results" on what was supposed to be "cadillac quality". Every one raved about the clutch so I forked out the money and was it a major disappointment. To date the single biggest waste and loss on money spent I have experienced on a modification. To some that would be a blessing. To others that would be a big loss. For me it was quite a hit in the pocket book at the time.
 
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702GT

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Did the '13 GT500 Master Cylinder, JPC braided clutch line, Motorcraft slave, Exedy Mach 400 clutch. It puts up with my abuse and power level like a champ. I don't track my car anymore, so I can't comment on sticky launches. Of all the things I changed along the way, I'm pretty sure the '13 GT500 Master makes the biggest difference. It will change your engagement point significantly higher on the pedal. Most casual shifting I really only need about 1/3 of the pedal throw. I don't get locked out of gears though.

My guess is the GT500 Master is over-extending the pressure plate, but I have no proof, just my guess from feeling the clutch and engagement. I make it a point not to slam it to the floor if I'm not really trying to fly through the gears. Nice thing about street terrorizing, it rarely requires that 1/4 mile-style gear jamming. Car has 70k/mi on it, 24k/mi on the new clutch setup, 18k/mi on since the D1 went on, and it feels like it'll last forever.
 

MassMustang

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redfirepearlgt

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I also went with the braided JPC feed line on the 13 as well. Only the FRPP was available at the time I did the 05 so I went with that. No need for a bleeder in either case. The 05 clutch was installed at a place 3.5 hours from home when the cams were added. I drove the car home and simply pumped up the clutch pedal occasionally. The next day when I went to go take it for a drive it was fine. No air remained in the line.

I had the 13 done locally. The guys at Finishline Performance were kind enough to have the system bled of air when I picked the car up. I think they pulled a vacuum on the master cylinder or just got their biggest leg guy in there to pump the clutch pedal until the air burped out through the master. Either way no need to waste money on a high dollar line with a bleeder or on a FRPP rigid line when the JPC unit will more than suffice.
 

429244

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I have used stock, RST, and RXT. I don't see the need for the RST. My RXT feels and acts the same but doesn't overheat at the strip. If you want a twin disk clutch and are thinking McLeod, go with the RXT. Pedal feel is like stock and I use the stock throw out bearing. It is best to use the McLeod flywheel (I have steel and that is what I prefer over any lightweight option). The stock flywheel won't work and you will have issues. I have one complainant (not counting cost) about the both the RST and RXT. My car is street driven and I get driveline vibrations caused by the clutch. I have seen only one seller mention this: http://www.jpcracing.com/mcleod-rst-twin-disc-clutch-kit-for-2001-5-2010-modular-ford-engines/ . They call them driveline feedback tones. I get that vibration listed in the ad. It is obnoxious. If you stay in that rpm range too long, you get misfire counts.
All of that being said, when this clutch wears out, I will be reluctant to try anything else for fear of high clutch pedal effort and strange engagement height.
 
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