This is how you get a coyote installed for $5000.00 or less

[race4food]

So I keep getting called a liar because others do not seem to understand what hotrodding is or how to use the internet to find parts.
Here are the screen shots of how to do it.

First off a full driveline install:


Next get your own Coyote for $300.00 and rebuild for $800


Now because we all want more power and need bolt ons, here are headers, intake and other power parts for cheap:



So here is a set of rods and pistons that along with your $300.00 long block will prep the motor for 1000hp, add nitrous for $500 and there you go. For your consideration:


Take your Gen 2 F150 add these and run with your gen 1 control pack for your 05-09


So you see all you have to do is look, do the work yourself and pick and choose your parts.
The deals are there you just need to look and be ready to jump.

 

[dark steed]

You just gonna keep making new threads about it, I suppose?


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[race4food]

You just gonna keep making new threads about it, I suppose? ent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No this is a different thread. The first is my build with tech notes to assist with a coyote conversion. This is for those who keep emailing, PM's and adding questions to the original thread who can't seem to understand how to shop from places other than American Muscle.

 

[07gts197]

How about the head porting and control pack and harness? How much more did that set you back?


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[race4food]

I initially was going to just get a valve job on the heads for $250 but then the CNC was $950 and included the valve job, so essentially I got the porting for $700.00 that was a no brainier.
I picked up the EEC, engine harness, transmission harness that included the electric steering for $350 from a salvage yard in MS. The Body harness from PBH was $999.00. I did not intend to port the heads but after selling my 3v it covered the cost of port work and some extras

 

[Juice]

Clearly the secret is to buy the coyote for $250, and sell the 3v you pulled to cover all the costs of the swap. Except if you start with a v6 chassis. But you can get everything dirt cheap from a scrap yard, except the harness that costs 20% of the build. He must be the best accountant in the universe.

 

[hatter]

So you see all you have to do is look, do the work yourself and pick and choose your parts.
The deals are there you just need to look and be ready to jump.

Where are you seeing that intake, rods, and headers?

 

[Juice]

Where are you seeing that intake, rods, and headers?

In his mind.

 

[race4food]

All on FaceBook marketplace, Juice no need to be mean its all there. And even with out selling the 3v, just don't port the heads. And there are lots and lots of motors for under $1000 that just need rings and bearings from people not keeping up with oiling.

 

[Juice]

Motors that need rebuilding are not a bargain, it ALWAYS costs more to rebuild vs using a running used engine.
No comment on FB.
And $250 for a coyote valve job? I paid $450 for a 2valve 351 winsor head rebuild, half the number of valves. Almost ten years ago.
Again, I said posts receipts, and you posted screenshots of ads. Until then, I call BS. You spent way more than 5Gs.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

Just to add, I wouldn't pay 5k for any used motor that has 132k miles on it. Anybody can claim the condition is like new, but once installed, you soon find out the 5k you just forked over is going to end up turning into nothing more than a money pit from having to replace worn out parts, one after another. IMO, it would be far better off to locate a donor car that's been wrecked with far less miles for the same 5k or perhaps even less

 

[Juice]

Just to add, I wouldn't pay 5k for any used motor that has 132k miles on it. Anybody can claim the condition is like new, but once installed, you soon find out the 5k you just forked over is going to end up turning into nothing more than a money pit from having to replace worn out parts, one after another. IMO, it would be far better off to locate a donor car that's been wrecked with far less miles for the same 5k or perhaps even less

How about a realistic price for a Gen1, $3800 w/75k from an automatic car.
That included:all belts, hoses, accessories, exhaust manifolds, engine harness, all parts that I used in the swap.
Ps: stick or auto doner usually not an option, got lucky there. And saved the $150 delivery fee by having it dropped off at the shop across the street from me. One stop shop, ready to install. Time is money. lol

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

How about a realistic price for a Gen1, $3800 w/75k from an automatic car.
That included:all belts, hoses, accessories, exhaust manifolds, engine harness, all parts that I used in the swap.
Ps: stick or auto doner usually not an option, got lucky there. And saved the $150 delivery fee by having it dropped off at the shop across the street from me. One stop shop, ready to install. Time is money. lol

Now that's definitely far more realistic vs the 5k asking price for the Coyote with 132k miles. Plus you know that yours has everything included, especially the engine harness and PCM. As for the auto or MT-82 Getrag 6spd? I can most certainly live without either one and rather stick with the more reliable 3v TR-3650 manual trans, despite the loss of the additional 6th gear with the MT-82 Getrag.

 

[Juice]

Did not include pcm or airbox. New pcm was 400, but you dont need new, they are fully reprogrammable.

 

[eighty6gt]

I can't believe people would "rebuild" a late model v8. There are hundreds for sale that won't need that. I'd say an F150 engine pullout with say 120,000 miles would outlive the car.

 

[Juice]

I can't believe people would "rebuild" a late model v8. There are hundreds for sale that won't need that. I'd say an F150 engine pullout with say 120,000 miles would outlive the car.

Agreed.
I wanted a stock coyote running on stock calibration before I go and start modifying. Less variables and no real tuning required to a point. Add cams, porting,.blower or turbo, after it runs perfect stock.

 

[race4food]

Motors that need rebuilding are not a bargain, it ALWAYS costs more to rebuild vs using a running used engine.
No comment on FB.
And $250 for a coyote valve job? I paid $450 for a 2valve 351 winsor head rebuild, half the number of valves. Almost ten years ago.
Again, I said posts receipts, and you posted screenshots of ads. Until then, I call BS. You spent way more than 5Gs.

Again Call Calhoun porting in Baton Rouge, LA or message on Face Book. No receipt on headers or the intake as who gives a receipt on cash face book buys?
I don't care if you believe me at this point that is your issue.
Now to an engine rebuild. I'm not going to trust someone else's motor that is pulled. I'll do my own rebuild, again, that is your choice.
But if you can't see those prices from FB as what I have listed then you just want to be difficult.

FOR CONTROL PACK PRICING. I paid $140 for the ECU and $150.00 for the engine harness that came with the wiring for the starter, tranny and electric steering.
There again on FB is a yard in Iyuka, MS, and a guy in Denham Springs LA, that list take out coyote parts, so you want to verify the price, ask him. Or again look on Car-part they sell for the same used take out.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Agreed.
I wanted a stock coyote running on stock calibration before I go and start modifying. Less variables and no real tuning required to a point. Add cams, porting,.blower or turbo, after it runs perfect stock.

You'd also perform a compression test on all cylinders to ensure they were all within 10% variance, check there are no abnormal noises, and use a mechanical gauge to verify that the oil pressure is good before adding any mods beyond headers and perhaps a CAI.

 

[Juice]

If you paid someone on FB, you have an email from paypal, venmo, etc. How about the receipt for the headwork? Dont tell me, Calhoun didnt give you one?
And you dont trust a Ford engine assembled by Ford......

 

[Juice]

You'd also perform a compression test on all cylinders to ensure they were all within 10% variance, check there are no abnormal noises, and use a mechanical gauge to verify that the oil pressure is good before adding any mods beyond headers and perhaps a CAI.

Compression test - I turned it by hand and it felt "normal". Swapped plugs, old ones looked fine. Oil was Ok, just changed it. Oil pressure was "tested" after first start, I installed a gauge on the pillar pod (oil press, temp, and WB)
I was going to pull the pan, and bearing caps to inspect... That never happened. lol
Ps: a WB is totally unnecessary on a coyote.