2012 Moostang 97 STP

SCCA created a new class for pony cars this year and made a place and home class for lightly modified pony cars. So let's get to the mod list.

It's a base model 2012 mustang GT. About 50k miles at today's date.
Current car:
Whiteline front/rear sway bars
Whiteline watts link
Whiteline lower control arms
Vorslag CC plates
Bilstein dampers on steeds sport springs
BMR adjustable upper control arm
BMR lowering brackets
Homemade axle oil catch can
Blowfish bracket (not sure if it's ST legal) but I'll change it if needed, but no once will protest locally.
Off road x pipe with gt500 mufflers (illegal as well)

Steeda cold air intake
Steeda tune 93 (asked for track tune)
Steeda rear strut bar
Ford racing front strut bar
Amsoil fluids
Carbotech AX6 pads on front
Rear gt500 disc and regular duralast pads

18x11 forgestar F14s race gold on 295 BFG rivals 1st gen
19x9.5 tsw wheels on dying 275 RE71Rs
Daily on Brembo wheels on 275 MPSS

Parts waiting to get installed:
X pipe with cats (moew)
Moton club sport 2 ways remote reservoirs
Need to get the rears rebuild and I'll be having maxcyspeed in Dallas rebuild them for me.
SS steels lines
Motul 600

Parts in transit:
Sparco Evo II us in red and all necessary brackets and bolts.
And I have a whole list of stuff that I'm putting in order from Vorslag like later on today.


Ok so a little history about myself and driving.
I recently (past 9 months) have become an addict of auto racing. I chose to start with autocrossing because it's cheap and not too hard on my car. My mustang is daily driven and raced as well. I plan to mainly stick with autocrossing with some tracking in the later future once I retire the car from daily duties.
So it being always outside id like to start my build thread about a recent endeavor recently attacked. I had ordered a porter cable 7474XP. It's usually recommended for somebodys first detailing. Ordered everything through chemical guys, I wanted to try some of their product. Used their VSS to work out most of the Swirls and scratches.
after correction

but I did tried it on my navigator to practice before I burnt up my paint lmao.
Moving foward, I order some a hard coating from a company called polish angel. And it was just so easy to work out some whatever the VSS from chemical guys couldn't get.


Total it was about 22 hours of work. But now it should basically be scratch resistant. Check it out! This stuff is just amazing. And water just beads right off! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPFK2KoUiUE


Ok now to the racing part of this V8 LIVE axle!

After I make her look fabulous I took her to a spokes event outside of COTA at parking lot H.

Parked next to a well known 1LE Camero

The night before I hadn't slept at all, and I had planned to do doubles runs. I got there super early from San Antonio, taking SH 130 is such a pleasure and try to use it whenever I can. So you can say I got there super fast.

I ran this event on the old RE71Rs, as they are still performing well. I was running first and 3rd heats so as soon as the drivers meeting was over it was straight to racing. The parking lot is pretty nice. Good grip, no poles, and it looked like there has been figure eight drifting events setup or some kind of gymkhana and also has some elevation changes.

The course had a cross section and the ending was two back to back sweepers, 1st sweeper was downhill and the 2nd was uphill. I felt like if there was time to be found that was it.
1st heat I ran a 39.2 but hit a cone. It was the last set I could have hit. Lmao so I counted the raw time.
https://youtu.be/arAvUYFkDeI
3rd heat after a long work assignment of 2nd heat, lots of timing issues plus 170ish participants made it a long day. By the 3rd heat I was beat, but I had to gather whatever energy I had left and muster up 5 more runs. I ended up running a slower time. but I was averaging around 40.xx
I'm pretty much almost done, I plan on buying a set of 315s rival s tyres once these stones start cording.

Opinions of tyre choice between the stones and the 1st gen rivals.

I felt like the difference is more on the width of the tyre and different size wheels. They run similar times, at least that's what I saw with one event where I switched wheels between heats. Of course they run at different temperatures and also depends on what your feeling when running. The rival felt more oversteer when pushed versus I felt more understeer when I pushed the stones. Although I have to mention a huge flaw in my study and its the fact that ran doubles that event last year. So the rival time was the later heat I ran so practice effects of the course confound my results. It should go without saying that this is all subjective so bias is assumed. I stopped running the f14 because the strut was rubbing on the wheel at full lock and because I have two sets of wheels with perfectly good working tyres to be worn down. Plus I've been thinking of selling the 1st gen 295 rivals and buy some 315s to really square up against some of the STU boost buggies in my local clubs. They are usually flying though the courses.

Check out the same course I posted at COTA
https://youtu.be/w-8IrYHS_u0

Im also thinking about picking two sparco harnesses and a harness bar for 450, im not sure if thats a good deal or not. But it would be cool to have harnesses and help me stay in place in my new seat.


Id also like to note how important choosing the right tyre is, whether its racing or just driving around town. Going from the stock all season to MPSS and the pair of 200tw tyres I have was just an amazing equalizer when it comes to autox. Plus driving through rain in the MPSS makes it super easy, such a great tyre to drive on everyday.

Cool thread and good info so far. I think I know what harness/bar setup you're talking about and I'd avoid that honestly. The guy didn't know who made the bar, and the harnesses expire at the end of this year (I already tried to buy it )

I love those gold F14s with the Rival on them. I wish BFG kept making them, they are perfect for me

Kona,

Pretty stoked I found the forums and your thread.

I recently moved from a built Subaru to a '12 GT Prem. I've been talking back and forth the past few days with the guys at Vorshlag - a lot of good conversation and feedback form those guys. I'm guessing you bought the Bilsteins through them? I'm tore between the strut/spring combo and coilovers. What made you take the route you did? Your setup is right along the lines of where I'd like to take my car.

PS Car looks awesome on those gold F14s!

Vorslag is a good company and it loaded with tons of Infomation. I had actually brought the bilstiens used with 1500 miles on them. They were half price but that was because the top of the stud was cut. They happen just to be a little long for my plates. The guy had said he cut them to make them fit with his plates. Nonetheless they work just as fine and are great dampers, just abit harsh at some places around town.

As far as the reason I went down the coilovers way, I brought them because it was a good deal and I know I will want them. I'm still trying to get 11/10 out of my car so I may just wait to install them. I like the way I have the car setup at the moment. Even with a soft front spring.

The reason why I choose the conventional spring is because of cost and I being relatively new to this sport there was still time to be gained.

Speedboosted said:

Cool thread and good info so far. I think I know what harness/bar setup you're talking about and I'd avoid that honestly. The guy didn't know who made the bar, and the harnesses expire at the end of this year (I already tried to buy it ��)

I love those gold F14s with the Rival on them. I wish BFG kept making them, they are perfect for me

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Thanks, that makes me feel better about not wanting to buy them. Lmao I've spent too much this past couple of weeks haha

Are those Kent's Motons? Good choice using Stuart...he's a valving wizard.

Cool build

csamsh said:

Are those Kent's Motons? Good choice using Stuart...he's a valving wizard.

Cool build

Click to expand...

Hey thanks!

They are Kents, even rode in his ESP s197 when he had it. It was like glue compared to my current setup. And he referred Stuart to get the rears rebuild, it seemed that one of them probably had lost the nitrogen.

Nice MooseTank! Thanks for making a build thread; I always enjoy reading through them. Especially when it includes a DIB car with gold wheels.

That reminds me I need to reply about the 295s. Are you keeping the F14s too? I might be in the market for 18x11s.

2Fass240us said:

Nice MooseTank! Thanks for making a build thread; I always enjoy reading through them. Especially when it includes a DIB car with gold wheels.

That reminds me I need to reply about the 295s. Are you keeping the F14s too? I might be in the market for 18x11s.

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No I need them for STP, but yeah I'm looking to buy some 315s and sell the 1st Gen 295s.


Plus it's not a DIB the color is kona blue, hence my name.

kona302 said:

No I need them for STP, but yeah I'm looking to buy some 315s and sell the 1st Gen 295s.

Plus it's not a DIB the color is kona blue, hence my name.

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Yeah, I was kidding on the F14s...I can get them relatively cheap.

Clearly I need to look into the difference between Kona Blue and DIB. RE:SN...total derp on my part.

2Fass240us said:

Yeah, I was kidding on the F14s...I can get them relatively cheap.

Clearly I need to look into the difference between Kona Blue and DIB. RE:SN...total derp on my part.

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lmao I thought so, (f14s)
and yeah they look very similar. 13-current car I think is DIB. 11-12 were the only cars that had that color option. I just have to say after some rain and such the cars paint still looks fantastic even when dirty.

Sparco evo ii us

Ordered through amazon, with seat base, side mounts and sliders. One thing about the sliders, after some further internets research apparently the sliders were not designed for side mounted seats.

You can see the bar is not the correct length when compared to the size of the seat base.

So it looks like I will either cut it and weld in a inch or so. Or bend it and force it in. (thats what she said) hehe...

And of course the seat had to be red.



I'll probably install today and see what other problems I will run into. But for further information I leave you with some insight from Terry Fair.

You are supposed to bend it (the bar to adjust the sliders). It is universal for different width seats. Just did it on the wife's M3. I despise sliders but have to have them in her car so I can drive it. Tried to use them in my '14 so she could try to learn to drive it but the seat was way too high for me. I do like to sit very low though.

The Sparco sliders I have in her car are the best I've used though. Minimal slop.

Mark Aubele said:

You are supposed to bend it (the bar to adjust the sliders). It is universal for different width seats. Just did it on the wife's M3. I despise sliders but have to have them in her car so I can drive it. Tried to use them in my '14 so she could try to learn to drive it but the seat was way too high for me. I do like to sit very low though.

The Sparco sliders I have in her car are the best I've used though. Minimal slop.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I did exactly as you said. Worked out well.

I had those Vorshlag-made bases in my car. You could grab the seat headrest and rock it back and forth and the whole car would move. They're quite a bit more substantial than any of the "off the shelf" ones I've had my hands on.

UPDATE: Finished Seat Install and Spokes Event #3


So the sparco EVO II seat install was a bit frustrating however I got the sparco stuff work with the sliders. After bending the bar for the slider I got it to fit and properly work. Another problem I ran into was the seat belt connecting point. I could not fit the bolt in the seat base hole because the seat did not allow enough room for the nut. What I ended up doing is making the hole longer on the side mount so that way I could give it another cm. I should clarify that it was the bottom hole I altered so the seat could move to the side abit.

Nonetheless, after getting it lined up somehow and tightening the bolts into the seat. I had made a great guess at the seating position. which I found satisfactory.

I still need to add the resistor to take of the dash light, however the light isn't too big of a deal and doesn't alter anything else of the car.



As far as comfort level and feel, an upgraded seat is an amazing addition to any build. It gives much more feel and confidence in the car. I can really feel the limitations of the car a lot better. Looking back this should have been one of the first thing to do.

Also did the catted X pipe install and took out the off road x pipe to make myself ST legal.

All this a day before my next event at San antonio Raceway almost near seguin and Highway toll road 130. The event was organized by Texas spokes car club. It was a very nice day that stay cool all day long.



Although that made my first run in the first heat very tricky. It was a combination of understeer, oversteer and constant steering inputs. I never really even felt my tires warmed up, so I had to add some pressure. I ran on 19x9.5 tsw wheels on RE71Rs, with 130 plus runs. I figure starting at 30 PSI square they would heat up faster..... they did not. I ran the best time of 44.6 where the X class/fast fast peeps and cars where in the 42s... tyres were not heating up! which is bad for my open class but I was running doubles so I can another chance to see a heated plus a clean course.

Side bar: I like to mention that the parking lot at SAR is a very dusty and bumpy parking lot. So first heat usually has the duty of cleaning the course off. Coupled by cold pavement makes for some fun times.

Heat 3 on my double runs for double the fun, I managed a 44.3 on my 1st run which was a big sign that the course was up to temperature. I end up running a 43.6

I had this feeling if I would have had the heat on my side that I could have ran a better time in the 1st heat. I looked much more smooth than my double run.



So Idk why it double the embedded video. ANY ADVICE? Also advice and criticism on my driving is welcomed.

This gives you an idea of how bad it was, given the S2000 has a new set of RE71rs on the front and some dead RE71rs on the rear nonetheless it was the first heat.

Update: March-august

Been awhile since I posted, kinda got lazy about posting since I wasn't getting much love here. Lets see where do I start. 5 or 6 events have passed since the last time I posted so ill start with the PRO SOLO in june.

Mineral wells pro solo

This was my first time at a Pro Solo and an SCCA event. The surface was interesting to say the least, very coarse and tire shredding. Nonetheless if you've never done a pro solo it goes something like this. There are two courses that are mirrored of each other. Two cars line up and the start, is a drag start with a tree of course AWD has a huge advantage but that's neither here nor there.

After you run you one side you go directly to the other, until you've done two on each side. two sessions on saturday and 1 last session on sunday. Which really disturbs your acquisition of the courses. I had a hard time with the whole event and after the 1st day we had to stop early because of the surface coming apart on both sides of the course. This was also my first time on the #masterrace 315 rival S BFG tyres. So winning my BUMP class (which STP Was put into smh) wasn't on my list of hopes and dreams.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_beluAf3uoA


This event was hosted by the MAXCY team, and I have to mention Terry cooks come mean fajitas and that's coming from a South texan I cant forget SM ERIC and his margarita machine getting everyone plastered at the beer garden. Those who went know what I mean, some know a little too much. Overall I had a great time, this last year of autoxing has been the best year yet. =)))))

Ok fast forward to the end of June. SASCA and SPOKES did a replication of a divisional scca event since there was an issue with San Antonio Raceway and the original schedule. Nonetheless it have me a chance to drive back to back saturday and sunday on two different surfaces. One being smooth and clean the other being bumpy and dirty. Still learning what the car is able of however I think this is when my diff clutches started to show their wear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1JppN6egGc

So for the first time couple weeks back I attend my rain-est autox yet at SAR (san antonio raceway) however I didn't want the hassle of unloading and loading and putting on the 315s so I raced on my dailies which are MPSS. This event, whether is was the tyres or the diff I was about two seconds off pace of another S197 gt that is STP prepped. Chalk it up to the tyres or skill or whatever but at the end of the event I drove his car (has a OEM torsen) drove so smooth and throttle control all over was easier to manage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3LIyK6tWhg

Since I had been sitting on a OEM torsen, neglecting the install because I was intimidated by not doing it correctly I bit the bullet and got to work. Setting the backlash wasn't as hard since I keep the 331 gearing. measured the Oem shims, torqued everything down correctly, when I went to check the teeth pattern with the paint and it just cleaned the whole tooth both sides. That worried me a bit but since the install I have had no gear whine so it must be just right. While I was down there I re-lube all parts and put everything back together. I also put my LCAs on the lowest hole. The next event was at COTA parking lot H, which is almost all smooth and very grippy. The difference was very noticeable, I could get on throttle very early, however I feel as if I still left time on the table and Kent put and idea about higher spring rates Which I am considering greatly. My next event isn't for another month because of SCCA nationals in Lincoln.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSphLrg8Nek

I'll show you some love. Keep the updates coming. I'm about a year behind you on the autoX learning tree, and I'm dying to be competitive.