Recent content by 0M3GA

Years ago I bought a 2011 Elantra with 48k miles, started using the Super Tech oil and filters after 60k. Unfortunately I totalled the car at exactly 298k miles, and as a curiosity I tore down the engine.. the inside looked new no varnish, rod Bearings little to no wear, not saying it's good...

A few weeks ago I discovered this.. When I replaced the transmission months ago I didn't bother replacing any timing components since they were good, as they say "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" boy.. I should of replaced them considering the mileage.. Well yesterday one of my friends who...

That's one CLEAN mustang, details on those rims?

I have actually done the opposite , my base 2010 mustang came with a super cheap foam steering wheel that would fall apart just by looking at it, I took a trip to my local Pick N Pull and found a nice steering wheel off an 08 mustang, was in excellent condition, so I bought it. I installed it...

I checked all my plugs and all were cleaned with CRC Electronic Cleaner to no avail the codes would come back after a short drive OR after a restart. I checked everything, plugs fuses and nothing stood out, as a last resort I added a few hair ties(yeah hair ties) around the fuel door rubber so...

I'm aware of Fuse 47, unfortunately the fuse was never an issue, I check it just to make sure and its fine just like ALL the fuses within the car. There are NO pinched wires anywhere since the engine and transmission were removed as one, and installed as one. The wiring harness was installed after.

Late reply but the codes went away for 2 full months... what did I do? Mmm who knows.. The ONLY thing I did was replaced the alternator with one that my friend had laying around, looked new compared to the old crusty thing mine had.. I was also mad so I started to shake the battery wiring...

Well after weeks of trying to figure this out, I finally found the culprit.. the lower control arms that were installed fit BUT aren't the correct ones, they were made for 05 thru 10 EARLY models, my mustang came with a slightly upgraded lower control arms and with a different lower ball joint...

After replacing the bad transmission with a reman from Pick n Pull (got lucky) I went ahead and ordered new lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links and lower ball joints to address an old "clunk" I would hear when I would go over bumbs, especially if it made the car shake...

Was this ever solved? I literally have the same or similar codes on my 2010 mustang, the codes are: P0135 P0141 P0155 P0161 P0403 P0443 Then they repeat for some reason.. P0135 P0141 P0155 P0161 P0403 P0443 For a total of 12 codes, what makes it even more difficult is this.. The transmission...

TBH don't even bother with Superchargers or Turbos, the 4.0L are super reliable but can't handle that much power, I've heard the 4.0L can only handle 300-350 HP SAFELY ~400-450HP is the MAX but you're risking it, unfortunately is not the 3.7L which can easily handle 500+

Apologies for a late reply, regarding the transmission... the winning noise got worse and some days I would loose power after I started driving (would usually loose 2nd gear) and the car would only move about an inch, the only way to get the car moving again was to force 1,2 or 3 manually and...

Hey guys new here, my friend recommended this site and well here I am.. I have a 2010 mustang that I haven't driven in almost 6 years.... About the car, I bought the car in late 2011 with 54k miles(YES my dream car) shortly after the car started to develop transmission problems. It started with...