New to mustangs have a LOT of questions....

cclemmons112

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I’m looking for a 13-14 s197 because I love the style of them. I’ve found what I believe to be is the perfect ride for me but there’s a slight problem...it’s a salvage title. I’ve been told many times “don’t get a salvage title, you’re wasting your time” but am I really? The car is a red california special 5.0 with a boss 302 intake, flow masters, a short shifter, JLT cold air intake, and a few other bits. The place that is selling it sent me pics of the before and after crash pics and he said only damage was front bumper and headlight but what’s suspicious to me is the fact that it’s totaled. I’m not sure if mustang body parts are expensive but that’s why I came here I just need help regarding this. He’s selling it for $16,995 which personally i’m not comfortable spending that on a car that’s been in a somewhat serious crash but you guys may have a different answer for me. I basically just came here to see if what the car is is worth spending that on and if it’s worth risking the salvage title.

Thanks if anyone sees this haha
 

vxr500

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Sounds high for a salvage repair. How many miles? It’d have to be a killer deal for me to go that route. I’d rather spend a few grand more and get one that wasn’t hit hard.
 

MrAwesome987

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Sounds sketch to me as well. I find it hard to believe that a bumper and headlight would total out a 2013/2014 Mustang GT.
 

Macman45

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probably had frame damage so insurance said screw it. Look closely behind the headlight it probably has the frame rail beat on
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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Yeah the car probably had minor frame damage but if it was repaired to a high standard, you would hardly see any trace. At $17k it's way overpriced for a salvage title.
 

tjm73

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Check with your lender if you aren't buying it in a cash deal. Some lenders won't touch salvage cars. If you have the VIN there are free Government and insurance websites to check the title status. May have more details. Also Carfax it if you can. Where are you located? It could be a flood car that got the nose damaged in the flood. Would look totally fine but could be a bundle of electrical issues.

Trust your gut. If it makes you pause and think it might be a bad idea, it's probably a bad idea.

I don;t recall the threshold but if the repair is estimated at like 70% of the value immediately before the crash, it gets totaled. What it is doesn't matter beyond it's pre/post value.

If it's a $20,000 dollar car (random number) and has $14,000 damage, it's totaled. For that car to have been totaled it faced a significantly expensive repair. It could have been a lot of labor or a lot of parts or any sliding combo of the two.
 
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MrAwesome987

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Another thing... Most insurers won't insure a salvage title. They MAY insure a "rebuilt" title. There is a difference, so make sure you look into all of that.
 

RED09GT

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My friend rebuilt a totalled 2014. It was one that went off the road and the front end was tweaked but it wasn't difficult to getit square according to the body shop. He bought a bunch of the body parts used so he was into it for $14,000 for a car with less than 30,000 miles.

It depends on your comfort and experience level. You could always ask to have a body shop inspect it before purchasing as well if you are not comfortable or familiar enough to check to see if the repair was done to make it square again.
If you are not buying it for resale value and just getting a car to enjoy or build, there is the possibilty of being able to get a deal. I don't know your local market but definitely make sure you are paying 15-20% less than an accident free example of the same car.
 

RED09GT

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I don;t recall the threshold but if the repair is estimated at like 70% of the value immediately before the crash, it gets totaled. What it is doesn't matter beyond it's pre/post value.

If it's a $20,000 dollar car (random number) and has $14,000 damage, it's totaled. For that car to have been totaled it faced a significantly expensive repair. It could have been a lot of labor or a lot of parts or any sliding combo of the two.
My dad was an insurance adjuster and typically it is as simple as salvage value+ repair cost vs value of a similar vehicle. So if they can sell it for salvage at 10 grand, and the repair cost is 8 grand, the vehicle would have to have a value of over $18,000 to bother with repairing it.
Insurance companies will take the lowest cost option, it is as simple as that.
 

tjm73

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My dad was an insurance adjuster and typically it is as simple as salvage value+ repair cost vs value of a similar vehicle. So if they can sell it for salvage at 10 grand, and the repair cost is 8 grand, the vehicle would have to have a value of over $18,000 to bother with repairing it.
Insurance companies will take the lowest cost option, it is as simple as that.

I knew it was a pretty simple math problem. I thought it was a percentage of value. That's how it was explained to me. Regardless both ways are just mathematical paths to an end.
 

cclemmons112

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Sounds high for a salvage repair. How many miles? It’d have to be a killer deal for me to go that route. I’d rather spend a few grand more and get one that wasn’t hit hard.
It has 56,000 miles. From the sound of it and yalls opinions it sounds like there’s background damage that he’s hiding. I live pretty far so taking a look at the car isn’t the easiest. If anyone has advice on looking for a 60-80,000 miles s197 5.0 for around $14-19000 i’d love to accept it.
 

Juice

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probably had frame damage so insurance said screw it. Look closely behind the headlight it probably has the frame rail beat on
This not true. An estimate on said vehicle must exceed a certain percent of ACV (actual cash value) before the car can be deemed a total loss. There is no, "screw it, total it". The percentage threshold can vary from state to state, different regulations etc. The threshold is usually 75% of ACV.
So I would say OP, better find out the extent of the damage, or just keep looking, seriously. This is not a good idea.
 

Macman45

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This not true. An estimate on said vehicle must exceed a certain percent of ACV (actual cash value) before the car can be deemed a total loss. There is no, "screw it, total it". The percentage threshold can vary from state to state, different regulations etc. The threshold is usually 75% of ACV.
So I would say OP, better find out the extent of the damage, or just keep looking, seriously. This is not a good idea.

It could be true. Whats blue book on a 14 GT/CS? Ok and what does a hood and headlight cost? we are just saying it has more damage. I merely suggested Frame... could be K member or anything in there
 

Juice

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It could be true. Whats blue book on a 14 GT/CS? Ok and what does a hood and headlight cost? we are just saying it has more damage. I merely suggested Frame... could be K member or anything in there
Clean retail is $15k w/100K miles for a GT hardtop. So that car had repairs exceed $10000
 

cclemmons112

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Does anyone have tips on looking at 13-present mustangs? After finding that dud I’m just having a hard time finding exactly what I want. Every car i come across is either thrashed on or wayyyyy out of my price range.
 

Juice

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Does anyone have tips on looking at 13-present mustangs? After finding that dud I’m just having a hard time finding exactly what I want. Every car i come across is either thrashed on or wayyyyy out of my price range.
Just have to keep looking. I buy used cars, and finding the right one can take months. Be it a mustang, family car, truck, van whatever.
Just dont buy anything you cannot see in person. (Ebay)
 

MrBhp

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Blown airbags can total an otherwise perfect car. Regardless of the extent of damage on that car, or how well repairs were performed, that price is WAY high for a salvage. If you're going to buy a salvage, get it before it's worked on. That's the only way to come out ahead.
 

cclemmons112

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Blown airbags can total an otherwise perfect car. Regardless of the extent of damage on that car, or how well repairs were performed, that price is WAY high for a salvage. If you're going to buy a salvage, get it before it's worked on. That's the only way to come out ahead.
I just spoke to the person with the car and they said the only thing replaced was front bumper and headlight. No airbags went off or any other damage. Leads me to believe there’s other damage somewhere. Could the mods on the car affect the insurance company’s interest in fixing it?
 

MrBhp

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I just spoke to the person with the car and they said the only thing replaced was front bumper and headlight. No airbags went off or any other damage. Leads me to believe there’s other damage somewhere. Could the mods on the car affect the insurance company’s interest in fixing it?
That makes no sense. Get a friend that hates mustangs involved. Lol. Maybe he/she/it/them/they can spot something fishy in person.
 

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