spark plug socket issues 2006 Mustang GT

Juice

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I used impact guns to disassemble and reassemble stuff that are clearly in the "Do not use impact gun" territory. It is not the impact gun that does the damage, it is the user. Short bursts is all you need to losen the stubborn fastener. If you are going to sit there and hold the trigger until something gives, well, that is not the use of the impact now is it? Using the hammering effect also helps with NOT rounding off bolts and nuts. And finally, noone mentioned the size of the impact gun. For plugs, I would reach for my 3/8" butterfly impact. Not the 1/2" gun I use for lugs, suspension bolts, the big stuff.
 
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One shop I went to complained that they couldn't get them out of my 2005 Mustang. I heard they changed the way the plugs were in the 2006-2010 Stang because of the problem. I used to get a ticking noise with my old set-up but now with the Supercharger with cold plugs I hear no tick. Don't mean to steal your thread but do you think the noise it made had something to do with those hot sparkplugs down in the engine?
 

msvela448

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One shop I went to complained that they couldn't get them out of my 2005 Mustang. I heard they changed the way the plugs were in the 2006-2010 Stang because of the problem. I used to get a ticking noise with my old set-up but now with the Supercharger with cold plugs I hear no tick. Don't mean to steal your thread but do you think the noise it made had something to do with those hot sparkplugs down in the engine?
2008 was when the plugs were revised.

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MrBhp

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Use your hands with a ratchet, extension and socket only..

Exactly how you break a two piece plug.

I've R&R'd well over a hundred sets of these fragile things. With all the care in the world I would still break a few, more than occasionally. And then I saw an old timer mechanic, one of those we call a "shade tree" mechanic, change plugs on a 3v using a small impact. Since I switched to that method I haven't broken one.
 

07gts197

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Since everyone is throwing their two cents in I might as well too.

I changed the plugs on my 07 in 2015 with almost 100k miles on it. I didn’t use any penetrating oil, warm the engine or an impact. I used a 30” breaker bar that’s it and only 1 broke. I’m sure no matter what I did it still would’ve broken anyway. I had a guy ship me the Lisle tool on another forum from the east coast to have on standby and I was glad I did.

Just as important though is correctly torquing the new ones. Originally I used the “goodntight” method. It ran kind of funny but didn’t tick around the plugs but I got a torque wrench anyway and tightened them down to spec. All good ever since.


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EGAZ

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I have been out of town for the holiday weekend and am now on my three day RN travel gig in Kingman, AZ so I haven't replied recently. I have to say thank you to everyone who answered my questions and provided some insight and solutions to this problem.

I have cleaned out the plug wells with Gumout, and a small coarse brush. All clean and shiny. Now to warm up the engine, remove the coil packs, spray PB Blaster and let is sit for a few hours to allow the penetrating oil to do it's thing. Then time to replace the coil packs and rewarm the engine. Then I will work with a lighter, 3/8 inch impact driver. I concur with the comments regarding the effect of the impact is to shake loose the fastener by using short bursts. I have used similar techniques over the years in working on a number of different machinery.

I have some anti seize compound however one of the videos mentioned nickel anti seize. Is the nickel anti seize needed or does normal anti seize do the trick? Dialectric grease on the plugs then install them.

This is my project for Tuesday afternoon when I return home from my 3 day 7p - 7a shifts. Let the PB Blaster do it's thing overnight.

Thanks again for all of the ideas, suggestions, and support.

I will take a few pics or shoot some video of the project.
 

DieHarder

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Nickel anti-seize; Do not use dielectric grease. (That's for electrical connections). Also, would recommend using carb cleaner; loosen plugs at least a 1/4 turn and spray into the plug wells. You want something that will break up/eat the carbon.
 

skwerl

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The plug issue was resolved in 2008. Unless the plugs in his car are 13 years old, then he's not going to break the plug in the head. Move on already, people. The 'plugs breaking in half' issue is over. There might be 5 cars still on the road today with bad plugs in them. Give it up already.
 

msvela448

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The plug issue was resolved in 2008. Unless the plugs in his car are 13 years old, then he's not going to break the plug in the head. Move on already, people. The 'plugs breaking in half' issue is over. There might be 5 cars still on the road today with bad plugs in them. Give it up already.
Ummm... I don't agree. The heads were re-designed in 2008... But all 2005, 2006, 2007, and some early 2008, 3v 4.6L Mustangs would still have the old heads, with the old design, and if the owners never replaced the plugs with a one-piece design (like Brisk Racing, or AutoLites) then there is a good chance of there being the old 2-piece plugs in there. Especially if the owner adhered to the recommended 100,000 mile change interval.

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Jack F

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Ummm... I don't agree. The heads were re-designed in 2008... But all 2005, 2006, 2007, and some early 2008, 3v 4.6L Mustangs would still have the old heads, with the old design, and if the owners never replaced the plugs with a one-piece design (like Brisk Racing, or AutoLites) then there is a good chance of there being the old 2-piece plugs in there.

I have to agree. Especially when you consider the 5.4 3V. Fleet operations weren't going to buy some off-brand crap. It was Motorcraft or equivalent.
 

EGAZ

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UPDATE: I forgot that my son is a Ford dealership service advisor. He will ask one of his techs the best method for me to remove my plugs.
 

Jack F

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UPDATE: I forgot that my son is a Ford dealership service advisor. He will ask one of his techs the best method for me to remove my plugs.

Glad to hear you're bringing in the brain trust.
 

Forty61

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The plug issue was resolved in 2008. Unless the plugs in his car are 13 years old, then he's not going to break the plug in the head. Move on already, people. The 'plugs breaking in half' issue is over. There might be 5 cars still on the road today with bad plugs in them. Give it up already.

My ‘08 has the old design heads on it and I need to do my plugs. I am unsure when they were last done, probably never. So make that 6 cars on the road with bad ones!
 

DieHarder

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My ‘08 has the old design heads on it and I need to do my plugs. I am unsure when they were last done, probably never. So make that 6 cars on the road with bad ones!

No matter which method you use recommend you have the Lisle tool on hand in case you break a few like I did. I consider myself lucky. Had 120K on her with original plugs so glad only 3 broke. And I followed the TSB; but looking back wish I had of known about using an impact on the plugs that were stubborn. On a later change I did have to use an impact to get a one-piece plug out that wouldn't move with a breaker bar; it really was frozen. Eventually came out with an impact though I did have to give it a good two-to-three bursts to get it to move and finally loosen enough to get it out. Lesson learned - Use one piece plugs and religiously remove, inspect, check/replace them (as needed) every year and use a touch of anti-sieze on the threads as well as the barrels. The hassle (changing them) is totally worth the effort vice dealing with stuck/frozen/broken plugs. Yes, some of us have older cars with original heads and black boots. If you do... do yourself a favor and do the maintenance. You don't want to deal with broken plugs. Nobody does.
 

Forty61

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No matter which method you use recommend you have the Lisle tool on hand in case you break a few like I did. I consider myself lucky. Had 120K on her with original plugs so glad only 3 broke. And I followed the TSB; but looking back wish I had of known about using an impact on the plugs that were stubborn. On a later change I did have to use an impact to get a one-piece plug out that wouldn't move with a breaker bar; it really was frozen. Eventually came out with an impact though I did have to give it a good two-to-three bursts to get it to move and finally loosen enough to get it out. Lesson learned - Use one piece plugs and religiously remove, inspect, check/replace them (as needed) every year and use a touch of anti-sieze on the threads as well as the barrels. The hassle (changing them) is totally worth the effort vice dealing with stuck/frozen/broken plugs. Yes, some of us have older cars with original heads and black boots. If you do... do yourself a favor and do the maintenance. You don't want to deal with broken plugs. Nobody does.

I have thought about preordering that tool in case something happens but since I only drive the car once every week or two it’s not gonna be a hassle if I end up having to wait on it. I’m pretty confident the plugs are original, car only has 70k on it. I’ve got a lot of notes on what to soak them with, how to break them loose, what anti-seize to use etc. but I just keep putting it off lol. I’m sure it will go fine!
 

dark steed

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There used to be someone on here that sent his around to those doing plugs. As I recall, he charged a deposit to cover the tool and shipping then refunded all but shipping and a small fee when it was returned or sent to the next guy…
I have the tool, but travel too much to do this kind of thing. Really don’t want the hassle either lol

Edit: I believe you can rent them from the major auto parts shops.


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gbstang

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I have never busted a plug on my 2004 Marauder, 2008 Shelby Gt or my 2011 GT500. I don't use an impact--period. If you work around aluminum parts long enough you learn how to remove them. I have known plenty of people who have broken many studs or plugs etc. using an impact. I am not saying it can't be done (impact) but it IS NOT the correct way.

The proper way to remove any "stuck" hardware is to loosen maybe a 1/16 then retighten, loosen again a little farther until it finally breaks free. The real problem when you use a torque device to remove anything you over torque the item and remove metal from the weaker part, eventually galling the threads.

I guess its a good thing you don't replace plugs more than what maybe 4 times in the life of the engine? Try working on parts that live in a salty environment you will get what I am talking about..
 

Laga

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There used to be someone on here that sent his around to those doing plugs. As I recall, he charged a deposit to cover the tool and shipping then refunded all but shipping and a small fee when it was returned or sent to the next guy…
I have the tool, but travel too much to do this kind of thing. Really don’t want the hassle either lol

Edit: I believe you can rent them from the major auto parts shops.


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I have an AutoZone across the street from me. You can rent the removal tool there for free. I had rented one when I removed the original plugs in my 05 ( no impact). While it’s very convenient to have one so close, they never seem to have what I need when I go there.
In fact, just yesterday I had to go to AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, O’reillys, and finally HD to find a hose clamp for a 1/2” hose.
 

Smithy

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Grinding the end of the socket flat is what I was thinking as well.
 

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