Swap for crate engine

My 07 is getting a little long in the tooth. Engine is running smooth today but I'd rather spend another 35k in repairs then replace the car when something does go wrong.

Has any one ever swapped for a 5.0 crate engine with out giving up any creature comforts?

Not worth the effort for a street car

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/coyote-swap-help-electrical-help.91629/

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/whats-needed-for-a-5-0-swap.39946/

Coyote swaps sound cool, but they're expensive and not the stroll in the park that you're led to believe mainly because of the wiring and electrics.
It's much easier and cheaper to rebuild the 4.6 3v with forged rods/pistons and add a supercharger kit. Worried about the TR3650 grenading? No problem. Just swap in a TR6060 from a GT500.

Yes. The only thing I don't have working is cruise control because I'm running the Ford Control pack strategy to bypass PATS.

stkjock said:

Not worth the effort for a street car

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/coyote-swap-help-electrical-help.91629/

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/whats-needed-for-a-5-0-swap.39946/

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Doesn't AM (and probably others) have a Coyote kit that includes at least enough electronics for the engine to run?

At some point, rebuildable 4.6 castings may become harder to find than they were back in 2010 - 2012. Don't think anybody is casting any new ones.


Norm

his question was about giving up comforts, AFAIK, there's now way to direct swap and keep all the electronics working.

I'm sure that FRPP now makes a 5.0 crate eng that drops into the 05-10 cars. I saw it listed on their site quite a while back. It was a new item at the time.

You can have everything working just fine, but there is lots of wiring work. The biggest issue is getting it to pass smog. If you install an instrument cluster from an 11-13, PATS will work and all the smog stuff will work and you can run a bone stock PCM. Without the cluster, you will have to bypass PATS. PATS is not an issue, several vendors offer a PATS delete service but you have to send the PCM out. The issue I ran into without the said cluster is a P0460 code. The PCM is not getting a fuel level input, which comes from the cluster. My tuner turned off the P460 code so I don't get a CEL.

This swap is by no means easy. But it is not impossible either.

DJGietzen said:

...but I'd rather spend another 35k in repairs then replace the car when something does go wrong.

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I go back and forth about what to do with my car regularly. As of late I am coming back to exactly what Dino mentions below... but with a T56XL:

Dino Dino Bambino said:

It's much easier and cheaper to rebuild the 4.6 3v with forged rods/pistons and add a supercharger kit. Worried about the TR3650 grenading? No problem. Just swap in a TR6060 from a GT500.

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My big thing is reliability. I am not looking to build an all out brawler, but a turn-key driveable 550-600whp setup (if it exists). I thought of trying to do a "budget build" on m stock motor, but my research says it never really turns out to be "budget". Besides, I would want someone who knows what they are doing to put it together, rather than a fun project for me to try out.

So what do I/we do? Buy a built short block... or complete long block? If so, who's? My diff and axles have already been upgraded, so the T56XL with driveshaft and built motor would basically get me where I want to be.

The simplest method is the best. Forged OEM spec engine, turn the boost up, and add fuel. 3v 281cid is more than capable of 600whp. You can cut some cost if you use coyote rods, but a set of manley H beam rods aren't a terrible price. (Though coyoted rev higher and have push more than 600whp on their rods at half the cost.)

702GT said:

The simplest method is the best. Forged OEM spec engine, turn the boost up, and add fuel. 3v 281cid is more than capable of 600whp. You can cut some cost if you use coyote rods, but a set of manley H beam rods aren't a terrible price. (Though coyoted rev higher and have push more than 600whp on their rods at half the cost.)

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When I was reading about the potential of the 3v heads I started thinking abut the 3v potential more and more. The Parnelli Jones edition is a stroker and pumps out 400hp to the wheel. My question is how much labor will run me to pull the motor out so the block can receive the forged internals? I'm looking for a bare block online but cannot find. The awesome cats at Livernois reported getting 370 to the wheels with a stage 3 race port.

PJ at 400 whp?

TheGhostTiger said:

When I was reading about the potential of the 3v heads I started thinking abut the 3v potential more and more. The Parnelli Jones edition is a stroker and pumps out 400hp to the wheel. My question is how much labor will run me to pull the motor out so the block can receive the forged internals? I'm looking for a bare block online but cannot find. The awesome cats at Livernois reported getting 370 to the wheels with a stage 3 race port.

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If you're looking to make NA power, you really should consider the big bore boss block. It's as close to coyote a 3v gets for making NA power. Look up BruceH's big bore builds, he's done it NA and boosted.

*Edit: By close to coyote, I meant as far as doing an engine upgrade that has similar potential without the coyote headache. Every motor swap has its own headache. Even OE spec'd builds.

TheGhostTiger said:

The Parnelli Jones edition is a stroker and pumps out 400hp to the wheel.

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No, it's 400 hp and 390 ft-lbs at the crank SAE.

If you want to do a swap, why not just get a GT 500 5.4L. Everything will work with just a few changes and headers and everything already exist. You can make reliable 600rwhp easily with the 5.4.

↑↑↑ OP only has 13 posts to date, which doesn't give much more to go on than Post #1 here. But what I'm not seeing does suggest that big power isn't his goal. Might only be to get a little more power or easy rpm capability while getting away from the early 3-valve spark plugs.

Odd as this may sound to some of you, not everybody wants forced induction.


Norm

I bet OP's car has 100,000 miles.

Friend of mine has a S197 4.6 with about 3x that. Still running great.

Norm Peterson said:

Odd as this may sound to some of you, not everybody wants forced induction.

Norm

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What!?

Boost is like sex:

You know it's cool before you get it

Once you get it, you want more of it

You want all your friends to get it too

But, you always want to have more than everyone else

Norm Peterson said:

↑↑↑ OP only has 13 posts to date, which doesn't give much more to go on than Post #1 here. But what I'm not seeing does suggest that big power isn't his goal. Might only be to get a little more power or easy rpm capability while getting away from the early 3-valve spark plugs.

Odd as this may sound to some of you, not everybody wants forced induction.


Norm

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The 05-10 engs are dogs in oem format. Vorshlag claims 447 rwhp with just a 93 tune and LT's..on their 2011 car they had. Most guys with 05-10 engs barely manage 440 rwhp with most blower setups. Much more than 450 rwhp..and the poor 281 ci eng is on borrowed time... the oem rods are pretzel sticks.

Ford should make a drop in HD replacement eng for the 05-10 cars.

Nothing wrong with the 4.6, it can make insane power. But if you don't want to turn a wrench as far, the 5.0 will make more with less. Still a few friends with turbo 2v 4.6's the coyote's just can't fuck with. Helps they weigh 1,000lbs less than the new coyote dreadnaughts, LOL. But the look they get when a 2v stomps on their dicks, LOL. Much butt-hurt and ego-deflation. Somebody always has more bigger/better/faster/money under the hood, ya never know when that turbo volvo wagon is really a sleeper baiting you to your doom and embarrassment. Anything can be fast for the right price. If you 5.0 swap, do it because you love turning a wrench, not because it has "potential". All swaps/builds are financial blackholes. If you buy a Mustang and decide to modify, you just entered the money pit. When I had mine, I swooned for the 'yote too, all that power and it could still get mid-high 20's fuel economy, lol. Ultimately, I saved shit tons of money sticking with the pit I already had my money thrown into and lived just fine without the 5.0 at 420-480whp (91 or e85/9psi) never once broke a sweat over the stock rods... because I had coyote rods ready to go in just in case. Do what you enjoy with your car, but if you're chasing power, E/T's, or lap times, all builds/swaps are headaches/money pits. Just make sure it's the one you want.