Camshaft Position Sensor DTC

redfirepearlgt

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pin 44 is orange on sensor 2
pin 45 is darkblue with orange stripe on sensor 1

Sensor one is on the left side and sensor two is on the right side as you stand in front of the radiator looking in at the engine. Bank one is left head and bank 2 is the right head. The manuals refer to them as right and left with reference from the sitting position inside the car.

This is with reference directly from the 2005 paper wiring diagrams I have here on my desk, december 2004 issue.
 

redfirepearlgt

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The pinout is with respect to female connection on the PCM. The position will be the opposite if you are probing on the connector of the wiring harness on the male side (mirror effect).
 

StephenEbling

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pin 44 is orange on sensor 2
pin 45 is darkblue with orange stripe on sensor 1

Sensor one is on the left side and sensor two is on the right side as you stand in front of the radiator looking in at the engine. Bank one is left head and bank 2 is the right head. The manuals refer to them as right and left with reference from the sitting position inside the car.

This is with reference directly from the 2005 paper wiring diagrams I have here on my desk, december 2004 issue.

I understand - the orange pin shows connectivity on the problem sensor but the grey with red stripe wire on bank 2 is the one that I'm concerned with (I think)

Shouldn't i be able to trace that back and find the fault?
 

redfirepearlgt

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I am sorry about this. I stand corrected. The PCM is providing reference voltage from the orange and DB/orange wires to each sensor and the sensors sink that to a PCM sig/rtn to generate a change of state when the wheel tab is seen. The grey/red stripe is the sig/rtn. What has been done in checking continuity of the orange and db/or wires so far is good. The establishes that they are not compromised. The paper prints give better indication of which direction the signal is traveling than the online prints which are slightly different.

SOoooooooooooo...The gray/red stripe wires land at S106 with a large bundle of other signal returns. The shared signal return is at C175E pin 58. If you check continuity of each of these wires to pin 58 of the same C175E I provided the pinout on you can verify the integrity of these two wires. If you have already done this and find an issue on one, then we need to locate splice S106. S106 splice is located in the wiring harness that goes around the back side of the engine. See the photo from my Ford manual for reference.

6rj5j4h.jpg
 

StephenEbling

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Okay - did some testing...

Bank 1 (non-problem side) shows connectivity with little to no resistance to pin 58

Bank 2 (problem side) shows no connectivity to pin 58

I assume now I need to find the fault...

What do I do if I find the failure point? Obviously if its torn I can solder it back but what if it isnt so obvious?

To keep it simple, this car was involved in an accident and the drivers side (bank 2) was hit. This is exactly where the sensor that is throwing a code is located.

I would think the damage to the wire would likely be right near the connector rather than all the way behind the engine...

Link to build/rebuild video to see damage/build:
Stephen's Mustang GT Convertible Build: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOLd4xj9_JEFyMET76s2S3GjGOiduauok
 

redfirepearlgt

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You could always run a new wire from S106 splice to the bank 2 connector. There are two ways you can proceed here IMHO.

1.) I would open up the wiring harness on the back side of the engine and locate S106. It will be a splice point with quite a few gray/red stripe wires splices together. Then locate the gray/redstripe wire going to bank 2. Re-verify the wire is open from S106 to the sensor connector. THEN as an added comfort verify (with key off) continuity from S106 back to C175e pin 58. Then all you have to do is run a new wire from S106 back to the connector on bank 2 and verify and you should be done.

2.) Jumper a wire over from bank 1 gray/red wire to the dead gray/red wire on bank two. Clear the codes, start the car and verify the codes stay cleared. Then run a new wire from S106 splice point in the harness on the back side of the engine back to the connector on bank 2 sensor and again you should be golden.

Either way it sounds to me like you have an open wire between the connector on bank 2 and S106 splice point. If the connection between the splice point and C175e pin 58 were bad, you'd have a TON of codes in addition to the codes you have and they would include oil temp sensor,cylinder head temp, O2 sensor, fuel rail transducer sensor, ans IAT from the MAF sensor related issues as well. S106 splices the reference voltage from pin 58 of C175e to all of these devices.

Good job!!!!
 

StephenEbling

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You could always run a new wire from S106 splice to the bank 2 connector. There are two ways you can proceed here IMHO.

1.) I would open up the wiring harness on the back side of the engine and locate S106. It will be a splice point with quite a few gray/red stripe wires splices together. Then locate the gray/redstripe wire going to bank 2. Re-verify the wire is open from S106 to the sensor connector. THEN as an added comfort verify (with key off) continuity from S106 back to C175e pin 58. Then all you have to do is run a new wire from S106 back to the connector on bank 2 and verify and you should be done.

2.) Jumper a wire over from bank 1 gray/red wire to the dead gray/red wire on bank two. Clear the codes, start the car and verify the codes stay cleared. Then run a new wire from S106 splice point in the harness on the back side of the engine back to the connector on bank 2 sensor and again you should be golden.

Either way it sounds to me like you have an open wire between the connector on bank 2 and S106 splice point. If the connection between the splice point and C175e pin 58 were bad, you'd have a TON of codes in addition to the codes you have and they would include oil temp sensor,cylinder head temp, O2 sensor, fuel rail transducer sensor, ans IAT from the MAF sensor related issues as well. S106 splices the reference voltage from pin 58 of C175e to all of these devices.

Good job!!!!
I cant thank you enough for your help!

The testing went great - let it warm up - shut it off - started again about 10 times and no CEL!

Before when I would restart it a single time it would show the CEL.

I will now track down the specific wire at the splice point in the rear of the motor and solder in a new one.

I dont have a huge amount of subscribers yet on YouTube but I am going to give you credit in the wiring fix video I will post once it is fully finished.

I will report back once I get the harness opened up and the new wire in place.

Thank you again - these forums are blessed to have a knowledgable and helpful person such as yourself!

-Stephen
 

redfirepearlgt

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No problem! No need for any credit. It was fun helping out. I learned, you learned, and hopefully this will help others as well.

NOTE - When you solder the wire in, make sure you clean the solder joint with Isopropyl alcohol before you put the heat to the heat shrink. The rosin core in the solder does not burn away completely when soldering and will begin to work at the solder joint with time if it is not cleaned. just an acid brush with the bristles cut down to about 1/2 - 3/4" long and dip it in the cap with a littlealcohol in it and scrub away. Make sure it dries before heating the shrink tube or it could ignite. If you already know this you are miles ahead of the average person who does solder work.
 

StephenEbling

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Everything worked out! I am taking it for the inspection soon.

I will post the wiring video soon!

Thank you again!
 

myfriendsmustang

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Necro this topic because it's probably going to help us solve a similar problem, 2010 GT with a salvage engine and CAI that requires running a tune which we have in it, i checked the baro for the correct elevation and so i know the MAF is correct. I doubt it's the tune for a generic P0340 and related codes.

We had the AC ripple problem on the alt, replaced it and cleared the codes, ran great on the memory program but as soon as she goes into closed loop and starts using sensors it goes south and throws the cam code. it's definitely better on the new alt in open loop, but now it's time to chase wires i think... we've had the engine out of this endless times so the chance of a wire being the problem is high.

a while ago the main ground to the bottom of the block down by the starter/engine mount was pinched between the starter and the block, it'd intermittently ground, was interesting... we missed that somehow but i got it on and put it on a starter bolt, i've now read it's suppose to be on an engine mount, does it matter? seems not as it solved like 15 codes but the cam sensor will not resolve.

what i'm looking for is photos or links to the 2009/2010 harness or another model year if they're equal to track down these pin numbers and grounds in this topic.

possibly related if a ground, getting a flaky intermittent door/trunk ajar idiot light on the dash, it'll come on sort of faint then go away like a bulb have in a socket, looks like a bad ground.

i've found this link, but looking for photos of the pins and locations, the photos that were in this topic are no longer available, appreciate any help. https://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40

....fwiw the intake runner control valves had an entire busted run of 4 wires on it as well, some kid had it before us so this is a cat and mouse game with wires, should've probably got a new harness.
 
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