PATS Issue? Or something else? Help!

nataliekaye91

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Hello all, I am new here. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer me. I have a 2013 GT - the car was in a minor accident. Idiot that had the car Had also removed all of dash, cluster, radio interface and the interior fuse box. was going to part it out I guess?

But Long story short, core support, grille, headlights and fuse box/ECU area was all busted in the wreck. ( I bought the car like this ).

Anyway, I have a donor car and swapped everything that was missing over to my car - ECU, fuse boxes, ect.

Now the car will not start. I’m guessing it’s a PATS issue as the light is flashing. I can hear the fuel pump prime. The cluster also reads “check charging system”.

I only have 1 key for the car. It is an original Admin key. Local dealership is not an option as I do not trust them to do a good job with the car.

I’ve read that a tune can be loaded onto it and can have PATS disabled. My Questions are:
1. Does this sound like a PATS issue?
2. Will I be able to load a tune the way the car is now? It does have power to the dash, ect. but never has made an attempt to start.
3. Was the issue with PATS caused probably by swapping the ECU & cluster from the other vehicle even though it was the same year?

Thank you in advance if anyone can offer me other suggestions I’d be glad to hear them.
 

Gabe

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The PATS is in the cluster so if you swapped in a cluster from a different car, it's not gonna recognize the key.
You might be able to have a local auto locksmith do the programming for you, but it sounds like a trip to a dealership is in your future.
 

Gabe

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The "check charging system" is normal work the key in the ON position and engine not running, it's because there's no juice coming from the alternator
 

nataliekaye91

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The PATS is in the cluster so if you swapped in a cluster from a different car, it's not gonna recognize the key.
You might be able to have a local auto locksmith do the programming for you, but it sounds like a trip to a dealership is in your future.

So if I put in the original cluster ( still have it in the parts pile I think), then maybe the issue will resolve on it’s own??
 

Gabe

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So if I put in the original cluster ( still have it in the parts pile I think), then maybe the issue will resolve on it’s own??

I would certainly try it. Maybe not even fully install it, just plug it in and see what happens
 

RocketcarX

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You have to have 2 keys to program the PATS. Like Gabe said swap the old cluster back in and try that to diagnose the issue. I can probably have new keys made for you by your VIN number, but if you'r swapping clusters you will need to have the programming done either way, aloud with the required 2nd key.
 

nataliekaye91

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You have to have 2 keys to program the PATS. Like Gabe said swap the old cluster back in and try that to diagnose the issue. I can probably have new keys made for you by your VIN number, but if you'r swapping clusters you will need to have the programming done either way, aloud with the required 2nd key.
I don’t need to swap the clusters. What happened was the donor car and the original cluster got mixed up while I was installing parts. So I may have put the wrong one in it. I’m going to double check it today.
 

lx92coupe

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The ECU will need to be flashed to the car if it has been swapped


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

nataliekaye91

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Soooo I have an update. Ordered a SCT X4 with a tune to disable PATS, just in case that was an issue. At first the scanner wouldn’t even read the PCM. I spent a bit checking fuses and relays. The pcm relay was faulty. After replacing it, the tuner recognized it and everything worked fine as far as loading the tune on the car.

Check charging system message is gone now, PATS is disabled. Everything lights up on the dash and acts normal but the car will not even crank.

Any ideas??
 

RocketcarX

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Back up and tell us about swapping the original cluster back in and how that went, or how you know the original cluster is the one in the car currently.
What codes are you getting?
Is the starter getting 12v when you hit the key?
 

nataliekaye91

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When I got the car, the dash was all taken out. I put it back together - parts were all there. I thought I had got the donor car cluster mixed up with the original one when I put it in- and that’s what caused the PATS issue. But I did not get them mixed up. Original car has 21k miles on it. And that’s what the cluster says. Donor car had a lot more miles on it than that.

I haven’t ran any codes or tested the starter but will do that tmrw first thing.


The car has been sitting a very long time- a year maybe. (Was wrecked when I bought it).And it appears to not have any , i mean no, fuel in the tank. I’m going to put fuel in it tmrw also. Could that be causing the no start issue? I don’t know if maybe it has some kind of tripped safety switch or low voltage to the pump maybe?
 

RocketcarX

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When I got the car, the dash was all taken out. I put it back together - parts were all there. I thought I had got the donor car cluster mixed up with the original one when I put it in- and that’s what caused the PATS issue. But I did not get them mixed up. Original car has 21k miles on it. And that’s what the cluster says. Donor car had a lot more miles on it than that.

I haven’t ran any codes or tested the starter but will do that tmrw first thing.


The car has been sitting a very long time- a year maybe. (Was wrecked when I bought it).And it appears to not have any , i mean no, fuel in the tank. I’m going to put fuel in it tmrw also. Could that be causing the no start issue? I don’t know if maybe it has some kind of tripped safety switch or low voltage to the pump maybe?
I punt the low fuel condition is causing your no start, but yes I would certainly add fuel.
Swap the clusters for the heck of it, just to see. It's odd that there is a "parts" cluster at all.
 

Gabe

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Would a tripped fuel-pump safety switch make the car not crank?
Maybe check it to see if it's tripped, if it is, reset it and see what happens
 

nataliekaye91

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Basically what I was trying to get at, was that all the original parts to the car are still on it. So now that the PATS issue is clear, why won’t it start? Only think I can think of is maybe the starter or something didn’t get connected correctly when putting everything back together.

the car is practically new - was just involved in a minor fender bender and then was victim of someone attempting to take it apart to part it out ,then I got it.

I guess I need to run the codes on it tmrw will be the next step. I’m so frustrated with it.
 

nataliekaye91

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Would a tripped fuel-pump safety switch make the car not crank?
Maybe check it to see if it's tripped, if it is, reset it and see what happens

How do I do that? I had thought that it had something like that but didn’t know how to go about resetting it
 

RocketcarX

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The fuel inertia switch does not affect cranking.

The 1st thing to do is to check the starter for 12v when you hit the key.
 

nataliekaye91

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UPDATE. Ran the codes on it. DTC code P1622- immobilizer ID does not match.

This means PATS is active I’m guessing.

So now I’m trying to figure out “WHY”PATS is active. Original Cluster- check. Original key- check.

Then I happened to check PCM code. BLV2. Hmmm. Then I notice an extra PCM in the trunk. Noticed it said different code. BLV3.

BLV2 is for a 2013 GT
BLV3 is for a 2014 GT

so I got the parts car PCM mixed up with the original car PCM. Oops. I didn’t realize this would cause a PATS Issue but I’m guessing it does as the cluster has to communicate with the key and the correct PCM or the car won’t start? Am I correct? Can anyone add any comments for me please?
 

RocketcarX

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Swap the PCM and find out
Why are all of these electronics being swapped in the 1st place?
 

nataliekaye91

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Swap the PCM and find out
Why are all of these electronics being swapped in the 1st place?
Because person I got it from had removed all of it so he could part it out but I ended up buying it sight unseen and ending up with a car that had literally been taken apart and I had to piece it back together.
 

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