LED lights

Max70

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Hello,

This question might have been asked around already but I tried a couple of searches and found nothing, maybe I did not use the correct keywords.

If there is a similar thread, kindly redirect me to it.

So my issue is, I lately purchased some LEDs for my luggage booth compartment to replace the stock fuse bulb which gets really hot, infact I burnt my fingers twice on it. I got the DORMAN 212WSMD, which on it there was mentioned that they are good for a direct replacement of the fuse bulb, also being designed to compensate for the LOAD, though when I used them, the light kept coming off after 1-2 seconds, at first I tried changing a couple of them since I thought they were defective, but then I realized that they are not compensating enough for the load of the fuse bulb and the computer is cutting out the light.


Is there any good light (mention brand and model please) that I can purchase, to replace the stock fuse bulb? Any suggestion has to been tried and tested, I do not want to buy more LEDs and throw them in the box, I already have enough to open a shop :p

BTW I live in Europe, so it has to be an international shop like Amazon, eBay, etc etc or some shop in Europe that can export.

THANKS.
 

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Max70

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Had the same problem when I installed mine. To compensate for the lack of resistance in the LED get yourself a load resistor. Usually can pick them up in any automotive shop or online. One side connects to the positive, the other negative. You can use butt connectors or solder them in. Your choice. That should do it.

Examples: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=load+resistor&_sacat=0


Thanks for your reply, I will look for load resistors to solder in line, do I have to check the wattage or amps of the stock fuse light before buying this load resistor or any will do?
 

DieHarder

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You can if you want but IMO not needed. Never had an issue since I installed mine (going on a year now). The circuit originates in the BEC, then goes to the low current circuit board. The models shown will all handle the load easily. Besides, that light is only on when you have the trunk open which isn't that much unless you're leaving it open overnight (not likely for most of us). Any of the 50 watt models will do. Get it online as the one's you find at an auto store will probably be two to three times the cost.

Here's the circuit if you want to review it: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Luggage Compartment.pdf
 

DieHarder

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Thanks for your reply, I will look for load resistors to solder in line, do I have to check the wattage or amps of the stock fuse light before buying this load resistor or any will do?

They don't solder in-line (series). They may/should have instructions. They are installed in parallel across the circuit; one end to positive; the other negative. Load resistors are not polarity dependent. You only need one load resistor. Install it near the end of the end of the circuit.

 

Max70

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Thanks for your help I will check and try it. :)
 

Juice

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They don't solder in-line (series). They may/should have instructions. They are installed in parallel across the circuit; one end to positive; the other negative. Load resistors are not polarity dependent. You only need one load resistor. Install it near the end of the end of the circuit.


Load resistors get added in PARALLEL. Not series.
 

totaljustice

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I had nothing but trouble with numerous different types of LED bulbs from eBay and was about to give up when I took the plunge and bought Philips LED'S from the auto parts store. They were expensive but they have been I'm my 2012 for 6 years now with no issues. I also put them in my License Plate lights too and they still work great.
 
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I had nothing but trouble with numerous different types of LED bulbs from eBay and was about to give up when I took the plunge and bought Philips LED'S from the auto parts store. They were expensive but they have been I'm my 2012 for 6 years now with no issues. I also put them in my License Plate lights too and they still work great.

There is no need for load resistors for trunk lights on my 2012 or any others except for the turn signals which need one to stop fast flashing with "switchbacks". When did the Mustang get the full and annoying CANBUS treatment?
 

Pentalab

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You can if you want but IMO not needed. Never had an issue since I installed mine (going on a year now). The circuit originates in the BEC, then goes to the low current circuit board. The models shown will all handle the load easily. Besides, that light is only on when you have the trunk open which isn't that much unless you're leaving it open overnight (not likely for most of us). Any of the 50 watt models will do. Get it online as the one's you find at an auto store will probably be two to three times the cost.

Here's the circuit if you want to review it: https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Luggage Compartment.pdf
On 10+ cars, the map lights, headlights, trunk lights, etc, etc, all go out after 10 mins. That's part of the..'battery saver' software. The only thing that doesn't power down is the pair of 12 vdc outlets.
 

DieHarder

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There is no need for load resistors for trunk lights on my 2012 or any others except for the turn signals which need one to stop fast flashing with "switchbacks". When did the Mustang get the full and annoying CANBUS treatment?

Depends... At least in my case (2006 - same as OP). I had to install a load resistor for the trunk light when I replaced it with an LED which would go out after about a second. After adding the load resistor the trunk light LED lights up normally and stays lit when activated.
 
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Depends... At least in my case (2006 - same as OP). I had to install a load resistor for the trunk light when I replaced it with an LED which would go out after about a second. After adding the load resistor the trunk light LED lights up normally and stays lit when activated.

That is strange as hell. I have replaced every halogen bulb in my 2012 with leds without a single load resistor except the turn signal bulbs to stop fast flashing. That includes headlights, parking lights, fog lights, back-up lights, side markers, license plate, trunk and interior lights. They all work perfectly. Do you need load resistors for all of those too?
 
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DieHarder

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That's great. If they're working normally you have nothing to worry about. Apparently later generation cars have less issues dealing with LEDs compared to earlier generations. This information and recommendations are for those car owners that are experiencing problems. If you have none I say congratulations and move on.
 
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That's great. If they're working normally you have nothing to worry about. Apparently later generation cars have less issues dealing with LEDs compared to earlier generations. This information and recommendations are for those car owners that are experiencing problems. If you have none I say congratulations and move on.

Hopefully those with newer models will not buy load resistors they don't need. They negate the power saving advantages of LEDs and are a added expense and hassle. It would be easy to assume that newer models are more complex and fussy in their electronics not less as is the case here.
 

LikeabossTM

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Hopefully those with newer models will not buy load resistors they don't need. They negate the power saving advantages of LEDs and are a added expense and hassle. It would be easy to assume that newer models are more complex and fussy in their electronics not less as is the case here.
I have to ask, what advantage are you gaining by saving power in this 12V system? Are you using that power elsewhere or down sizing the generator to a lower cost model? Or leaving the LOEO longer without draining the battery?
 

DieHarder

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Cannot speak for all but in my case the trunk light kept burning out and LEDs are typically brighter so I had a few LED laying around (left over from another project) that I thought why not try it. After splicing it into the circuit it would go out immediately when activated so I added a load resistor. Works fine now. I did not add it thinking I would save any power or it would provide any advantage over OEM; other than brighter lighting and hopefully longevity. Been working fine for over a year now.
 
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I have to ask, what advantage are you gaining by saving power in this 12V system? Are you using that power elsewhere or down sizing the generator to a lower cost model? Or leaving the LOEO longer without draining the battery?

There are a lot of people that put in high wattage amps but for me it is just the idea that the efficiency of LEDs takes strain off of the battery and wiring and generate far less heat that degrades the plastic sockets and lenses. There is a reason that load resistors have cooling fins, they get hot like halogen bulbs do. But I would use them in a minute if it was needed for my LED's. The light they produce looks so much better and more modern than halogens.
 
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Max70

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I solved the problem without a load resistor. I tried another brand of CANBUS capped LEDs and they worked perfectly.
 

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