Well... If you're serious...
AFR at WOT should never be in the 14's, even Naturally Aspirated. NA your target AFR should be 12.5 roughly. FI should be 11.5. At idle/cruise and most other light load conditions, 14.7 is the target AFR, though it's quite common to see a wide range as the throttle is dynamic. If your WOT AFR isn't 11.0-11.5, your tuner should be fired.
11-12psi is definitely pushing the limits if you're on stock 3v internals, particularly on a PD blower. The instant torque is usually what does OE bottom ends in, of course the power is brutal through the entire powerband. About 500ft/lbs is borrowed time for a stock 3v, IMO. Really, anything above 400ft/lbs will shake loose any internal flaws, or make a knock hiccup a catastrophic failure. A solid tune is what keeps most stock 3v's alive between 400-500ft/lbs. But it only takes that one time for shit to go south.
178 degrees is far too hot for charge temps. Add a lean AFR, and you have the combination for pre-ignition and the end of your engine. Even with good AFR's, a hot air charge can still knock if it's beyond the fuel's stability. I would highly recommend making your intercooler setup a top priority after you get the engine straightened out. Would also recommend looking into E85, or a Water/Meth kit. Some folks knock (no pun intended) water/meth, but it's a great alternative if E85 isn't readily available. Water/meth is great for those with a street beast that just needs some help staying cool with an octane kick. It can be a powerful tool for a track car as well. I wouldn't do both, but one should be looked into.
Given the extra information, assuming accurate, I'd say the possibility of a spun bearing is very strong. I would think piston damage is a possibility, but as I said previously, a dead hole will throw a CEL as a misfire. Then again, I've had a buddy with a dead hole we chased thinking it was a fueling issue, turned out his coil wasn't plugged in all the way. Stranger things.