RWHP with a Kenne Bell Stage 1

In my experience going down a pulley size that gives you 2 psi more at your level will work just fine. But I couldn't do this if your bottom end is stock. If you rattle a stock motoryou may only know because you blow it. With a built motor its able to with stand something like that and be ok.

My suggestion is if you want to be faster is remove weight.

Or put in electric water pump on your car. From my understanding it doesn't make the motor work harder, but frees up power. They cost around $300.

Marble said:

In my experience going down a pulley size that gives you 2 psi more at your level will work just fine. But I couldn't do this if your bottom end is stock. If you rattle a stock motoryou may only know because you blow it. With a built motor its able to with stand something like that and be ok.

My suggestion is if you want to be faster is remove weight.

Or put in electric water pump on your car. From my understanding it doesn't make the motor work harder, but frees up power. They cost around $300.

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So, honest question . . . you really think going up 30 HP from 440-450 will be that dangerous, given I don't track the car, i.e. don't regularly push it to its max?

Depends on the tune. People have blown engines with less hp and crappy tunes. People have run 480 rwhp reliably with good tunes. I ran a DOB setup at 465 rwhp with 12 psi on a Mustang Dyno, tuned at that power level, reliably for 20,000 miles. That said it had about 16 degrees total timing in it, and tune pulled timing as IAT rose. So it was unlikely I was getting full power most of the time.

If you decide to do it without retuning at least get some Torco or Boostane octane booster (not the 5 dollar crap) and set the rev limit at 6000.

Marble said:

Or put in electric water pump on your car. From my understanding it doesn't make the motor work harder, but frees up power. They cost around $300.

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I did this for about 15 minutes. With urethane motor mounts, that Meizere pump transmits a lot noise into the cabin, so much that even if it does add 20 hp (which based off Engine Masters testing, it doesnt) it is not worth it on the street.

In the old 5.0 magazine, they tested the Meizere water pump on a stock 2010 mustang. It made another 3 rwhp. That baffled em, since the same Meizere water pump on previous 05-09 cars freed up 13-15 rwhp. The oem water pump on the 2010 is more eff than the pump on the 05-09 cars.

ChewyR said:

I did this for about 15 minutes. With urethane motor mounts, that Meizere pump transmits a lot noise into the cabin, so much that even if it does add 20 hp (which based off Engine Masters testing, it doesnt) it is not worth it on the street.

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How loud is pump in the cabin? Is it so bad that its really annoying and you get tired of hearing it? Or is it audible but over time you get used to it and its not really that bad?

I've considered buying the Meizere but its $580 for the one with better bearings for the supercharger belt load. The cost alone has made me hesitant. And if its also annoying loud, then I'll just stop even considering it.

One last thing on Kenne Bell hp numbers, they always run to 6500 rpm, so there's another 10-30 hp over stopping at 6200 rpm.

Probably personal preference, the urethane mounts transmit more noise in general. For me it sounded like a speaker with a bad ground, and after one drive I wasn't having it. I'm kinda picky about weird noises, gear whine, exhaust drone, etc.

thanks, i'm with you on the weird noises, so i'll just give up on the meziere

Dino Dino Bambino said:

Sounds like a load of BS from KB to me. I'd say 440-450rwhp with around 9psi of boost sounds about right on stock manifolds. Add another ~20rwhp or so with LT headers.

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LT's won't make one more HP with his combo. You need to be up in the 700+hp range for LT's to matter.

,

Department Of Boost said:

LT's won't make one more HP with his combo. You need to be up in the 700+hp range for LT's to matter.

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Hey, have you tested this exact scenario before/ after @around 600?? I was about to start looking for good headers this winter. Not much else I can add to my combination!

If you haven't I may. I should have free access to a dyno soon.

1950StangJump$ said:

So, honest question . . . you really think going up 30 HP from 440-450 will be that dangerous, given I don't track the car, i.e. don't regularly push it to its max?

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I was running around on stock motor with 490rwhp for years, and would just add some 100 octane when I went to the track which was probably 2-3 times a month, but on the street it was crappy California 91 octane. If your tune is good, that extra 30hp isn't going to hurt a thing.

If you decide to go with the next size smaller pulley, should really need to retune the car. I ran around for 6 years on stock motor at 10-11 psi but you need to have enough fuel and proper timing. Like stated above if you want to go faster loose some weight much cheaper than any thing else.
I would suggest stay stock pulley and enjoy car. Till you ready to do built motor.

Not popular but I'm now build motor on 3.2 KB at 18-19 psi just a street car, that is a ball to drive. The only challenges I had to conquer were suspension and tires. Just to make to more fun running Tremic XL and 4.10 gears with 28 inch Mickeys.

Department Of Boost said:

LT's won't make one more HP with his combo. You need to be up in the 700+hp range for LT's to matter.

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How did you arrive at that conclusion ? Ceramic coated LT's, + high flow cats, was the one mod that made a huge difference on my 2010. That's with a M90 + 5.8 psi boost, all oem. The car had previously been tuned by VMP for a 94 tune. After the LT's were installed, the difference in tq across the entire rpm range was blatantly obvious. AFR however, was a bit lean, so had VMP re-tweak the tune slightly. No difference in power, just the afr was optimized. 425 rwhp with 5.8 psi boost and oem 2.875" pulley is nothing to sneeze at. Only other eng mods were the bigger FRPP twin 62mm TB, K+N panel filter, 94 fuel used, ( no ethanol in it)..and 7 bar upper grille installed..which eliminated 2 x 90 deg bends into the 'snorkel' that in turns feeds air into the oem air box. Folks with the same config as mine, but with the smaller 2.49" pulley, ( 8.8 psi).. and also vanes chopped out from the oem air box lid, all saw 460 rhhp. Chopping the vanes out from airbox lid is good for 7 rwhp, when the smaller 2.55 / 2.49 pulley used.
I did notice that the boost increased by aprx .5 psi, when out on the hwy, after the 7 bar upper grille was installed. Increases to aprx 6.3 psi, when > 50 mph.

Pentalab said:

In the old 5.0 magazine, they tested the Meizere water pump on a stock 2010 mustang. It made another 3 rwhp.

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That car already had underdrive pulleys so that's why the HP gain was smaller. With stock pulleys the gain is more like 7rwhp. Removing the drivebelt altogether (with EWP in place) adds ~16rwhp, but I'd only suggest that strictly for a 1/4 mile pass.

Building my motor is a little bit off . . . literally part of my retirement plan in a few years. In the meantime, just looking to tweak current performance while I slowly build the car up . . . I'm starting to feel the pull to do the Magnum XL

1950StangJump$ said:

Building my motor is a little bit off . . . literally part of my retirement plan in a few years. In the meantime, just looking to tweak current performance while I slowly build the car up . . . I'm starting to feel the pull to do the Magnum XL

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The magnum xl made a huge difference for me. Shifting and gear engagement is so much nicer.

hockeygod said:

The magnum xl made a huge difference for me. Shifting and gear engagement is so much nicer.

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So, right now, I have the TR3650 with a new Spec Stage 2 clutch and MGW shifter.

I literally have never had a grind. But, the required shift "effort" in every gear is higher than I like. It slows shifts when trying to go fast and makes just the general driving experience, even when only putzing around, less enjoyable.

1950StangJump$ said:

So, honest question . . . you really think going up 30 HP from 440-450 will be that dangerous, given I don't track the car, i.e. don't regularly push it to its max?

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Yes I do. And keep in mind the dyno you are on is only a good tool to use as a comparison. You may read 50 hp up or down and another dyno.

Your motor depends on perfect fuel, perfect mechanics, stable air temps in and outside the motor and the luck of pushing a motor well beyond where it was supposed to be ran. So it's up to you. If you have the skills to replace a motor and the funds, I would build before it blows. But if you do not have the skills, save up around $7,000-10,000 and let it RIP knowing you will have a big bill to pay for eventually .

If you really want to know how much power you're car is making, take it to a track. Do not worry too much about your ET, but rather your trap speed. At your power level I would guess you would trap 116-118.

1950StangJump$ said:

So, right now, I have the TR3650 with a new Spec Stage 2 clutch and MGW shifter.

I literally have never had a grind. But, the required shift "effort" in every gear is higher than I like. It slows shifts when trying to go fast and makes just the general driving experience, even when only putzing around, less enjoyable.

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I would guess the clutch is the culprit there. Those particular clutches are known for that. When you do swap transmissions, get a really good twin disc and you'll have a different experience.