Here is the thread I wrote about on M6G with my failure:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46897
Purchased the car in Mar 2015, installed the MAP CAI, off road DP, NGK 6510 spark plugs, FMIC, TS BOV, charge pipes, cat back exhaust and a basic Cobb tune from Adam; was happy with that for a while but noticed I would smoke like crazy when coming to a stop/idle which was very embarrassing; I purchased a UPR dual valve CC to resolve that issue but that did not fix it, read online of a lot of people having the same issue and gutting the PVC would cure the issue so I did it. It stopped the smoking issues so I was happy and thought all was well. Along the way I installed the TS IWG and switched to Lund tuning, sent logs back and forth and all was well.
In sending the logs back and forth with Lund he noticed knocking so he pulled timing; made some pulls and something was going on as he had to pull more timing. He had me install new plugs and asked what gas I ran which I only use Costco 91 octane-living in San Diego this was the highest octane fuel I can buy-so I started looking for issues. One morning I noticed a pool of oil on the drivers side garage floor so I pulled the belly pan off and the IC piping off and I had a lot of oil there; pulled the pipe off the TB and I had oil pooling in the TB. I spoke with UPR to see if they had any CC’s fail and was told no and to check the check valves which I did and they were working. This was around Dec and I purchased BMR f/r sway bars/end links and the cradle lockout kit, installed it and took the car out for a test drive. 5, 10, 15 lbs of boost all good, hit 20 lbs and I heard rattling; stopped the car and assumed I had left a tool somewhere or did not tighten something, checked everywhere and did not see anything so I started the car back up, no issues/cel’s and another test drive…same thing, 5, 10, 15 lbs and no issues….hit 20 and rattling…..turned around to take it home, went up a slight hill and boom. Huge cloud of smoke, rattling and 5 secs later low oil light came on. I was 1/4 mile from home so I drove it into the garage, popped the hood and was pretty sure I blew the engine. Got it up on stands and saw chunks of metal near the passenger side motor mount, pulled plugs and feared the worst. Towed it to a friends shop and confirmed I blew the engine.
At this point I was having to pack and move in a month so I was low on options; I wanted to go forged bottom end and spoke to MMR, Livernois, MAP and Tasca to get all options; I needed a block and at that point there were not a lot if any and I was 99% sure based on my spark plugs I would need a head as well and there were 0 available so I decided to get a stock long block from Ford; it was $2700 for the long block/crate engine from Ford with a $1000 core charge that my friend was able to defer since he had a commercial account with a local Ford and I received the engine. Luckily my friend let me use his shop and I did all the work, pulled the engine and placed the new one next to it and I transferred all the stock parts/turbo from the blown engine to the new one. The new engine had been in storage since 2014 so it did not have the latest PCV system and my friend told me to get a new intake since I had oil/metal parts flying around which I did. So all told with fluids and parts it was a $3k swap with me doing all the work.
I left all the aftermarket parts on, had Lund send me a tune and I drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix with no issues. When I had the turbo off we gave it a good looking over and there wasn’t any oil so the seals should be good.
I am 99% convinced that the gutting of the PVC led to my issues as the CC could not keep up with the additional oil being sent through the system and I know I had oil in the combustion chamber which reduced the octane level so something unacceptable under boost…and in no way is this Lund or UPR’s fault, both companies have been outstanding with troubleshooting my issue, helping me in any way they can and providing excellent support.
So there you have it, pics are there, I have been told that unofficially Ford knows they have an oiling issue with the EB engine family, hence the PCV redesign and the TSB for smoking engines that are stock…and breaking ring lands….if I had more time I would have taken it to Ford for warranty, they probably would have said no since I was tuned but my rebuttal would have been how does a tune affect oil in the combustion chamber? I am not an idiot nor is this my first rodeo so it would have been a fight that who know how it would have turned out….I have thought about calling Ford and speaking to someone about this, they have my old engine as I had to turn it in it’s not as though they can’t tear it apart and see for themselves….
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http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46897
Purchased the car in Mar 2015, installed the MAP CAI, off road DP, NGK 6510 spark plugs, FMIC, TS BOV, charge pipes, cat back exhaust and a basic Cobb tune from Adam; was happy with that for a while but noticed I would smoke like crazy when coming to a stop/idle which was very embarrassing; I purchased a UPR dual valve CC to resolve that issue but that did not fix it, read online of a lot of people having the same issue and gutting the PVC would cure the issue so I did it. It stopped the smoking issues so I was happy and thought all was well. Along the way I installed the TS IWG and switched to Lund tuning, sent logs back and forth and all was well.
In sending the logs back and forth with Lund he noticed knocking so he pulled timing; made some pulls and something was going on as he had to pull more timing. He had me install new plugs and asked what gas I ran which I only use Costco 91 octane-living in San Diego this was the highest octane fuel I can buy-so I started looking for issues. One morning I noticed a pool of oil on the drivers side garage floor so I pulled the belly pan off and the IC piping off and I had a lot of oil there; pulled the pipe off the TB and I had oil pooling in the TB. I spoke with UPR to see if they had any CC’s fail and was told no and to check the check valves which I did and they were working. This was around Dec and I purchased BMR f/r sway bars/end links and the cradle lockout kit, installed it and took the car out for a test drive. 5, 10, 15 lbs of boost all good, hit 20 lbs and I heard rattling; stopped the car and assumed I had left a tool somewhere or did not tighten something, checked everywhere and did not see anything so I started the car back up, no issues/cel’s and another test drive…same thing, 5, 10, 15 lbs and no issues….hit 20 and rattling…..turned around to take it home, went up a slight hill and boom. Huge cloud of smoke, rattling and 5 secs later low oil light came on. I was 1/4 mile from home so I drove it into the garage, popped the hood and was pretty sure I blew the engine. Got it up on stands and saw chunks of metal near the passenger side motor mount, pulled plugs and feared the worst. Towed it to a friends shop and confirmed I blew the engine.
At this point I was having to pack and move in a month so I was low on options; I wanted to go forged bottom end and spoke to MMR, Livernois, MAP and Tasca to get all options; I needed a block and at that point there were not a lot if any and I was 99% sure based on my spark plugs I would need a head as well and there were 0 available so I decided to get a stock long block from Ford; it was $2700 for the long block/crate engine from Ford with a $1000 core charge that my friend was able to defer since he had a commercial account with a local Ford and I received the engine. Luckily my friend let me use his shop and I did all the work, pulled the engine and placed the new one next to it and I transferred all the stock parts/turbo from the blown engine to the new one. The new engine had been in storage since 2014 so it did not have the latest PCV system and my friend told me to get a new intake since I had oil/metal parts flying around which I did. So all told with fluids and parts it was a $3k swap with me doing all the work.
I left all the aftermarket parts on, had Lund send me a tune and I drove the car from San Diego to Phoenix with no issues. When I had the turbo off we gave it a good looking over and there wasn’t any oil so the seals should be good.
I am 99% convinced that the gutting of the PVC led to my issues as the CC could not keep up with the additional oil being sent through the system and I know I had oil in the combustion chamber which reduced the octane level so something unacceptable under boost…and in no way is this Lund or UPR’s fault, both companies have been outstanding with troubleshooting my issue, helping me in any way they can and providing excellent support.
So there you have it, pics are there, I have been told that unofficially Ford knows they have an oiling issue with the EB engine family, hence the PCV redesign and the TSB for smoking engines that are stock…and breaking ring lands….if I had more time I would have taken it to Ford for warranty, they probably would have said no since I was tuned but my rebuttal would have been how does a tune affect oil in the combustion chamber? I am not an idiot nor is this my first rodeo so it would have been a fight that who know how it would have turned out….I have thought about calling Ford and speaking to someone about this, they have my old engine as I had to turn it in it’s not as though they can’t tear it apart and see for themselves….
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